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((Short description|French costume designer (1907–1997)))
((more citations needed|date=June 2017))
((other uses|Jean-Louis))
((Infobox person
| name          = Jean Louis
| image         = Jean Louis 1973 crop.jpg
| caption       = Jean Louis in 1973
| birth_name    = Jean Louis Berthault
| birth_date    = ((Birth date|1907|10|5))
| birth_place   = [[Paris]], France
| death_date    = ((Death date and age|1997|4|8|1907|10|5))
| death_place   = [[Palm Springs, California]], U.S.
| occupation    = Costume designer
| years_active  = 
| spouse        = ((plainlist|
* ((marriage|Marcelle M. Martin|1954|1955|end=died))
* ((marriage|Margaret Fisher|1955|1989|end=died))
* ((marriage|[[Loretta Young]]|1993))
))
))

'''Jean Louis''' (born '''Jean Louis Berthault'''; October 5, 1907 – April 8, 1997) was a French-American costume designer. He won an [[Academy Award for Best Costume Design|Academy Award]] for ''[[The Solid Gold Cadillac]]'' (1956).

==Life and career==
Before coming to Hollywood, he worked in New York for fashion entrepreneur [[Hattie Carnegie]], where the clientele included Joan Cohn, the wife of [[Columbia Pictures]] studio chief [[Harry Cohn]].<ref name=ft>((cite news|last=Foreman|first=Liza|title=Glamour from a 'Gilda' age: How Jean Louis inspired film costumiers|url=http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/c1205342-6bc0-11e2-a700-00144feab49a.html|archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20221211181232/https://www.ft.com/content/c1205342-6bc0-11e2-a700-00144feab49a|archive-date=December 11, 2022|url-access=subscription|access-date=February 24, 2013|newspaper=ft.com|date=February 22, 2013|url-status=live))</ref><ref name="nytimes1997">((cite web|author=ENID NEMY |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1997/04/24/us/jean-louis-89-dressed-stars-and-socialites.html |title=Jean Louis, 89; Dressed Stars and Socialites - The New York Times |work=[[The New York Times]] |date=1997-04-24 |access-date=2018-09-20))</ref>

He worked as head designer for [[Columbia Pictures]] from 1944 to 1960. His most famous works include [[Rita Hayworth]]'s black satin strapless dress from ''[[Gilda]]'' (1946), [[Marlene Dietrich]]'s celebrated beaded souffle stagewear for her [[cabaret]] world tours, as well as the sheer, sparkling gown that [[Marilyn Monroe]] wore when she sang "[[Happy Birthday, Mr. President]]" to [[John F. Kennedy]] in 1962.<ref>((cite web|url=https://www.businessinsider.com.au/how-marilyn-monroe-appeared-nude-in-first-issue-of-playboy-2017-9|title=Happy Birthday, Mr President': the story of Marilyn Monroe and that dress))</ref>

The dress was so tight that he is believed to have actually sewn it while Monroe was wearing it. The idea of a dress being a nude color, with crystals coating it, stunned audiences. It gave the illusion that Monroe was nude, except for discretely placed rhinestones covering her head to toe.((cn|date=July 2020))

Louis had originally designed a version of the dress for [[Marlene Dietrich]], who wore it in her concert shows. An impressed Monroe asked Dietrich about it, who told her how the dress's illusion worked, and sent her to Louis to design a similar dress for her Kennedy appearance. While Dietrich had been seen wearing her version before Monroe, the press coverage surrounding Monroe's appearance at Madison Square Garden in her style of gown swept the globe. This robe became—besides the white one from "The Seven Year Itch"—Marilyn Monroe's most famous robe, selling at auction in 2016 for 4.8 million dollars.<ref>((cite web|url=http://www.today.com/style/marilyn-monroe-s-dress-happy-birthday-mr-president-goes-auction-t103145 |title=Marilyn Monroe's dress from 'Happy Birthday Mr. President' is sold |date=18 November 2016 |publisher=Today.com |access-date=2018-09-20))</ref>

In 1993, four years after the death of his second wife, Louis married former client [[Loretta Young]]; they remained married until his death in 1997.<ref name="nytimes1997"/> He had designed Young's wardrobe for her TV program ''[[The Loretta Young Show]]'' (1953–61), an anthology show noted for Young's show-opening and closing scenes that had viewers tuning in especially to view her high-fashion outfit for that week. Young was known as  the best-dressed actress in America at that time.<ref name=ft/><ref name="Nemy">((cite news|last=Nemy|first=Enid|title=Jean Louis, 89; Dressed Stars and Socialites|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1997/04/24/us/jean-louis-89-dressed-stars-and-socialites.html|date=April 24, 1997|newspaper=New York Times|access-date=October 4, 2013))</ref>

For over forty years, Louis designed clothes for almost every star in Hollywood. Around sixty of his designs appeared in movies, and he was eventually nominated for 13 Academy Awards. Some of his clients included Ginger Rogers, Irene Dunne, [[Lana Turner]], [[Vivien Leigh]], [[Joan Crawford]], [[Julie Andrews]], [[Katharine Hepburn]], and [[Judy Garland]]. Some of his film credits included, ''[[A Star Is Born (1954 film)|A Star Is Born]]'', ''[[Ship of Fools (film)|Ship of Fools]]'', ''[[From Here to Eternity]]'', ''[[Thoroughly Modern Millie]]'', and he won an Oscar for his designs in ''[[The Solid Gold Cadillac]]'' in 1956.<ref name="Nemy"/>

In 1937, a year after Louis immigrated to the United States, he designed the [[Carnegie suit]], a suit that became an icon in the fashion world. The Carnegie suit was one of the first fashions to become very well-liked as an American name design, and its fitted blazer and long pencil skirt was worn by several actresses and society women at the time.<ref name="nytimes1997"/>

The [[Wallis Simpson|Duchess of Windsor]] became one of his most famous clients, as well as the First Lady [[Nancy Reagan]] in the 1980s.<ref name="nytimes1997"/>

==Academy Award nominations==
* 1950 – Film: ''[[Born Yesterday (1950 film)|Born Yesterday]]''
* 1952 – Film: ''[[Affair in Trinidad]]''
* 1953 – Film: ''[[From Here to Eternity]]''
* 1954 – Film: ''[[It Should Happen to You]]''
* 1954 – Film: ''[[A Star Is Born (1954 film)|A Star Is Born]]''
* 1955 – Film: ''[[Queen Bee (film)|Queen Bee]]''
* 1956 – Film: ''[[The Solid Gold Cadillac]]'';  [[29th Academy Awards|Won]]
* 1957 – Film: ''[[Pal Joey (film)|Pal Joey]]''
* 1958 – Film: ''[[Bell, Book and Candle (film)|Bell, Book and Candle]]''
* 1961 – Film: ''[[Judgment at Nuremberg]]''
* 1961 – Film: ''[[Back Street (1961 film)|Back Street]]''
* 1965 – Film: ''[[Ship of Fools (film)|Ship of Fools]]''
* 1966 – Film: ''[[Gambit (1966 film)|Gambit]]''
* 1967 – Film: ''[[Thoroughly Modern Millie]]''

==Actresses designed for==
[[File:Marlene Dietrich on the set of The Montecarlo Story (1956).jpg|thumb|alt=Marlene Dietrich in a Jean Louis Gown.|Gown designed by Jean Louis for [[Marlene Dietrich]] in ''[[The Monte Carlo Story]]'' (1956).]]
*[[Irene Dunne]] in ''[[Together Again (film)|Together Again]]'', 1944
*[[Shirley Temple]] in ''[[Kiss and Tell (1945 film)|Kiss and Tell]]'', 1945
*[[Rita Hayworth]] in ''[[Tonight and Every Night]]'', 1945, ''[[Gilda]]'', 1946, [[Down to Earth (1947 film)|Down To Earth]], 1947, [[The Lady from Shanghai]], 1948, [[The Loves of Carmen (1948 film)|The Loves of Carmen]], 1948, ''[[Affair in Trinidad]]'', 1952, ''[[Miss Sadie Thompson]]'', ''[[Salome (1953 film)|Salome]]'', 1953, [[Pal Joey (film)|Pal Joey]], 1957 and [[They_Came_to_Cordura|They Came to Cordura]], 1959                                               
*[[Claudette Colbert]] in ''[[Tomorrow is Forever]]'' 1946
*[[Judy Holliday]] in ''[[Born Yesterday (play)|Born Yesterday]]'', 1950  and ''[[The Solid Gold Cadillac]]'', 1956 
*[[Lucille Ball]] in ''The Magic Carpet'', 1951                                  
*[[Gloria Grahame]] in ''[[The Big Heat]]'', 1953
*[[Deborah Kerr]] in ''[[From Here to Eternity]]'', 1953
*[[Jane Wyman]] in ''[[Let's Do It Again (1953 film)|Let's Do It Again]]'', 1953                             
*[[Judy Garland]] in ''[[A Star Is Born (1954 film)|A Star is Born]]'', 1954                         
*[[Joan Crawford]] in ''[[Queen Bee (film)|Queen Bee]]'', 1955               
*[[Betty Grable]] in ''[[Three for the Show]]'', 1955
*[[Kim Novak]] in ''[[Picnic (1955 film)|Picnic]]'', 1955, and ''[[Bell, Book, and Candle]]'', 1958                              
* [[Kim Novak]] and [[Rita Hayworth]] in ''[[Pal Joey (film)|Pal Joey]]'', 1957
*[[Lana Turner]] in ''[[Imitation of Life (1959 film)|Imitation of Life]]'', 1959                   
*[[Doris Day]] in ''[[Pillow Talk (film)|Pillow Talk]]'' (1959), ''The Thrill of It All'' (1962), ''[[Send Me No Flowers]]'' (1964) and ''Ballad of Josie'' (1968)                      
*[[Loretta Young]] for ''The Loretta Young Show'', Television series, 1953–1961
*[[Marlene Dietrich]] in ''[[The Monte Carlo Story]]'', 1956, and ''[[Judgment at Nuremberg]]'', 1961
*[[Susan Hayward]] in ''[[Back Street (1961 film)|Back Street]]'', 1961
*[[Marilyn Monroe]] in ''[[The Misfits (1961 film)|The Misfits]]'', 1961, and ''[[Something's Got to Give]]'' (unfinished), 1962
*[[Vivien Leigh]] in ''[[Ship of Fools (film)|Ship of Fools]]'', 1965
*[[Shirley MacLaine]] in ''[[Gambit (1966 film)|Gambit]]'', 1966
*[[Julie Andrews]], [[Mary Tyler Moore]], and [[Carol Channing]] in ''[[Thoroughly Modern Millie]]'', 1967
*[[Eva Gabor]] for ''[[Green Acres]]''  Television series, 1965–1967
*[[Barbara Bel Geddes]] for ''[[Dallas (1978 TV series)|Dallas]]''  Television series, 1978–1984 and 1985–1990 <ref>((cite web|author=David Massey – Goldlion |url=http://www.ultimatedallas.com/backstage/wardrobe.html |title=Official Dallas website Dallas wardrobe and costume on the tv show |publisher=Ultimatedallas.com |access-date=2018-09-20))</ref>

== References ==
((Reflist))

*Hollywood Costume Design/ David Chierchetti, author  ((ISBN|0-517-52637-9))
*In A Glamorous Fashion: The Fabulous Years Of Hollywood Costume Design/ W.Robert Lavine, author ((ISBN|0-684-16610-0))

== External links ==
((Commonscat))
* ((IMDb name|0521872))

((AcademyAwardBestCostumeDesign 1948–1960))
((ACArt))

((DEFAULTSORT:Louis, John))
[[Category:1907 births]]
[[Category:1997 deaths]]
[[Category:French costume designers]]
[[Category:American costume designers]]
[[Category:Best Costume Design Academy Award winners]]
[[Category:French emigrants to the United States]]
[[Category:People from Paris]]

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