Becoming the fourth American climber to send a 5.15b (9b) route
Hong competing in 2019
Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b).[2] As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.[3]
Early life and education
Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers.[4] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle.[5]
In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle[7] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.[8]
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder.[10][11] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to 5.15a (9a+).[12]
