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((Short description|Method of turning fiber into thread))
((About|spinning yarn by hand|the "fidget spinner" toy|hand spinner))
((more citations needed|date = February 2019))
[[File:William-adolphe bouguereau the spinner.jpg|thumb|''The Spinner'' by [[William-Adolphe Bouguereau]] shows a woman hand-spinning using a drop [[Spindle (textiles)|spindle]].  Fibers to be spun are bound to a [[distaff]] held in her left hand.]]

'''Spinning''' is an ancient [[textile arts|textile art]] in which [[fibre crop|plant]], [[animal fibre|animal]] or [[synthetic fibre|synthetic]] [[fibre]]s are drawn out and twisted together to form [[yarn]]. For thousands of years, fibre was spun by hand using simple tools, the [[Spindle (textiles)|spindle]] and [[distaff]]. It was only with the invention of the [[spinning wheel]] in the [[Islamic world]] circa 1030, and its subsequent introduction to China, India and Europe in the [[High Middle Ages]], that the output of individual spinners dramatically increased. [[Mass production]] later arose in the 18th century with the beginnings of the [[Industrial Revolution]]. Hand-spinning remains a popular [[handicraft]].

Characteristics of spun yarn vary according to the material used, fibre length and alignment, quantity of fibre used, and degree of twist.

==History==
((main article|History of clothing and textiles))

The origins of spinning fibre to make string or yarn are lost in time, but [[archaeology|archaeological]] evidence in the form of representation of string skirts has been dated to the [[Upper Paleolithic]] era some 20,000 years ago.<ref>Barber, ''Women's Work'', 42–45.</ref> There has also been recent discovery of plied cord spun by Neanderthals and dating back 41,000-52,000 years.<ref>((Cite web |last=Hunt |first=Katie |date=2020-04-09 |title=World's oldest string of yarn shows Neanderthals were smarter than we thought |url=https://www.cnn.com/2020/04/09/world/oldest-yarn-neanderthals-scn/index.html |access-date=2022-12-14 |website=CNN |language=en))</ref> In the earliest type of spinning, tufts of animal hair or plant fibre are rolled down the thigh with the hand, and additional tufts are added as needed until the desired length of spun fibre is achieved. An advanced technique of thigh-spinning while simultaneously plying two singles is still used today in several cultures, such as with [[Chilkat weaving]] and [[Ravenstail weaving]]. In earlier practice of thigh-spinning, the fibre might be fastened to a stone which is twirled round until the yarn is sufficiently twisted, whereupon it is wound upon the stone and the process repeated over and over.

The next method of spinning yarn is with the [[spindle (textiles)|spindle]], a straight stick eight to twelve inches long on which the yarn is wound after twisting. At first the stick had a cleft or split in the top in which the thread was fixed. Later, a hook of bone was added to the upper end. The bunch of wool or plant fibres is held in the left hand. With the right hand the fibres are drawn out several inches and the end fastened securely in the slit or hook on the top of the spindle. A whirling motion is given to the spindle on the thigh or any convenient part of the body. The twisted yarn is then wound on to the upper part of the spindle. Another bunch of fibres is drawn out, the spindle is given another twirl, the yarn is wound on the spindle, and so on.<ref name="Watson" />

The [[distaff]] was used for holding the bunch of wool, [[flax]], or other fibres. It was a short stick, on one end of which was loosely wound the raw material. The other end of the distaff was held in the hand, under the arm or thrust in the girdle of the spinner. When held thus, one hand was left free for drawing out the fibres.<ref name="Watson" />

A spindle containing a quantity of yarn rotates more easily, steadily, and continues longer than an empty one; hence, the next improvement was the addition of a weight called a [[spindle whorl]] at the bottom of the spindle. These whorls are discs of [[wood]], [[rock (geology)|stone]], [[clay]], or [[metal]] with a hole in the centre for the spindle, which keep the spindle steady and promote its rotation. Spindle whorls appeared in the [[Neolithic]] era.<ref name="Watson">Watson, ''Textiles and Clothing'', pp. 3–14</ref><ref>Barber, ''Women's Work'', 37.</ref> They allowed the spinner to slowly lower, or drop, the spindle as it was spinning, thus allowing a greater quantity of yarn to be made before it had to be wound onto the spindle, hence the name "drop spindle," which is now most commonly used for the hand spindle with whorl attached. The Scottish drop spindle is called ''fairsaid'', ''farsadh'', or ''dealgan''.<ref>((cite web | title=The art of spinning in Scotland| website=Nationalclothing.org | date=3 May 2018 | url=https://nationalclothing.org/europe/16-scotland/276-the-art-of-spinning-in-scotland-scottish-drop-spindle-is-called-%E2%80%9Cdealgan%E2%80%9D.html))</ref>

((Gallery
|File:Woman_spinning-Sb_2834-IMG_0921-black.jpg|Woman spinning, fanned by attendant with whole fish on table, 700–550 BC from Neo-[[Elam]]ite period in [[Susa]]
|File:Woman spinning BM VaseD13.jpg|Woman spinning. Detail from an [[Ancient Greece|Ancient Greek]] attic white-ground [[oinochoe]], ca. 490&nbsp;BC, from [[Locri]], Italy. [[British Museum]], London.
|File:Isaac Claesz. van Swanenburg - Het spinnen, het scheren van de ketting, en het weven.JPG|1595 painting illustrating [[Leiden]] textile workers
|File:Middeleeuws spinkruikje spinstenen.jpg|Medieval spinning jug which contained water or grease to use during the spinning process and 3 Medieval spindle whorls.
|File:Ramallah spinner2.jpg|A man from [[Ramallah]] spinning wool. Hand-tinted photograph from 1919, restored.
))

===Spinning wheel===
[[File:Drop spindles.jpg|thumb|Modern top-whorl drop spindles]]
((Main|Spinning wheel))
The spinning wheel was possibly invented in the [[Islamic world]] by 1030. It later spread to China by 1090, and then spread from the Islamic world to Europe and India by the 13th century.<ref name="Pacey">((cite book | last = Pacey | first = Arnold | title = Technology in World Civilization: A Thousand-Year History | orig-year = 1990 | edition = First MIT Press paperback | year = 1991 | publisher = The MIT Press | location = Cambridge MA | pages = 23–24))</ref>

In medieval times, poor families had such a need for yarn to make their own cloth and clothes that practically all girls and unmarried women would keep busy spinning, and "[[spinster]]" became synonymous with an unmarried woman. Subsequent improvements with spinning wheels and then mechanical methods made hand-spinning increasingly uneconomic, but as late as the twentieth century hand-spinning remained widespread in poor countries: in conscious rejection of international industrialization, [[Gandhi]] was a notable practitioner. The hand spinning  movement that he initiated as a part of the [[Indian independence movement|Indian freedom struggle]] has made the handwoven cloth known as [[Khādī|"Khadi"]] made from handspun cotton yarn world-famous. Women spinners of cotton yarn still continue to work to produce handspun yarn for the weaving of Khadi in [[Ponduru]], a village in South India.

A great wheel (also called a wool wheel, high wheel or walking wheel) is advantageous when using the [[long draw (spinning)|long-draw technique]] to spin wool or cotton because the high ratio between the large wheel and the whorl (sheave) enables the spinner to turn the bobbin faster, thus significantly speeding up production.<ref name="Brown, Rachel pp. 230-7">Brown, Rachel, ‘’The Weaving, Spinning and Dyeing Book’’, pp. 230-7, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, NY, 1978.</ref>

A Saxony wheel (also called a flax wheel) or an upright wheel (also called a castle wheel) is invaluable when spinning flax to make linen.  The ends of flax fibres tend to stick out from the thread unless wetted while being spun, so the spinner usually keeps a bowl of water handy when spinning flax. On these types of wheels both hands are free as the wheel is turned with a treadle rather than by hand, so the spinner can use one hand to draft the fibres and the other to wet them.<ref name="Brown, Rachel pp. 230-7"/><ref>((cite web |title=Colonial American Spinning & Weaving Study Guides |publisher=Hands On History, Inc. |url=http://www.handsonhistoryinc.org/HOH-Page12.html |access-date=2011-08-03 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101215152123/http://handsonhistoryinc.org/HOH-Page12.html |archive-date=2010-12-15 ))</ref><ref>((cite web |title=Selecting a Spinning Wheel, Buying a Spinning Wheel, and Spinning Wheel Information |publisher=Woolery.com |url=http://www.woolery.com/Store/pc/Selecting-a-Wheel-c21.htm |access-date=2011-08-03 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101230153828/http://www.woolery.com/Store/pc/Selecting-a-Wheel-c21.htm |archive-date=2010-12-30 ))</ref><ref>((cite web |last=Crews |first=Ed |title=Weaving, Spinning and Dyeing |publisher= History.org |url=http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/winter07/weaving.cfm |access-date=2011-08-03))</ref> These wheels can also be used to spin wool or cotton.

===Industrial Revolution===
((main article|Textile manufacture during the Industrial Revolution|Spinning (textiles)))
[[File:Mule spinning machine at Quarry Bank Mill.jpg|thumb|A mule spinning machine at [[Quarry Bank Mill]], UK]]

Powered spinning, originally done by [[hydropower|water]] or [[steam power]] but now done by [[electricity]], is vastly faster than hand-spinning.

The [[spinning jenny]], a multi-[[Bobbin|spool]] spinning wheel invented c. 1764 by [[James Hargreaves]], dramatically reduced the amount of work needed to produce yarn of high consistency, with a single worker able to work eight or more spools at once. At roughly the same time, [[Richard Arkwright]] and a team of craftsmen developed the [[spinning frame]], which produced a stronger thread than the spinning jenny. Too large to be operated by hand, a spinning frame powered by a [[waterwheel]] became the [[water frame]].

In 1779, [[Samuel Crompton]] combined elements of the spinning jenny and water frame to create the [[spinning mule]]. This produced a stronger thread, and was suitable for mechanisation on a grand scale.  A later development, from 1828/29, was [[Ring spinning]].

In the 20th century, new techniques including [[Open End spinning]] or rotor spinning were invented to produce yarns at rates in excess of 40 meters per second.

==Characteristics of spun yarns==
((main article|Yarn))

===Materials===
Yarn can be, and is, spun from a wide variety of materials, including [[natural fibre]]s such as [[animal fibre|animal]], [[fibre crop|plant]], and [[mineral]] fibres, and [[synthetic fibre]]s.

===Twist and ply===
[[File:Yarn twist S-Left Z-Right.svg|thumb|left|upright|S-twist and Z-twist yarns]]

The direction in which the yarn is spun is called ''twist''. Yarns are characterized as S-twist or Z-twist according to the direction of spinning (see diagram). Tightness of twist is measured in [[Twist per inch|TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch)]].<ref>Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: ''Textiles'', 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, ((ISBN|0-13-118769-4)), p. 197</ref>

Two or more spun yarns may be twisted together or ''[[plying|plied]]'' to form a thicker yarn. Generally, handspun single plies are spun with a Z-twist, and plying is done with an S-twist.<ref name="twists">[http://joyofhandspinning.com/yarn-plied.shtml ''Plying Yarn with a Spinning Wheel''], The Joy of Handspinning</ref> This is a cultural preference differing in some areas but surprisingly common.  It is important, however, to spin the single plies in one direction and then spin them together in the opposite direction—in this way, the opposite-direction plying keeps the spun yarn from untwisting itself.

===Plying methods===
((Main|Plying))
Yarns can be made of two, three, four, or more plies, or may be used as ''singles'' without plying. Two-ply yarn can also be plied from both ends of one long strand of singles using a ''centre-pull ball'', where one end feeds from within a ball of yarn while the other end feeds from the outside.  "Andean plying", in which the single is first wound around one hand in a specific manner that allows unwinding both ends at once without tangling, is another way to ply smaller amounts of yarn.  The name comes from a method used by Andean spinners to manage and splice unevenly matched singles being plied from multiple spindles.<ref name="Traditional Andean Ply Splicing Method">((cite web|url=http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/2007/12/what-is-traditional-andean-ply-splicing.html|title=Ask The Bellwether: What is the traditional Andean Ply splicing method?|first=Amelia Of Ask The|last=Bellwether))</ref>  "Navajo plying", a.k.a. "chain-plying" is another method of producing a three-ply yarn, in which one strand of singles is looped around itself in a manner similar to crochet and the resulting three parallel strands twisted together. This method is often used to keep colours together on singles dyed in sequential colours. Cabled yarns are usually four-ply yarns made by plying two strands of two-ply yarn together in the direction opposite to the plying direction for the two-ply yarns.

==Contemporary hand spinning==
[[File:Nepali charka in action.jpg|thumb|A [[Demographics of Nepal|Nepali]] charka in action]] 
[[File:PokharaTibetan.JPG|thumb|A Tibetan woman spinning wool in [[Pokhara]]/Nepal]]

Hand-spinning is still an important skill in many traditional societies. [[Hobby]] or small scale artisan spinners spin their own yarn to control specific yarn qualities and produce yarn that is not widely available commercially.  Sometimes these yarns are made available to non-spinners online and in local yarn stores. Handspinners also may spin for self-sufficiency, a sense of accomplishment, or a sense of connection to history and the land. In addition, they may take up spinning for its meditative qualities.<ref>((cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/19/fashion/thursdaystyles/the-new-spinners-yarn-is-the-least-of-it.html|title=The New Spinners: Yarn Is the Least of It|first=Elizabeth|last=Olson|work=The New York Times |date=19 January 2006|via=NYTimes.com))</ref>

Within the recent past, many new spinners have joined into this ancient process, innovating the craft and creating new techniques. From using new dyeing methods before spinning, to mixing in novelty elements (Christmas Garland, eccentric beads, money, etc.) that would not normally be found in traditional yarns, to creating and employing new techniques like coiling,<ref name="Coiling">[http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer06/KScoil.html ''Toil, Toil, Coils and Bubbles''], Knitty Magazine</ref> this craft is constantly evolving and shifting.

To make various yarns, besides adding novelty elements, spinners can vary all the same things as in a machined yarn, i.e., the fibre, the preparation, the colour, the spinning technique, the direction of the twist, etc. A common misconception is that yarn spun from [[rolag]]s may not be as strong, but the strength of a yarn is actually based on the length of hair fibre and the degree of twist. When working with shorter hairs, such as from [[llama]] or [[angora rabbit]], the spinner may choose to integrate longer fibres, such as mohair, to prevent yarn breakage. Yarns made of shorter fibres are also given more twist than yarns of longer fibres, and are generally spun with the short draw technique.

The fibre can be [[dyeing|dyed]] at any time, but is often dyed before carding or after the yarn has been spun.

Wool may be spun before or after washing, although excessive amounts of [[lanolin]] may make spinning difficult, especially when using a [[spindle (textiles)|drop-spindle]]. Careless washing may cause [[felt]]ing. When done prior to spinning, this often leads to unusable wool fibre. In washing wool the key thing to avoid is too much agitation and fast temperature changes from hot to cold. Generally, washing is done lock by lock in warm water with dish-soap.

===Education===

There are number of guilds and educational institutions which offer certificate programs in handspinning. The [[Handweavers Guild of America]] (HGA) offers a Certificate of Excellence in Handspinning.<ref>[http://www.weavespindye.org/c/?loc=6-68-00, Certificates of Excellence Program Overview]</ref> [[Olds College]] in Alberta, Canada offers a Master Spinner program both on campus and by distance education.<ref name="oldscollege.ca">((cite web|url=https://www.oldscollege.ca/programs/continuing-education/fibre-arts/master-spinner-certificate/index.html|title=Master Spinning Certificate|website=Olds College|date=23 November 2017 |access-date=18 April 2019))</ref> The [[Ontario Handweavers & Spinners]] offer both a Spinning Certificate<ref name="ohs.on.ca">((cite web |url=http://www.ohs.on.ca/education/spinning-education/ |title=Spinning Education |website=Ontario Handweavers & Spinners |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170107104125/http://www.ohs.on.ca/education/spinning-education/ |archive-date=7 January 2017 |url-status=dead))</ref> and a Master Spinning Certificate.<ref name="ohs.on.ca"/><ref>((cite web |url=http://www.ohs.on.ca/education/masters-programs/ |title=Masters Programs |website=Ontario Handweavers & Spinners |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170806074848/http://www.ohs.on.ca/education/masters-programs/ |archive-date=6 August 2017 |url-status=dead))</ref> These programs feature in-depth examinations of handspinning topics, as well as extensive assignments and skill evaluations.

===Techniques===
*Watch video #1: Demonstration of hand spinning:<ref>((cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrZcr7_qXFY |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/FrZcr7_qXFY |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|title=How to Spin on a Drop Spindle|last=WEBS - America's Yarn Store|date=22 February 2012|via=YouTube))((cbignore))</ref>
[[File:HandspinnerSpinning.JPG|thumb|A handspinner using the [[short draw (spinning)|short draw technique]] to spin [[wool]] on a Saxony wheel]]

A tightly spun [[wool]] yarn made from fibre with a long staple length in it is called [[worsted]]. It is hand spun from [[Combs (textiles)|combed top]], and the fibres all lie in the same direction as the yarn. A [[woollen]] yarn, in contrast, is hand spun from a [[rolag]] or other carded fibre (roving, batts), where the fibres are not as strictly aligned to the yarn created. The woollen yarn, thus, captures much more air, and makes for a softer and generally bulkier yarn. There are two main techniques to create these different yarns: [[short draw (spinning)|short draw]] creates worsted yarns, and [[long draw (spinning)|long draw]] creates woollen yarns. Often a spinner will spin using a combination of both techniques and thus make a semi-worsted yarn.<ref name = worsted>((cite web|url=http://www.textilelinks.com/author/rb/971014.html|title=Woolen, Semi-Woolen, Semi-Worsted, Worsted Spinning|website=www.textilelinks.com))</ref>

[[short draw (spinning)|Short draw spinning]] is used to create worsted yarns. It is spun from [[combing|combed]] [[roving]], [[Sliver (textiles)|sliver]] or [[wool top]]. The spinner keeps his/her hands very close to each other. The fibres are held, fanned out, in one hand, and the other hand pulls a small number from the mass. The twist is kept between the second hand and the wheel. There is never any twist between the two hands.<ref>((cite web|last1=Juvan|first1=Lee|title=Worsted Yarns + Worsted Spinning|url=http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer09/KSFEATsum09glossary.php|website=Knitty Magazine|access-date=22 February 2016))</ref>

[[long draw (spinning)|Long draw]] is spun from a [[carding|carded]] [[rolag]]. The rolag is spun without much stretching of the fibres from the cylindrical configuration. This is done by allowing twist into a short section of the rolag, and then pulling back, without letting the rolag change position in one's hands, until the yarn is the desired thickness. The twist will concentrate in the thinnest part of the roving; thus, when the yarn is pulled, the thicker sections with less twist will tend to thin out. Once the yarn is the desired thickness, enough twist is added to make the yarn strong. Then the yarn is wound onto the bobbin, and the process starts again.<ref>((cite web|title=Basic Handspinning techniques|url=http://joyofhandspinning.com/basic-handpinning-techniques/|website=The Joy of Handspinning|date=16 October 2012 |access-date=22 February 2016))</ref>

===Spinning in the grease===
[[File:Rhof-kardierenSpinnenStricken.ogv|thumb|''[[Irrel]]er Bauerntradition'' shows carding, spinning on Saxony wheels and knitting in the [[Roscheider Hof Open Air Museum]]]]

Handspinners are split, when spinning wool, as to whether it is better to spin it "in the grease" (with [[lanolin]] still in) or after it has been washed. More traditional spinners are more willing to spin in the grease, as it is less work to wash the wool after it is in yarn form. Spinners who spin very fine yarn may also prefer to spin in the grease as it can allow them to spin finer yarns with more ease. Spinning in the grease covers the spinner's hands in lanolin and, thus, softens the spinner's hands.

Spinning in the grease works best if the fleece is newly sheared. After several months, the lanolin becomes sticky, which makes the wool harder to spin using the short-draw technique, and almost impossible to spin using the long-draw technique. In general, spinners who use the long-draw technique do not spin in the grease.

Such spinners generally buy their fibres pre-washed and carded, in the form of [[roving]], sliver, or batts. This means less work for the spinners, as they do not have to wash out the lanolin. Spinners then have available predyed fibre, or blends of fibres, which are hard to create when the wool is still in the grease. As [[carding|machine carders]] cannot card wool in the grease, pre-carded yarn generally is not spun in the grease. Some spinners use spray-on lanolin-like products to get the same feel of spinning in the grease with carded fibre. ((citation needed|date=May 2014))<ref>((Cite book |last=Raven |first=Lee |title=Hands On Spinning |publisher=Interweave Press |year=1987 |isbn=0934026270 |location=Loveland, CO |pages=112 |language=English))</ref>

==See also==
*[[Cotton mill]]
*[[Crochet]]
*[[Khādī]]
*[[Knitting]]
*[[Loom]]
*[[Magnetic ring spinning]]
*[[Ontario Handweavers & Spinners]]
*[[Weaving]]

==References==
((Reflist))

===Sources===
: ''This article contains text from the 1907 edition of ''Textiles and Clothing'' by Kate Heinz Watson, a document now in the [[public domain]].''
* Amos, Alden (2001). ''The Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning,'' Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press. ((ISBN|1-883010-88-8))
* Barber, Elizabeth Wayland (1995). ''Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years: Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times'', W. W. Norton & Company, new edition, 1995.
* Boeger, Alexis (2005). ''Handspun Revolution,''  Pluckyfluff. ((ISBN|0-9767252-0-7))
* Jenkins, David, editor (2003). ''The Cambridge History of Western Textiles'', Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, ((ISBN|0-521-34107-8))
*Piponnier, Françoise, and Perrine Mane (1997). ''Dress in the Middle Ages''; Yale UP; ((ISBN|0-300-06906-5))
* Ross, Mabel (1987). ''Essentials of Handspinning,'' Robin and Russ Handweavers. ((ISBN|0-9507292-0-5))
* Simmons, Paula (2009). ''Spinning for Softness and Speed,'' Chilliwack: British Columbia www.bookman.ca. ((ISBN|0-914842-87-0))
* Watson, Kate Heinz (1907). ''Textiles and Clothing'', Chicago: American School of Home Economics (online at [https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/21534 ''Textiles and Clothing'' by Kate Heintz Watson]).

==External links==
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*[http://www.interweave.com/spin/resources/spinning_guilds/default.asp Spinning Guilds Directory] – An international list of spinning guilds.
*[http://www.spinartiste.com Spin Artiste] – Online publication focused on making and using handspun yarn.
*[http://www.yarnmuseum.com/index.html Yarn Museum] – Online gallery promoting handspun yarn.
*[http://www.groundreport.com/handspun-yarn/ "What Makes Handspun Yarn Special?"] – News article discussing handspun yarn.
*((curlie|Business/Textiles_and_Nonwovens/Industrial_Yarns_and_Sewing_Threads/Resources/Articles_and_Studies|Yarn and Sewing Threads))
* ((Cite EB1911|wstitle=Spinning |short=x))
* ((Cite NIE|wstitle=Spinning|year=1905 |short=x))

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[[sv:Spinning (textil)]]

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Hand spinning (edit)
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Template:Ambox (view source) (template editor protected)
Template:Ambox/category (view source) (template editor protected)
Template:Authority control (view source) (template editor protected)
Template:Catalog lookup link (view source) (template editor protected)
Template:Category handler (view source) (protected)
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Template:Decorative arts (edit)
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Template:Spinning (edit)
Template:Textile arts (edit)
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Template:Yesno-yes (view source) (template editor protected)
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Module:Yesno (view source) (protected)

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