Ad-Dhahiriya is located in the far south of the West Bank, approximately 22 km south of Hebron and is considered the southern gate of the West Bank. It is built upon the ruins of the ancient Canaanite town of Goshen, where its ruler sultan Al Dhahir made the city a strategic location within his sultanate. It is from this Sultan that Ad-Dhahiriya derives its name. Ad-Dhahiriya is surrounded by the lands of Beersheba and Al Samu’a and the villages of Al-Burj, Deir Al-Asal, Beit Al-Rush and Dura, and has a population of nearly 40,000 people, though this figure rises to approximately 60,000 when including the surrounding villages according to the Palestinian Central Bureau of Statistics' figures from 2018. Ad-Dhahiriya urban center has an area of 15,198 dunums, according to the municipality's structural plan, while its surrounding areas include a total land area of 120,854 dunums which entails just over 70% of its historical area of 167,000 dunums. Al-Dahrieh is the third largest city within the governorate of Hebron following the cities of Hebron and Yatta and is the last major population center in the Southern West Bank.
History
Ad-Dhahiriya in the 1920s
Biblical connection, local traditions, archaeology
According to Conder and Kitchener, Ad-Dhahiriya was probably the site of the ancient biblical town of Debir.[3] They found the village undermined by caves. In the centre of Ad-Dhahiriya was a tower, which appeared to be from before the Crusader era, possibly from early Christian or Roman period.[4]
Local tradition, supported by archaeology, have that ad-Dhahiriya was founded by Baibars (1223/1228–1277).[5] Another oral tradition suggests that ad-Dhahiriya was founded after the 16th century.[6]
Ottoman period
In the various Ottomancensus in the sixteenth century, Darusiyya was noted as located in the nahiya of Halil. In the 932 AH/1525-1526 CE census, the villagers also cultivated the fields at Bayt Hawran. In 961/1553-1554, it was reported as derelict, while in 970/1562-1563 and 1005/1596-1597, it was reported as a village.[7]
In 1838, Edward Robinson noted edh-Dhoheriyeh as a Muslim village, located southwest of el-Khalil (Hebron).[8][9] Robinson further remarked: "A castle or fortress apparently once stood here; the remains of a square tower are still to be seen, now used as a dwelling; and the door-ways of many hovels are of hewn stone with arches. It would seem to have been one of the line of small fortresses, which apparently once existed all along the southern border of Palestine. The village contains, according to the government census, one hundred full-grown men; of whom thirty-eight had been taken at three separate times for the Egyptian army. Though half in ruins, it is yet rich in flocks and herds, and has at least hundred camels. The inhabitants are Hudhr, or townsmen; and belonging to the party called Keis. Most of the villagers in this quarter are of this party; as well as some of the Bedawin."[10][11]
In 1856, a Scottish clergyman, Horatius Bonar described the village and its ruined castle: "Suddenly, at an abrupt elbow of the ravine, we are relieved by seeing the old castle, perched on its rocky height well in the setting sun; the poor village, which seems to hang about it, with its square yellow huts, rather helps, at this distance, to improve its appearance, and to give dignity to its towers and broken ramparts. From this point it looks much bolder and substantial than it is; not so isolated as El-Aujeh, which we passed some days ago, but well-set upon yon craggy perch. Like most of its fellow castles in the east and border "peels" in the north, it has seen better days, and has at one time, been a noble stronghold for Romans, or Crusaders, or Turks..."[12]
In the early 1860s, ad-Dhahiriya and other places were temporarily abandoned because of a conscription drive. Then, in the early 1870s, ad-Dhahiriya was left empty again when it was attacked by Bedouin allies of nearby Dura.[13]
In 1863 Victor Guérin visited the place, and found that many of the men had fled, mostly further south in tents, in order to avoid conscription. He noted one building, measuring sixteen steps on each side which was built in beautiful stone. It contained several vaulted chambers, and was the home of one of the sheikhs of the village.
Several other private houses were also built with fine materials, from old buildings; some even seemed to date, either entirely or only in their lower courses from the Roman period.[14]
An Ottoman village list of about 1870 indicated 57 houses and a population of 206, though the population count included men, only.[15][16]
According to the PEF's Survey of Western Palestine, (SWP), the village had a population of 300-400 in 1874. In 1877, it was deserted due to "encroachment of the Arabs into the country of the fellahin".[3]
British Mandate era
In 1921, a violent conflict erupted between ad-Dhahiriya and the nearby town of Dura. It was resolved through the imposition of a hefty fine of 20,000 Egyptian pounds on the "brigands" of Dura.[13]
In the 1945 statistics the population of Ad-Dhahiriya was 3,760, all Muslims,[19] who owned 60,585 dunams of land according to an official land and population survey.[20] 166 dunams were plantations and irrigable land, 54,205 for cereals,[21] while 284 dunams were built-up (urban) land.[22]
In 1996, the Palestinian Authority appointed a municipal council. In 2004, a 13-member council was elected with paid employees.[25]
The primary health care facilities for the municipality are designated by the Ministry of Health as level 3.[26]
According to the Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA), the entrance to the village was closed by an IDF earth mound on 14 April 2005, forcing all Palestinians in the area to travel via Dura.[27][needs update]
Economy
Ad-Dhahiriya's location has made it a commercial center for more than one hundred thousand residents of the Negev, in addition to being a central gathering point for workers who work in the city of Beersheba within the Green Line, from the surrounding southern West Bank areas. According to the records of the municipality, over 1040 commercial licenses have been issued to professionals and organizations provide a wide range of goods and services, including a comprehensive market to meet the needs of citizens. It is also the home to one of the most important livestock markets in the Palestinian territories.
Ad-Dhahiriya's workforce is composed of 68.6% of its population, of which 52% work within the borders of the Green Line, 17% in official government capacities, 15% in agriculture, 11% in trade and 5% in the manufacturing industry.
Culture
The old town of Ad-Dhahiriya is considered an important site of historical heritage, consisting of 972 structures of historical architectural significance, representing 2.5% of all such buildings within Palestine. Initiatives from donors and the municipality have restored several historical buildings and courtyards. They have invested services and centers for tourists. The most prominent landmarks in Ad-Dhahiriya is the building known as "Al Khawkha", a compound in the old town. Today it has become a center named after Fawzi Pasha, a former leader of the Ottoman Army who constructed a fort with buildings characterized by their distinct architecture of bows and stripes. Also, there are rock wells and caves exhibiting harmonious geometric architecture. In addition to the old town, a number of archaeological sites exist in the villages and hamlets surrounding Ad-Dhahiriya dating back to various historical periods. The most notable of these include Kafr Jul, Al Ras, Deir Al Loz, Um Seer, Al Rahwa, Al Jabari, Aseelah, Badghosh, Deir Saeedah, Deir Al Hawa, Atir, Um Al Demnah, Tal Awad and Um Al Nakhla.
Anab Church
The Byzantine Anab Church (dating to 600 BC) is one of the rare churches that was discovered during the last fifteen years in Palestine. The Church is a rectangular basilica, with its length from east to west being twice the width from north to south, with a space of 700 squared meters. The mosaic floors of the Church need to be renovated, and the road to the Church has to be paved.
Sport
The people of Ad-Dhahiriya are united by their love for sports, especially football. The town's football team, Shabab Al-Dhahiriya SC, which is known as the Deers of the South, is one of the best teams on the national level. It was established in 1974 by a group of young amateurs and became a nationally recognized club that won several national championships, most notable of which were: West Bank Cup (1983), Palestinian Union Cup (2005), Abu Ammar Cup (2012, 2015),Palestine Cup (2012, 2014), as well as the recent Jawwal cup, in addition to several other formal and informal titles and championships.
Amusement park
The municipality had erected Abu Kharrouba park in the southwest part of the city, on an area exceeding 20 dunams, which was a landfill site in the past. In 2015, the municipality established a self-funded amusement park, the first of its kind in the region, which the municipality develops continuously.
^Government of Palestine, Department of Statistics, 1945, p. 23
^Government of Palestine, Department of Statistics. Village Statistics, April, 1945. Quoted in Hadawi, 1970, p. 50Archived 4 June 2011 at the Wayback Machine
^Government of Palestine, Department of Statistics. Village Statistics, April, 1945. Quoted in Hadawi, 1970, p. 93
^Government of Palestine, Department of Statistics. Village Statistics, April, 1945. Quoted in Hadawi, 1970, p. 143
^Government of Jordan, Department of Statistics, 1964, p. 13
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