American rock climber, mountaineer, and author
Conrad Anker |
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| Born | (1962-11-27) November 27, 1962 (age 61)
California, United States |
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| Nationality | American |
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| Alma mater | University of Utah, Northumbria University |
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| Occupation(s) | Rock climber, mountaineer, author |
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| Spouse | Jennifer Lowe-Anker |
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Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the team leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018.[2] In 1999, he located George Mallory's body on Everest as a member of a search team looking for the remains of the British climber.[3] Anker had a heart attack in 2016 during an attempted ascent of Lunag Ri with David Lama. He was flown via helicopter to Kathmandu where he underwent emergent coronary angioplasty with a stent placed in his proximal left anterior descending artery.[4] Afterwards he retired from high altitude mountaineering, but otherwise he continues his work.[5] He lives in Bozeman, Montana.[6]
Ascents and expeditions
- 1987 Southeast Face Gurney Peak, Kichatna Mountains, Alaska Range, Alaska, United States. First Ascent (FA) with Seth 'S.T.' Shaw, Robert Ingle and James Garrett; summit attained May 8, 1987.[7]
- 1989 Northwest Face Mount Hunter, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA. FA with Seth 'S.T.' Shaw, summit attained July 3, 1989.[8]
- 1990 Rodeo Queen, Streaked Wall, Zion National Park, Utah, USA. FA with Mugs Stump.[9]
- 1992 East Buttress, Middle Triple Peak, Kichatna Spires, Alaska, USA, 2nd ascent with Seth Shaw.[10]
- 1992 Shunes Buttress, Red Arch Mountain, Zion National Park. FFA with Dave Jones.[11]
- 1994 Badlands (YDS VI 5.10 A3 WI4+, 1000m), Southeast Face, Torre Egger, Patagonia. Conrad Anker, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (USA), FA December 12, 1994.[12]
- 1997 The Northwest Face (V 5.8, 2100m), Peak Loretan, Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica (solo) Jan 15–16, 1997.[13]
- 1997 Rakekniven Peak, Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, FA with Alex Lowe and Jon Krakauer. Featured in the cover article of the February 1998 National Geographic Magazine.[14]
- 1997 Tsering Mosong, Latok II, Karakorum, Pakistan, FA with Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber and Toni Gutsch.[15]
- 1997 Continental Drift, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA. FA with Steve Gerberding and Kevin Thaw.[16]
- 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, Mount Everest, Nepal / Tibet.
- 1999 Shishapangma American Ski Expedition, Tibet. Survived a massive avalanche which killed climbing partner Alex Lowe and cameraman David Bridges.
- 2001 East Face of Vinson Massif, Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica. FA with Jon Krakauer. Featured on PBS series NOVA in February 2003.
- 2002 National Geographic expedition to make an unsupported crossing of the remote Changtang Plateau in Tibet with Galen Rowell, Rick Ridgeway and Jimmy Chin. The expedition was featured in National Geographic's April 2003 issue and documented in Rick Ridgeway's book The Big Open.[17]
- 2005 Southwest Ridge, Cholatse, Khumbu region, Nepal – summit attained with Kevin Thaw, John Griber, Kris Erickson and Abby Watkins on May 12, 2005.[18]
- 2007 Leads Altitude Everest Expedition 2007, joined by Leo Houlding, Jimmy Chin and Kevin Thaw, retracing Mallory's last steps on Everest. 2nd summit. First documented free climb of the Second Step.
- 2011 Shark's Fin, Meru Peak, FA with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk.[19]
- 2012 Leads "Everest Education Expedition" with National Geographic, The North Face, Montana State University and Mayo Clinic – 3rd summit, this time without oxygen. With Cory Richards, Sam Elias, Kris Erickson, Emily Harrington, Philip Henderson, Mark Jenkins, David Lageson PhD, Hilaree O'Neill. Mayo Team – Dr. Bruce Johnson, Landon Bassett, Derek Campbell, Amine Issa. Base Camp Support Andy Bardon, Travis Courthouts, Anjin Herndon, Max Lowe.[20]
Anker has also climbed notable routes in Yosemite Valley (California), Zion National Park (Utah), Baffin Island (Canada), and the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica.
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