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Kohistani Jumlo is a type of elaborately embroidered dress worn by northern Hazarewal women from the Hazara Division of Pakistan. The jumlo itself is made up of three parts: the bodice, skirt, and flared sleeves. The skirt is made with a number of triangular gores sewn together, resulting in a full appearance. The jumlo, as well as waistcoats and hats, is made with black cotton material that is heavily embroidered with silk threads. Jumlos are adorned with buttons, beads, and Pakistani coins; some more modern designs include a zipper in front. It is also accompanied by shalwar, paincha (embroidered cuffs) and chuprai (shawl).^[1]

Origins

Jumlos are made by the semi-nomadic Shin women belonging to the upper parts of Indus Kohistan. The Shin move their livestock around the Hazara Division according to the seasons, and leave their village homes during the summer months, as the mountainous landscape makes farming difficult.^[2] Shins can also be found in large amounts in Gilgit-Balistan, and especially in Chilas.^[3]

Cultural appropriation

The Kohistani jumlo has been incorrectly called a Nuristani dress, although it is not worn by Nuristani women.^[4] Kohistani jumlos made their way to Afghanistan through trade during the 1970s; it was around this time that is began to be called Nuristani. Many Afghan designers have replicated the Shin women's designs.^[5]

Designs

Jumlos feature symmetrical embroidery, traditionally in red, yellow, and white, on the sleeves and front of the bodice. Designs vary based on location, but may include roundels, stars, horns, floral diamonds, and chevrons.^[1]

Gallery