Indian actress Anjana Sukhani showcases a bridal lehenga with Gota patti embroidery, which is used extensively in South Asian weddings

Lehenga or lehnga or langa (Hindi: लहंगा Urdu: لہنگا lahangā, Punjabi: ਲਹਿੰਗਾ lēhēṅgā, Gujarati: લેહગા lēhagā, Bengali: লেহেঙ্গা lehengā, Telugu: లంగా Kannada: ಲಂಗ laṅgā), Ghagra or gagra (Hindi: घाघरा Gujarati: ઘાઘરા Urdu: گھاگھرا ghāghrā, Punjabi: ਘਾਗਰਾ ghāgrā), also Chaniya (Gujarati: ચણિયા) Pavadai (Tamil: பாவாடை) and Lacha (Malayalam: ലഹങ്ക)[1] is a form of full ankle-length skirt worn by women[2] from the Indian subcontinent which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is worn as the bottom portion of a Gagra choli or Langa Voni. It is secured at the waist and leaves the lower back and midriff bare.[3] In India and Pakistan various types of traditional embroidery work are done on lehenga, with Gota patti embroidery being one of popular types for the festivals and weddings.

History

The ancient version of the skirt or Ghagri evolved from Bhairnivasani, which in turn evolved from the Antriya when stitched on one side became tabular and was worn gathered together at the waist, and held by a girdle. This was one of the earliest forms of a stitched skirt. It was worn using drawstring or nada. Although used synonymously since ancient times, unlike the ghagra, is reserved for special occasions.

During the 10th century, Lehenga choli became popular as an attire amongst women mainly in North India.[4] It evolved through fine craftsmanship with the arrival of Mughals in India and their subsequent rule from the 12th to the 18th century.

Variations

The Ghagri was a narrow skirt six feet long the same length as original antariya. This style can still be seen worn by Jain nuns in India.

A-Line

A-Line lehenga has A-line hem. As per name its suggests resembling letter 'A', which is tighter on the waist and flares out at the bottom. This is a very versatile type of lehenga as suitable for hourglass and pear-shaped body types.

Flared

Flared aka Circular is kind of lehenga has several of volume and pleats. This style most suitable for all body types but mainly recommended for round and rectangular shape.

Double flared

Double flared lehenga has double sometimes triple or as much flare you want to use, which increase the volume of lehenga.

Mermaid

Mermaid aka Fishtail, Trumpet lehenga looks like fishtail; with tight till knees then flared from calves. This kind of design type usually suitable for hourglass and Pear-shaped body shape.

Panelled

Panelled lehenga has several horizontal panels of fabrics attached altogether create the flare of the lehenga. The volume of the flare is increased for too many panels. These panels can be same or different depending upon one’s choice, which are suitable for Inverted and rectangular body shapes.

Sharara

Sharara aka Pavadai, Langa Davani, Langa Voni, and sometimes Half Saree; is a kind of lehenga will have two big palazzos or pants in the bottom. Traditionally in Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka, it is also known as Langa and part of another traditional dress Langa voni. This is typically worn in South India with dupatta wrapped around the waist and draped on the shoulder like saree.

Straight

This kind of lehenga have straight silhouette without any space for its pleats or gathers for fullness. Instead, side slit is provided for easy movement; even suitable for occasional wear and most appropriate for the Inverted triangle or rectangular T body shapes.

Trail

Trail lehenga using extra fabric making a trail at behind.

References

  1. ^ Fashions from India - Tom Tierney
  2. ^ "lehnga". OxfordDictionaries.com. Oxford University Press. 2018. Retrieved 2018-06-26.
  3. ^ Social Science a Textbook in History for Class IX as per New Syllabus - FK Publications
  4. ^ "The Indian Lehenga Choli". Utsavpedia. Retrieved 2018-06-24.