Muhammad Ali Sadpara | |
|---|---|
محمد علی سدپارہ | |
 Sadpara in 2019 | |
| Born | 2 February 1976 Skardu, Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan |
| Disappeared | 5 February 2021 K2, Pakistan |
| Died | c. 5 February 2021 (aged 45) (officially presumed dead at K2 Bottleneck on 18 February 2021) |
| Body discovered | 26 July 2021[1] |
| Occupation | Mountaineer |
| Spouse | Fatima Sadpara |
| Children | Sajid Sadpara |
Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Urdu: محمد علی سدپارہ; 2 February 1976 – February 2021)[2] was a Pakistani high-altitude mountaineer. He was part of the team (which included Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon) that completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016.[3] Throughout his career, Sadpara successfully climbed a total of eight eight-thousanders, four of which he ascended in a single calendar year.[4]
Sadpara, along with his 21-year-old son Sajid (who had also climbed K2 in 2019), teamed up with Icelandic mountaineer John Snorri Sigurjónsson[5] and Chilean mountaineer Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto[6] for a joint ascent of K2, and left the highest camp on the evening of 4 February 2021. Sajid was later forced to descend due to an oxygen regulator malfunction,[7] leaving the other members of the team at the K2 Bottleneck, close to the summit. Sadpara, Sigurjónsson, and Prieto continued their ascent to K2's summit, but did not return by night as planned, and were declared missing on 5 February 2021.[8][9] A rescue mission with two Pakistan Army helicopters was organized on 6 February 2021 to search for the team.[10][11][12]
On 18 February 2021, Pakistani authorities announced that the three men were officially presumed dead, but the search for their remains would continue.[13][14] Sadpara's family also declared him as presumably dead on the same day.[15] On 26 July 2021, three bodies believed to be of the missing mountaineers were found on the slopes above Camp 4.[16][17] Sadpara's body was found around 300 meters (980 ft) below the K2 Bottleneck.[18] The bodies were found by a Madison Mountaineering Sherpa Team that was fixing ropes above the camp.[19] Sajid then retrieved the bodies of the three missing climbers including his father.[20]
Sadpara was born on 2 February 1976 in the village of Sadpara, located near Skardu in Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan.[21][22] He was the youngest of eleven children, and eight of his siblings did not survive childhood. He married his wife, Fatima, when he was 19 and had his first son, Sajid, shortly afterwards; he had a total of three children.[23] He completed his FA from a government college in Skardu[24] and was a member of his college football team.[25] He began his career as a high-altitude porter, serving as an assistant in mountain-climbing expeditions.[26] Like most other porters, Sadpara traversed the rugged Baltoro Glacier in flip-flops and castoff gear.[27]
Sadpara had successfully climbed eight of the 14 eight-thousanders on Earth. His first climb was Gasherbrum II, located in the Karakoram range.
| Mountain Name | Range | Country | Year of Ascent | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gasherbrum II | Karakoram | Pakistan / China | 2006 | |
| Golden Peak | Karakoram | Pakistan | 2006 | |
| Nanga Parbat | Himalayas | Pakistan | 2008 | |
| Muztagh Ata | Pamir | China | 2008 | |
| Nanga Parbat | Himalayas | Pakistan | 2009 | |
| Gasherbrum I | Karakoram | Pakistan / China | 2010 | |
| Nanga Parbat | Himalayas | Pakistan | 2016 | First winter ascent |
| Broad Peak | Karakoram | Pakistan / China | 2017 | |
| Nanga Parbat | Himalayas | Pakistan | 2017 | First autumn ascent |
| Pumori | Himalayas | Nepal / China | 2017 | |
| K2 | Karakoram | Pakistan / China | 2018 | |
| Lhotse | Himalayas | Nepal / China | 2019 | |
| Makalu | Himalayas | Nepal / China | 2019 | |
| Manaslu | Himalayas | Nepal | 2019 |
In 2015, Sadpara's team attempted to scale Nanga Parbat during wintertime and were unsuccessful; the team attempted another winter ascent in 2016 and successfully summited its peak, resulting in the first-ever winter ascent of the mountain. Sadpara had successfully ascended Nanga Parbat four times in his mountaineering career. In January 2018, Sadpara teamed up with Alex Txikon,[28] a Basque mountaineer, and unsuccessfully attempted to summit Mount Everest in Nepal during winter without any supplemental oxygen.[26][29][30]
In June 2018, he was enlisted by French speed climber Marc Batard[31] to undertake a five-year program known as "Beyond Mount Everest". They planned to summit Nanga Parbat, K2 and Mount Everest in 2019, 2021, and 2022, respectively.[32]