Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
Nationality	Austrian
Born	(1990-12-31) December 31, 1990 (age 33) Innsbruck, Austria
Occupation	Professional sport climber
Height	176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight	63 kg (139 lb)
Website	https://www.jakob-schubert.com
Climbing career
Type of climber	Competition climbing Sport climbing Bouldering
Highest grade	Redpoint: 9c (5.15d) On-sight: 8c (5.14b)
Known for	Three times World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018) Four times World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
First ascents	Companion of Change (9a+, 2015) Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016) B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
Medal record Men's competition climbing Representing  Austria Olympic Games 2020 Tokyo Combined World Championships 2012 Paris Lead 2018 Innsbruck Lead 2018 Innsbruck Combined 2021 Moscow Lead 2023 Bern Lead 2023 Bern Combined 2011 Arco Lead 2016 Paris Lead 2019 Hachiōji Bouldering 2019 Hachiōji Combined 2019 Hachiōji Lead World Cup Winner 2011 Lead Winner 2011 Combined Winner 2012 Combined Winner 2013 Combined Winner 2014 Lead 2015 Lead 2016 Lead 2016 Combined Winner 2018 Lead Winner 2018 Combined World Youth Championships 2007 Youth Lead 2008 Juniors Lead 2009 Juniors Lead 2005 Youth Lead 2006 Youth Lead European Championships 2022 Munich Combined 2010 Lead 2013 Bouldering 2017 Lead
Updated on August 5, 2021.

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.^{[citation needed]}

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.^[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).^[2]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.^[3]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.^[4]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.^{[citation needed]}

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics^[5] where he won Bronze.

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport,^[6] and he followed that up by winning the combined event which qualifies him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.^[7]

Rock climbing

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Youth^[9]

Adult^[9]

Climbing European Championships

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Bouldering

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9c (5.15d):

• B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.^[10]

9b+ (5.15c):

• Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – November 9, 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).^[10]

9b (5.15b):

• Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's rute.^[10]
• King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's rute.^[10]
• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.^[10]
• El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.^[10]
• Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013).^[10]
• La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra.^[10]
• Fight or flight – Oliana (ESP) – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).^[10][11]

9a+ (5.15a)

• Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
• Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
• Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
• Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
• Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
• Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
• Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
• Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)^[12]

9a (5.14d):

• Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
• Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
• Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
• Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013^[13]
• Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013^[13]
• Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
• Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
• Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011^[14]
• Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008^[15]
• Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

• Aitzol – Margalef (ESP) – April 23, 2011^[16]

Boulder problems

9A (V17)

• Alphane – Chironico (CHE) – December 21, 2023 ^[17]

8C (V15)

• Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018

8B+ (V14)

• Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed ^[18]
• Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
• Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020