Houbigant Parfum (pronounced [ubiɡɑ̃]) is a perfume manufacturer founded in Paris, France in 1775[1] by Jean-François Houbigant of Grasse (1752–1807). The brand originally sold gloves, perfumes, and bridal bouquets. The original shop, À la Corbeille de Fleurs operated at 19, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.[1] Several European rulers including Napoleon, Napoleon III, Alexander III of Russia, and Queen Victoria used Houbigant's perfume.
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See also: History of perfume |
In 1882 the House launched Fougère Royale, the first fougère (or 'fern-like') perfume,[citation needed] establishing a new fragrance family which still remains today the most popular family in men's fragrances.[citation needed]
During this period, under the direction of the Paris office, offices were established in the United States, England, Belgium, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Poland, and Romania. The New York location included a manufacturing and distribution facility.
Houbigant was the first perfume house to discover how to isolate particular molecules from natural raw materials—specifically, coumarin, which is isolated from the tonka bean. In 1912, they introduced Quelques Fleurs, the first multi-floral bouquet.[citation needed] Up to that time, floral fragrances had been mostly single flowers or were blended with herbs and other essences. The Genealogy of Perfumes cites Quelques Fleurs as an innovation that established a new fragrance classification and influenced other compositions for years afterward, including many of today’s important fragrances.[citation needed]
The Houbigant factory was bombed during the Second World War, and the brand never recovered its former prestige, although it did produce some mildly successful fragrances, later discontinued.[2]
In 1993 Houbigant filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in New York, with liabilities of US$52.5 million and assets of $23 million. In 1994 Houbigant licensed twelve Houbigant perfumes, with their formulas and the Houbigant name, to a start-up company, Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc., which stated that its intention was to market via drug store chains and discounters, rather than maintain Houbigant's market position. Renaissance's competitive market, unlike Houbigant's, provided small profit margins and required affordable formulations.[3]
However, Renaissance filed for bankruptcy protection in 1999, preceded by much litigation between the companies, with Houbigant complaining that its perfumes were being "watered down", and its name used in ways not included in the licensing agreement. Houbigant later litigated with Renaissance's insurers over the claims.[3]
Ultimately Renaissance ceased to exist, Houbigant, no longer made perfumes, and perfumes far from their original formulations were legally sold under the Houbigant name. A company called "New Dana Perfumes", later "Dana Classic Fragrances", ended up with the legal right to use the "Houbigant" name for fragrances they manufactured themselves; Houbigant no longer tried to enforce compliance with the originals.[3] It was reported in 2017 that the Houbigant perfumes were being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco.[2]
The Houbigant fragrances are now manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics.
