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((short description|New York City-based fashion label))
((about|the fashion brand|the Playboi Carti song|H00dByAir))
((use mdy dates|date=July 2019))
'''Hood By Air''' is a  [[fashion]] and [[streetwear]] brand based in [[New York City]]  co-founded by designers [[Shayne Oliver]] and Raul Lopez. It was  launched in 2006 and took a hiatus  2017–2019.<ref name="Streetwear Needed">((cite news |url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/04/25/hood-by-air-streetwear-legacy/ |title=Why Streetwear Needed Hood By Air |first=Nico|last=Amarca |work=[[Highsnobiety]] |date=April 25, 2017 ))</ref>  
Oliver left the brand in 2023.<ref>[https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/shayne-oliver-exits-design-duties-at-hood-by-air-forms-new-corporation/ Shayne Oliver Exits Design Duties at Hood By Air, Forms New ‘Corporation’] ''Business of Fashion'', ROBERT CORDERO, 22 June 2023</ref>

==Brand==
The designer was Shayne Oliver, a former student at [[Fashion Institute of Technology]] and [[New York University]] who described his design aesthetic as "ghetto gothic" and [[banjee]].<ref>((cite news |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/shayne-oliver-hood-air-design-vision |title=Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air on His Design Vision |first=Emily|last=Segal |work=[[Business of Fashion]] |date=August 26, 2014 ))</ref><ref name="Nylon">((cite news |url=https://nylon.com/articles/hood-by-air-hiatus |title=Hood By Air Is Going On Hiatus |first=Eric|last=Shorey |work=[[Nylon (magazine)|Nylon]] |url-status=live |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20170408220335/https://nylon.com/articles/hood-by-air-hiatus |date=April 6, 2017 |archivedate=April 8, 2017 |accessdate=September 2, 2018 |quote=Hood By Air had always stunned at fashion shows with spectacular displays that in 2014 included a live vogue performance. The company's aesthetic of dark, "banjee," and deconstructed looks had first crystalized in secret party spaces like GHE20 G0THIK and eventually transformed into a CFDA-winning label.))</ref><ref name="Fashion Moment">((cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/11/fashion/hood-by-air-has-a-fashion-moment.html |title=Hood by Air Has a Fashion Moment |first=Alex|last=Hawgood |work=[[The New York Times]] |date=April 10, 2013 ))</ref> Oliver was named among The 25 Greatest Black Fashion Designers by ''[[Complex (magazine)|Complex]]''.<ref>((cite news |url=http://www.complex.com/style/2013/02/the-25-greatest-black-fashion-designers/shayne-oliver |title=The 25 Greatest Black Fashion Designers |work=[[Complex (magazine)|Complex]] |date=February 2013 ))</ref> Oliver brought in the conceptual artist and filmmaker [[Leilah Weinraub]] as CEO and cofounder in 2012.<ref name="NYT March 2018">((cite magazine |last1=Da Costa |first1=Cassie |title=Leilah Weinraub's Radical Cinema of Privacy in "Shakedown" |url=https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/leilah-weinraubs-radical-cinema-of-privacy-in-shakedown |accessdate=11 November 2018 |magazine=The New Yorker |date=16 March 2018))</ref> Weinraub was openly skeptical of the brand's celebrity endorsements. The company was notable for refusing outside investment.<ref name="W Mag 2017">((cite web |last1=Eckardt |first1=Stephanie |title=Hood by Air's Leilah Weinraub on the Debut of Her Film About a Black Lesbian Strip Club |url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/leilah-weinraub-hood-by-air-ceo-film-whitney-biennial-interview |website=W Magazine |accessdate=11 November 2018 |language=en |date=23 May 2017))</ref> In the past, Hood By Air, also known by the acronym HBA, has identified as a "luxury streetwear brand," a term coined by Oliver and now “synonymous with HBA's subversive use of logos, high-end production values and an ingenious online presence”.<ref name=":1">((Cite web|last=Stone|first=Matthew|date=2015-02-13|title=embracing all ages, races, genders and tribes on the hood by air runway|url=https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/9ky3b3/embracing-all-ages-races-genders-and-tribes-on-the-hood-by-air-runway|access-date=2021-07-02|website=i-D|language=en))</ref>

Hood By Air is notable for its collectively-driven creative output, collaborating with a large network of [[artist]]s, [[Performing arts|performers]], and other figures from the [[New York City|New York]] creative industries, as well as global brands. The brand has been the recipient of numerous fashion accolades and awards, including the LVMH Special Prize (2014)<ref name=":2">((Cite web|title=LVMH announces the winners of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers 2014|url=https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/press-releases/lvmh-announces-the-winners-of-the-lvmh-prize-for-young-fashion-designers-2014/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=LVMH|date=May 28, 2014 |language=en))</ref> and CFDA Swarovski Award for Menswear (2015).<ref name=":3">((Cite web|title=Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver Wins Swarovski Award for Menswear at 2015 CFDA Awards|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2015/06/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air-2015-cfda-awards|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en))</ref>

== History ==
Founded in 2006 by Brooklyn-based designers Shayne Oliver and Raul Lopez, Hood By Air has gone from a t-shirt oriented streetwear project to a cult brand at the forefront of New York's fashion new guard. In 2006, Oliver was running a brand and blog under the name Elite Urban Brigade. Editorial collaborators on the blog included Akeem Smith and Mykki Blanco. Under Elite Urban Brigade, Oliver began printing one-off t-shirt designs, which he would sell at the New York streetwear store, aNYthing.<ref name=":0">((Cite web|title=FADER Explains: Hood By Air|url=https://www.thefader.com/2014/05/27/fader-explains-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The FADER|language=en))</ref>

During this period, Oliver met fellow designer Raul Lopez at an after school programme run by the [[Hetrick-Martin Institute]] in partnership with the [[Harvey Milk High School]], which Oliver attended.<ref name="thefader.com">((Cite web|title=Face Time: The Next Generation of New York's Legendary Vogue Scene|url=https://www.thefader.com/2011/07/07/face-time-the-next-generation-of-new-yorks-legendary-vogue-scene|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The FADER|language=en))</ref> Oliver introduced Lopez to his early blueprint for a brand which could expand on his Elite Urban Brigade ideas. After developing the concept further, Oliver and Lopez began [[printing]] t-shirts, eventually releasing the designs under the name Hood By Air.

Whilst attending Harvey Milk High School, Oliver was accepted onto an art programme at [[New York University]] (NYU).<ref>((Cite news|last=Givhan|first=Robin|date=2014-09-04|title=How designer Shayne Oliver won over Kanye West, A$AP Rocky — and the fashion world|language=en-US|newspaper=Washington Post|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/how-designer-shayne-oliver-won-over-kanye-west-aap-rocky--and-the-fashion-world/2014/09/04/0164105e-2972-11e4-8593-da634b334390_story.html|access-date=2021-07-02|issn=0190-8286))</ref> During this time he developed a strong link between his fashion concepts and music, which would underpin the Hood By Air brand and Oliver's creative career to date. During this time Oliver was a [[dance]]r and [[Choreography|choreographer]] for the band [[Hercules and Love Affair]]<ref>((Cite magazine|title=Hercules & Love Affair's Debut Album Turns 10: Andy Butler Looks Back at the Project's Inception|url=https://www.billboard.com/articles/news/pride/8239786/hercules-love-affairs-debut-album-10-andy-butler|access-date=2021-07-02|magazine=Billboard|language=en))</ref> and would create costumes that he would wear as a dancer. Subsequently, Oliver designed merchandise for the band.<ref name="thefader.com"/>

After leaving [[New York University|NYU]], Oliver attended the [[Fashion Institute of Technology]] (FIT), but left after one semester.<ref>((Cite web|title=Shayne Oliver Talks About Dropping Out of FIT and Starting Hood By Air (Video)|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2014/04/shayne-oliver-talks-dropping-out-of-fit-starting-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en))</ref> In 2006 Oliver showed an early Hood By Air look at the artist [[Dash Snow]]’s gallery in [[Chelsea, Manhattan|Chelsea, New York]].<ref>((Cite web|date=2020-06-16|title=How Hood By Air Harnessed the Spirit of New York City Nightlife|url=https://www.electronicbeats.net/hood-by-air-shayne-oliver-venus-x-ghettogothik/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Telekom Electronic Beats|language=en-US))</ref> Soon after, with an expanding fan base and an enthusiastic reception from fashion buyers, Hood By Air found its first stockists in OAK NYC <ref name=":4">((Cite web|date=2009-01-22|title=Hood By Air Classics Launch Party|url=https://hypebeast.com/2009/1/hood-by-air-classics-launch-party|access-date=2021-07-02|website=HYPEBEAST))</ref> and Seven New York. [[Opening Ceremony (brand)|Opening Ceremony]]<ref name=":5">((Cite web|date=2015-02-12|title=Inside the Ambiguously Gendered, Pan-Racial, In-Your-Face Rolling Party of Hood by Air|url=http://www.thecut.com/2015/02/hood-by-air.html|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The Cut|language=en))</ref> was also an early stockist of the brand.<ref name=":0" /> In 2008, Hood By Air held its first presentation at artist [[Terence Koh]]’s A.S.S. gallery in [[Chinatown, Manhattan|Chinatown]], New York.<ref name=":6">((Cite web|last=Dazed|date=2019-12-17|title=A collective, anarchic history of Hood By Air|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/47087/1/a-collective-anarchic-history-of-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Dazed|language=en))</ref>  Designer [[Telfar Clemens]], who attended the show recalls, “it was kind of a peep show, and sort of like a block-party-slash-art-opening type of thing".<ref name=":6" /> The presentation was an early example of what was to become a hallmark for the brand; a spectacle-driven approach that merges conventional runway shows with personality-driven performances and presentations.

In 2009 Hood By Air held its first official fashion presentation at OAK NYC, launching the Hood By Air Classics line.<ref name=":4" /> This subcategory of the brand encompassed Hood By Air's  graphic-based designs on t-shirts and basics, complimenting the brand's now increasing focus on ready-to-wear. The presentation featured a performance by [[Kid Cudi]].<ref name=":4" /> Soon after this presentation, Lopez left the brand.  Oliver continued to build Hood By Air together with a core group of creative collaborators in New York. From 2009, whilst working on Hood By Air Oliver was involved with GHE20G0TH1K, a club night launched by Jazmin Soto, aka Venus X, in New York City. The party, which moved around venues in [[Williamsburg, Brooklyn|Williamsburg]] and the [[Lower East Side]], brought together [[New York City|NYC's]] diverse creative communities and is widely celebrated as an influential party in the nightlife of the city.  “We created a glamorous, fashion-friendly, art-friendly, freak fest,” said Soto. “Everyone was welcome and everyone felt cool there. Everyone liked it.”<ref name=":6" /> The culture and community around GHE20G0TH1K has been a paramount influence on Oliver's designs and the Hood By Air brand. Venus X is credited by Oliver as a major contributor to the growth of culture around the brand. Oliver also met [[Venezuela|Venezuelen]] musician Alejandra Ghersi, aka [[Arca (musician)|Arca]] at GHE20G0TH1K, forming a relationship that led to the pair working together on a continued basis.

After a short hiatus, Oliver launched what he describes as the second iteration of the brand. Bringing filmmaker, [[Leilah Weinraub]], on board as [[Chief executive officer|CEO]] the pair formulated business plans that led to a revised focus on fashion presentations. HBA's global brand ambassador, Ian Isiah, and Kevin Amato, the brand's casting director, remained  collaborators. New additions to the team included Paul Cupo signing on as design director, and Akeem Smith join as head stylist. Zachary Ching, at the time creative director at VFILES, would also join the brand as its commercial director.<ref>((Cite web|last=Cordero|first=Robert|date=September 11, 2015|title=The Image-Masters Behind Hood By Air|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/the-image-masters-behind-hood-by-air|website=Business Of Fashion))</ref> Oliver credits each of these figures as co-founders of the Hood By Air brand.

In May 2012, Hood By Air was included in [[Norwegians|Norwegian]] artist [[Bjarne Melgaard]]’s group show ‘Ideal Pole’ at Ramiken Crucible gallery, New York. Hood By Air created a ‘[[Pop-up retail|pop-up shop]]’ as part of the show, printing t-shirts with graphics that read ‘Bareback By Air / Classics’. The t-shirts appeared in an [[installation art|installation]] titled ‘Deferred Action’, by the artists Jo Barage and Clinton Ellies.<ref>((Cite web|title=- IDEAL POLE by Bjarne Melgaard|url=http://www.ramikencrucible.com/ideal-pole/single-gallery/14912050?originalSize=true|access-date=2021-07-02|website=www.ramikencrucible.com))</ref>

A second season of HBA Classics followed, supported by launch events at the New York fashion retailer, VFILES. In June 2012, VFILES held an opening party for its shop at [[Mercer Street (Manhattan)|Mercer Street]] in New York City's [[SoHo, Manhattan|SoHo]]. The event doubled as a relaunch event for Hood By Air, with Oliver and Venus X DJ’ing, and [[ASAP Rocky|A$AP Rocky]] performing. The moment has been referenced by [[Complex Networks|Complex]] as solidifying both HBA and VFILES as “relevant movements in fashion”.<ref name=":7">((Cite web|title=How Hood By Air Changed Fashion in the 2010s|url=https://www.complex.com/style/hood-by-air-changed-fashion-in-the-2010s|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en))</ref>  VFILES would become known for stocking an assortment of emerging brands at the crest of a creative new wave in streetwear, including [[Virgil Abloh|Virgil Abloh's]] Pyrex, Been Trill, and Fear of God, alongside Hood By Air. In the months following the relaunch moment, Hood By Air and Been Trill released a collaborative t-shirt that would be popularised through extensive exposure by [[ASAP Rocky|A$AP Rocky]], leading to a new frenzy around the brand. At the time, the hype around the product meant that Hood By Air was perceived as aligned with a streetwear fraternity, a notion which Oliver was dismissive of. According to the designer, the t-shirt was initially designed simply to be given to friends at a casual brunch, but became a “fucking phenomenon” <ref>((Citation|title=KERWIN FROST TALKS WITH HOOD BY AIR FT SHAYNE OLIVER AND IAN ISIAH (EPISODE 5)|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpTvNs8swnE|language=en|access-date=2021-07-02))</ref> according to Oliver.

Shortly afterwards, in September 2013, Hood By Air presented its first [[Fashion show|runway show]], held at New York's Milk Studios.<ref>((Cite web|date=2013-02-12|title=Hood By Air F/W 2013 Show at Milk Studios, New York - purple FASHION|url=https://purple.fr/diary/hood-by-air-fw-2013-show-at-milk-studios-new-york/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Purple|language=fr))</ref> Presenting the brand's FW13 collection, Oliver cemented HBA's reputation for genre-blending and cross-cultural reference with a collection that paired bold graphics with progressive cut-and-sew pieces, and runway appearances from [[ASAP Rocky|A$AP Rocky]] and performance artist, [[boychild]] [link], amongst the models cast for the show.<ref>((Cite web|title=Celeb Spotting: A$AP Rocky Closes Hood By Air Fall 2013|url=https://www.gq.com/story/celeb-spotting-aap-rocky-closes-hood-by-air-fall-2013|access-date=2021-07-02|website=GQ|date=February 10, 2013 |language=en-US))</ref> As Hood By Air continued to show its collections in a runway setting, the brand signed with fashion publicists, PR Consulting.  Soon after, Hood By Air presented its first collection in [[Paris]]. The RTW Spring 2015 collection presented was billed as part two of what HBA had already unveiled at [[New York Fashion Week]], with an emphasis on [[womenswear]]. The show invite – a lace-trimmed [[thong]] – signalled as much. “This is a ‘femme’ take on the energy we produced in New York,” Oliver said of the show. “It's flashier, with details that are louder, to show off a little bit.”<ref>((Cite web|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|date=2014-09-23|title=Hood By Air RTW Spring 2015|url=https://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/paris/hood-by-air/review/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=WWD|language=en-US))</ref>

In October 2014 [[Museum of Modern Art|MoMA]] PopRally presented ''Id'', a party performance and multimedia installation by Hood By Air, held at the [[Museum of Modern Art]]. The event was billed as “a performance masquerading as a party... ''Id'' is an interactive, semi-virtual experience that includes a theatre, a live stream, and a "humannequin" installation” <ref>((Cite web|title=MoMA PopRally Presents Hood by Air: Id ((!)) MoMA|url=https://www.moma.org/calendar/events/602|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The Museum of Modern Art|language=en))</ref> and featured performances by [[boychild]] and [[Mykki Blanco]]. Hood By Air was awarded the inaugural [[LVMH]] Special Jury Prize in 2014.<ref>((Cite web|last=SSENSE|date=2019-02-27|title=Creative Director Shayne Oliver is Relaunching Hood by Air|url=https://www.ssense.com/en-gb/editorial/fashion/creative-director-shayne-oliver-is-relaunching-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=ssense|language=en))</ref>

In 2014, Hood By Air joined the [[New Guards Group]]. Under a new business structure led by the conglomerate, which handled HBA's production, distribution, and sales, the brand focused on expansion, shifting its production emphasis to product rather than cultural spectacle. By this stage Oliver had moved the brand's headquarters to [[Italy]] and Hood By Air began to work to a more intense fashion [[schedule]], including pre-collections in [[Paris]] and expanding designs to include [[leather]]s, [[fur]]s and [[tailoring]].<ref name=":8">((Cite web|date=2020-02-12|title=What Happened to Hood By Air?|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/what-happened-to-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The Business of Fashion|language=en-GB))</ref> In 2015 Hood By Air was selected for inclusion at the prestigious bi-annual menswear trade show, [[Pitti Uomo|Pitti Uomo 87]]. Against expectations that the brand would simply transplant New York culture to a Florentine setting, the brand  chose to overtake a Tuscan villa, with tailoring a key emphasis of the collection. Speaking with ''Vogue'' during a backstage interview, Oliver explained the show was “our first attempt to really push luxury in a full collection”.<ref name="Nast">((Cite web|title=In Florence, a Fearless Take on Tradition From Hood by Air|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-pitti-uomo-presentation|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=January 15, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

This would be a benchmark moment for this era of Hood By Air, and signified the arrival of a new period of growth for the brand. The same year, Shayne Oliver received the 2015 [[Council of Fashion Designers of America]] (CFDA) Swarovski Award for Menswear.<ref name=":3" /> Amidst the business growth under [[New Guards Group]], however, Oliver felt a sense of creative regression as a consequence of focusing heavily on product, taking away from investing his energy into the cultural landscape that had always defined Hood By Air. After three seasons with [[New Guards Group]], showing two to three collections per season, Hood By Air left the group and returned to [[New York City|New York]] in 2016.<ref name=":8" />

Back on home ground, Oliver set about recapturing the energy of the brand before its move to Italy. Re-orienting towards conceptual presentations meant he had the [[freedom]] once again to design clothes and [[Fashion accessory|accessories]] specifically for runway moments, without such commercial pressure to sell through as the brand experienced during the New Guards Group era. Hood By Air's Fall 2016 [[Ready-to-wear|Ready-To-Wear]] collection, titled ‘Pilgrimage’, was completed and shown in New York during NYFW. Reflecting on the collection, ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' suggested that Oliver's time in Italy had added to the brand's technical expertise:  “the new clothes reflect the strides he's made: There's a confidence that runs through, from the mind-boggling technical complexities of the outwear to the cheeky slogan bodysuits to the streetwise buckets hats”, adding that Oliver has an “ instinct for what's next”<ref>((Cite web|last=Nnadi|first=Chioma|title=Hood By Air Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|language=en-US))</ref> In May 2016, Hood By Air held a brand presentation at the [[Delano South Beach|Delano Hotel]] during [[Art Basel Miami Beach]]. During the show, which was presented in partnership with [[MoMA PS1]], [[Instagram]]-cast models wore clothing from the designer's collaboration with photographer [[Pieter Hugo]], featuring Hugo's portraits of [[LGBT]] [[Jamaicans]]. [[W (magazine)|W Magazine]] labelled the presentation “[[Art Basel]] 2016's most [[transgressive art|transgressive]] show”.<ref>((Cite web|title=Inside Hood By Air's Epic Miami Pool Party, Art Basel 2016's Most Transgressive Show|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/inside-hood-by-airs-epic-miami-pool-party-art-basel-2016s-most-transgressive-show|access-date=2021-07-02|website=W Magazine|date=December 3, 2016 |language=en))</ref>

Having re-engaged the spirit of the brand upon returning to New York City, Oliver and his team began to experience a new challenge; continuing the scale of the post-New Guards Group operation as a small, core team — most of whom were not fashion insiders or business people but artists, musicians, image-makers, and other figures from the New York creative industries with close ties to the brand and its cultural workings. While e-commerce continued to run efficiently during this period, the retail business had outsized its operators. The brand had reached new heights of popularity, spurred on by support from celebrities such as [[Rihanna]] who wore Hood By Air during a televised performance at the 2016 MTV Video Music Awards<ref>((Cite news|last=Friedman|first=Vanessa|date=2016-08-29|title=MTV Video Music Awards Are the Anti-Oscars, and That's a Good Thing|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/30/fashion/mtv-video-music-awards-beyonce.html|access-date=2021-07-02|issn=0362-4331))</ref> In 2016, the brand released a [[Capsule wardrobe|capsule]] collection in collaboration with the [[Pornography|pornographic]] [[Online video platform|video platform]], [[Pornhub]]<ref name=":9">((Cite web|last=Breslin|first=Susannah|title=How A Porn Company And A Fashion Brand Shocked New York Fashion Week|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/susannahbreslin/2016/09/27/hood-by-air-pornhub/|access-date=2020-03-04|website=Forbes|language=en))</ref> the SS17 'Wench' collection.<ref>((Cite web|date=2016-09-12|title=Hood By Air: SS17 NYFW|url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/hba-ss17-nyfw/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Highsnobiety|language=en))</ref>

However, with external company interests calling for Oliver's design expertise, on April 6, 2017, Hood By Air announced that Oliver would be putting the brand on hold to take a new role at [[Helmut Lang (fashion brand)|Helmut Lang]].<ref name="Nylon" /><ref>((cite news|last=Yotka|first=Steff|date=April 6, 2017|title=Hood By Air Is Taking a Break From Fashion|work=[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-halting-production))</ref> Hood By Air entered a three-year period of hiatus.

== Hiatus ==

Hood By Air remained on official hiatus between 2017 and 2020. During this time Shayne Oliver worked with several established fashion houses, as well as on personal creative projects.<ref name=":8" />

=== Helmut Lang ===
Prior to Hood By Air's final pre-hiatus show, Shayne Oliver was approached by [[Helmut Lang (fashion brand)|Helmut Lang]]’s editor-in-residence, Isabella Burley, to take up a position at that brand as designer-in-residence. Only one month after Oliver had nullified his design responsibilities at Hood By Air he introduced his first offering under [[Helmut Lang (fashion brand)|Helmut Lang]], presenting the brand's Spring 2018 Ready-To-Wear collection in September 2017 at [[New York Fashion Week]].<ref>((Cite web|last=Hope Allwood|first=Emma|date=September 12, 2017|title=Shayne Oliver's Helmut Lang makes next-level NYFW debut|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/37360/1/shayne-olivers-helmut-lang-makes-its-nyfw-debut-ss18-show-isabella-burley|website=Dazed Digital))</ref> That same month, Helmut Lang also released the Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver Autumn Tour Merch collection, inspired by band tour merchandise.<ref>((Cite web|title=The Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Autumn Tour Merch Collection Offers a Novel Way to Show You're With the B(r)and|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/new-york-fashion-week-spring-2018-shayne-oliver-helmut-lang|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=September 11, 2017 |language=en-US))</ref>

=== Diesel ===
Having completed his residency at [[Helmut Lang (fashion brand)|Helmut Lang]], Oliver worked with Italian denim giant, [[Diesel (brand)|Diesel]], unveiling a capsule collection as part of the Diesel Red Tag Project in March 2018. The capsule, which saw Oliver subvert [[Americana (culture)|Americana]] staples with his intricate reworking of [[denim]] apparel, provided the designer with an opportunity to become familiar with new design processes, whilst further establishing his appeal as a solo designer.<ref>((Cite web|title=Shayne Oliver Unveils a New Capsule Collection for Diesel in Paris|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/shayne-oliver-diesel-red-tag-project-paris-collection|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=March 4, 2018 |language=en-US))</ref>

=== Colmar ===
In 2018 Oliver began to collaborate with heritage activewear label, Colmar. Applying his vision to the Colmar A.G.E (Advanced Garment Exploration) FW18 line, Oliver progressively reworked the brand's [[mountain]] attire, adding a sense of outsized surreality to conventional outdoors wear. Oliver described the collaboration as “juggling the iconic products of Colmar with my sense of performance and a [[unisex]] approach to wearing fashion”.<ref>((Cite web|date=2018-09-01|title=Shayne Oliver Teams Up With Colmar For Skiwear Collection|url=https://www.papermag.com/shayne-oliver-colmar-aw18-2600873491.html?rebelltitem=14#rebelltitem14?rebelltitem=14|access-date=2021-07-02|website=PAPER|language=en))</ref>

=== 2020 return ===
In July 2020, Oliver announced the official return of Hood By Air. In an accompanying statement, the designer stated, “gentrification leaves no physical spaces for new, influential ideas to exist or reside. So Hood By Air will be a place for these ideas to have a home.”<ref name=":10">((Cite web|date=2020-07-14|title=Hood By Air is Officially Coming Back This Thursday|url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/hood-by-air-relaunch/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Highsnobiety|language=en))</ref>

In March 2021, the brand fully relaunched with an [[advertising campaign]] helmed by [[supermodel]] [[Naomi Campbell]].<ref>((Cite web|last=Yotka|first=Steff|title=Hood By Air Relaunches Its Ready-to-Wear, Starring Naomi Campbell|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-prologue-naomi-campbell-mother-campaign|access-date=2021-03-12|website=Vogue|date=March 3, 2021 |language=en-us))</ref>

The brand relaunched with a new structure consisting of four distinct components: ‘Hood By Air' maintains its position as the brand's elevated fashion offering; ‘HBA’ exists as direct-to-consumer product released under a streetwear-aligned ‘drop’ schedule; ‘Museum’ refers to archival pieces from the original Hood By Air brand, reinterpreted by guest designers-in-residence; and Anonymous Club is a creative studio driven by a collective of talent, with the purpose of engineering Hood By Air's wider brand narrative through ongoing collaborations and activations.<ref name=":10" /> The brand's 2020 relaunch announcement was accompanied by the release of a limited edition  [[t-shirt]] and  [[Payment card|cash card]] designed in collaboration with person-to-person [[mobile payment]] company [[Cash App]].<ref>((Cite web|last=Yotka|first=Steff|title=Hood by Air Returns With a T-Shirt, Cash Card, and Expansive Plans for the Future|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-returns-t-shirt-cash-card|access-date=2021-03-12|website=Vogue|date=July 16, 2020 |language=en-us))</ref> Proceeds from the t-shirt sales were donated to several charities, including Black Trans Femmes in the Arts, Emergency Release Fund, and Gays & Lesbians Living In A Transgender Society.<ref name="Davis">((Cite web|last=Davis|first=Dominic-Madori|title=Pioneering luxury streetwear brand Hood By Air is back 3 years after going on hiatus, and it's partnering with Cash App on a new 'Cash Card'|url=https://www.businessinsider.com/hood-by-air-announced-partnership-with-financial-service-cash-app-2020-7|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Business Insider|language=en-US))</ref>

In March 2021, the brand further signalled its new visual era with an [[advertising]] campaign helmed by [[supermodel]] [[Naomi Campbell]]. The campaign announced a new ‘Prologue’ phase for the brand. In April 2021, as part of the ‘Prologue’ phase, Hood By Air released a new series of products under the capsule title ‘Veteran’. The product was released in five ‘drops’ emulating the streetwear spirit that Hood By Air has been connected with in the past.<ref>((Cite web|title=Hood By Air Relaunches Its Ready-to-Wear, Starring Naomi Campbell|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-prologue-naomi-campbell-mother-campaign|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=March 3, 2021 |language=en-US))</ref> Intended as a segue between the brand's past and future, the ‘Prologue’ phase retrospectively pays tribute to a list of ‘characters’, each of which represents a different era of the Hood by Air brand.

As of 2021, Hood By Air is run by a board of directors including Shayne Oliver and [[Edison Chen]], who has taken over the role of [[Chief executive officer|CEO]]. The brand remains an independent entity.<ref>((Cite web|date=2020-11-11|title=Can Shayne Oliver's HBA Pull Off a Second Coming?|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air-interview-reboot|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The Business of Fashion|language=en-GB))</ref>

== Designs and shows ==

Hood By Air has received widespread praise and positive reception for its progressive design values and uncompromising aesthetics. The brand has been noted for its diverse [[Subculture|subcultural]] touch points, taking influence and inspiration from the [[art world]], queer culture, [[hip hop]], [[Clubbing (subculture)|club culture]], and subversion of corporate branding through design.

In a 2015 article, Oliver's designs were described by [[i-D]] Magazine as “[questioning] [[gender]], [[race (human categorization)|race]] and [[power (social and political)|power]], cutting through the noise of the fashion world with razor sharp precision”.<ref name=":1" /> In a short biographical entry on the brand, the LVMH Prize describes Hood By Air as “re-imagining Americana uniforms” by “combining the fluidity of youth culture with the refinement of luxury fashion”.<ref>((Cite web|title=HOOD BY AIR|url=https://www.lvmhprize.com/designer/hood-by-air/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=LVMH PRIZE))</ref> Referencing Hood By Air's logo-heavy aesthetic, The Cut explains “they were more about signifying membership in a tribe than they were about advancing any design agenda.” The article continues: “aggressively inclusive, HBA wasn't gay or straight. It wasn't [[Skateboarding|skate]] or [[Hip hop|hip-hop]] or [[art]] or fashion—it was, rather, all these things at once.”<ref name=":5" /> [[Designer]] and [[Creative director|Creative Director]], [[Matthew Williams (designer)|Matthew Williams]], has described Hood By Air's relevance across cultural touch points: "Shayne's brand really is a bridge between fashion and urban street culture and music”.<ref name=":11">((Cite web|title=Air Apparent|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-style-print|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=October 30, 2013 |language=en-US))</ref> Oliver himself expanded on his multifaceted references during an interview with [[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'';''  "I started making clothes because I wanted stuff to wear that could move between these worlds... This art world of downtown, in [[Manhattan]], and this other world that I went home to—there are things that connect them.”<ref name=":11" /> In the same article, fashion journalist, Maya Singer, posits that in its early years Hood By Air communicated a sense of authority though "exaggerated sizing, big logos, and in-your-face graphics”, making a connection between these qualities of HBA and the “quintessential attributes of urban streetwear”. Hood By Air worked prominently with designers Michael Magnum, Oscar Sanchez, and [[Virgil Abloh]] on graphics, particularly during its early years. Many of Hood By Air's graphics are inspired by film, [[queer]], and [[Delinquent Habits|delinquent]] culture. Despite its early focus on logos and graphics, the brand has since become known for its progressive, technically complex and often [[Androgyny|androgynous]] ready-to-wear collections.

Hood By Air is known for the performative nature of its fashion presentations, using the runway as a multifaceted performance space that brings together diverse elements from the brand's cultural mood board. In the past, notable runway appearances have been made by rapper, [[ASAP Rocky|A$AP Rocky]], performance artist, [[boychild]], and German artist, [[Wolfgang Tillmans]], whilst the music for several Hood By Air shows has been composed by [[Venezuela]]n musician [[Arca (musician)|Arca]], who has also DJ’d at the shows.

The brand focused on gender-neutral designs, a mode described by Oliver as "powerwear".<ref name="Gender Agnostics">((cite book|last1=Geczy|first1=Adam|title=Critical Fashion Practice: From Westwood to van Beirendonck|last2=Karaminas|first2=Vicki|date=2018|publisher=Bloomsbury Academic|isbn=978-1-4742-6556-0|location=London|pages=105–120|chapter=Rad Hourani's Gender Agnostics))</ref> Its influences include 1990s-era New York City culture as well as brands like; [[Diesel (brand)|Diesel]], [[Tommy Hilfiger]], Polo Sport and [[DKNY]].<ref>((cite web|title=Hood By Air|url=https://hypebeast.com/tags/hood-by-air|website=Hypebeast))</ref>

Oliver's creative collaborations included an installation with artists Ava Nirui and Alex Lee. For this, Nirui and Lee commissioned outfits by Hood By Air and designer [[Eckhaus Latta]] to be worn by [[Barbie dolls]] with a variety of realistic body-types.<ref name="Gender Agnostics" />

The brand also collaborated with musicians [[ASAP Rocky|A$AP Rocky]], [[Kanye West]], and [[Rihanna]],<ref name="Streetwear Needed" /> and won awards from [[LVMH]] and the [[Council of Fashion Designers of America]].<ref name="Nylon" /> It was chosen for a guest spot at menswear trade show [[Pitti Uomo]] in 2015.<ref name="Streetwear Needed" /> Its runway pieces have been sold at high-end boutiques like [[Opening Ceremony (brand)|Opening Ceremony]], [[Colette (boutique)|Colette]] in [[Paris]] and [[Harvey Nichols]] in [[London]].<ref name="Fashion Moment" />

== Fashion shows and collections ==

●     Spring 2014 Menswear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Singer|first=Maya|title=Hood By Air Spring 2014 Menswear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-menswear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=September 8, 2013 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Fall 2014 Menswear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Singer|first=Maya|title=Hood By Air Fall 2014 Menswear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-menswear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=February 9, 2014 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Singer|first=Maya|title=Hood By Air Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=February 10, 2014 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear (Part 1: New York Fashion Week, Part 2: Paris Fashion Week,<ref>((Cite web|last=Singer|first=Maya|title=Hood By Air Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=September 23, 2014 |language=en-US))</ref> Part 3: MoMA, New York<ref>((Cite web|last=Manning|first=Emily|date=2014-11-03|title=hood by air unleashes its iD at moma|url=https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/evnx9p/hood-by-air-unleashes-its-id-at-moma|access-date=2021-07-02|website=i-D|language=en))</ref>)

●     Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Singer|first=Maya|title=Hood By Air Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=February 15, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Fall 2015 Menswear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Singer|first=Maya|title=Hood By Air Fall 2015 Menswear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=February 16, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Pitti Uomo 87 Presentation (Florence, Italy)<ref name="Nast"/>

●     Spring 2016 Menswear (Paris Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Blanks|first=Tim|title=Hood By Air Spring 2016 Menswear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=June 28, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Mower|first=Sarah|title=Hood By Air Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=September 13, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Nnadi|first=Chioma|title=Hood By Air Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|language=en-US))</ref>

●     Spring 2017 Menswear (Paris Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Fury|first=Alexander|title=Hood By Air Spring 2017 Menswear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=June 27, 2016 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear (New York Fashion Week)<ref>((Cite web|last=Nnadi|first=Chioma|title=Hood By Air Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=September 11, 2016 |language=en-US))</ref>

== Brand collaborations ==

●     [[Barneys New York|Barneys]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Exclusive: Hood By Air and Barneys Team Up for a New Kind of Virtual Reality|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-barneys-new-york-windows|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=March 28, 2016 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Been Trill <ref>((Cite web|date=2013-02-06|title=HBA x Been Trill T-Shirt|url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/hood-by-air-x-been-trill-t-shirt/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Highsnobiety|language=en))</ref>

●     [[Bjarne Melgaard]]<ref>((Cite web|title=DIS Announces Diffusion Art Line to Launch Next Month|url=http://artobserved.com/2014/02/dis-announces-diffusion-art-line-to-launch-next-month/|access-date=2021-07-02|language=en-US))</ref>

●     [[Cash App]]<ref name="Davis"/>

●     Colette

●     Corgi<ref>((Cite web|date=2013-11-26|title=A Styled Look at the Hood By Air x Corgi Collection|url=https://hypebeast.com/2013/11/a-styled-look-at-the-hood-by-air-x-corgi-collection|access-date=2021-07-02|website=HYPEBEAST))</ref>

●     [[Dolly Cohen]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Meet Dolly Cohen, The Parisian Woman Making The Craziest Grills In Rap|url=https://www.thefader.com/2015/07/01/meet-dolly-cohen-the-parisian-woman-making-the-craziest-grills-in-rap|access-date=2021-07-02|website=The FADER|date=April 17, 2014 |language=en))</ref>

●     [[Dover Street Market]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Hood by Air Brings Installation and Exclusive Pieces to Dover Street Market New York|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2015/04/hood-by-air-installation-exclusive-pieces-at-dover-street-market-new-york|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en))</ref>

●     [[Fox Broadcasting Company|Fox]] ([[Empire (2015 TV series)|Empire]])<ref>((Cite web|title=What Would Cookie Wear? Hood By Air Teams Up With Empire on a Boss-Worthy Collab|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/empire-hood-by-air-taraji-p-henson|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=November 10, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     Frye<ref>((Cite web|last=Halbert|first=Mosha Lundstrom|date=2016-12-21|title=The Most Controversial Shoes on the Runways of 2016|url=https://footwearnews.com/2016/fashion/designers/controversial-crazy-runway-shoes-2016-287907/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Footwear News|language=en-US))</ref>

●     [[Gentle Monster]]<ref>((Cite web|date=2016-04-14|title=HBA x Gentle Monster SS16 Sunglasses|url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/hood-by-air-gentle-monster-sunglasses-ss16/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Highsnobiety|language=en))</ref>

●     [[Hustler (magazine)|Hustler]]<ref>((Cite web|date=2017-05-03|title=Hood By Air Releases Final Spring '17 Campaign|url=http://www.out.com/fashion/2017/5/03/hood-air-releases-final-spring-17-campaign|access-date=2021-07-02|website=www.out.com|language=en))</ref>

●     [[Kangol]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Hood By Air's Kangol Collaboration Goes on Sale Today|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-kangol-hats-direct-to-consumer|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=February 14, 2016 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     [[LUMA Foundation]]<ref>((Cite web|date=2020-12-07|title=Hood By Air Talk Us Through The First Anonymous Club Residency|url=https://www.10magazine.com/arts/hood-by-air-anonymous-club-residency/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=10 Magazine))</ref>

●     [[Pieter Hugo]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Hood By Air and Pieter Hugo Continue to Champion Jamaica's Homosexual Community With a New Collab|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hood-by-air-pieter-hugo-jamaica-homosexual-community-collaboration|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Vogue|date=December 2016 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     [[Pornhub]]<ref name=":9" />

●     [[Selfridges]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Hood By Air Takes Over Selfridges for a Party That Celebrates Apocalyptic Rollerskating|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2013/06/hood-by-air-selfridges-party-apocalyptic-rollerskating|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en))</ref>

●     Starter

●     [[Swarovski]]<ref>((Cite web|title=Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air Bedazzles a Construction Drum for Charity|url=https://www.gq.com/story/hood-by-air-shayne-oliver-interview-cfda|access-date=2021-07-02|website=GQ|date=May 12, 2015 |language=en-US))</ref>

●     [[Virgil Abloh|Virgil Alboh]]<ref name=":7" />

●     [[Woolmark]]<ref>((Cite web|last=Beach|first=Hana|date=2015-07-27|title=hood by air's shayne oliver joins the CFDA|url=https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/d3vw7z/hood-by-airs-shayne-oliver-joins-the-cfda|access-date=2021-07-02|website=i-D|language=en))</ref>

== Awards ==

*2014 [[LVMH]] Special Jury Prize<ref name=":2" />
*2015 [[CFDA Award|CFDA]] Swarovski Award for Menswear<ref>((Cite web|title=Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver Wins Swarovski Award for Menswear at 2015 CFDA Awards|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2015/06/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air-2015-cfda-awards|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en))</ref>

== See also ==
* [[Rick Owens]]
* [[Raf Simons]]
* [[Supreme (brand)|Supreme]]
* [[Proenza Schouler]]

== References ==
((Reflist))

[[Category:Luxury brands]]
[[Category:Retail companies established in 2006]]

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