 Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | Japanese | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | May 21, 1997 Tokyo, Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 163 cm (5 ft 4 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 53 kg (117 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | https://mihounonaka.com/ | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Competition bouldering | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winner of Bouldering World Cup in 2018 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on July 8, 2021. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Miho Nonaka (野中 生萌, Nonaka Mihō, born May 21, 1997) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering.[1][2] She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.[3]
Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first World Cup at age 17. She is one of the most successful young climbers on the Bouldering World Cup circuit and started competing in speed and lead[4] in preparation for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, where climbers were to compete in all disciplines.[5][6][7] In 2018, she won the Bouldering World Cup by earning one gold medal and six silver medals in the seven events of that season.[8]
In 2019, she won three Climbing Japan Cup competitions: Bouldering Japan Cup, Speed Japan Cup, and Combined Japan Cup.
In December 2020, Nonaka's qualification for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics was confirmed after a dispute between the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.[9][10][11] In 2022 she won bronze medal at the World Cup in Innsbruck.[12]
| Discipline | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 42 | 55 | - | - | 46 | 23 | 19 | 26 | |
| Bouldering | - | 5 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 1 | 15 | 2 | |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 43 | 30 | ||
| Combined | 5 | - | - | 8 | 3 | 4 |
Youth[2]
| Discipline | 2015 Juniors |
2016 Juniors |
|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 2 | 4 |
Adult[2]
| Discipline | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | - | - | 16 | 26 | 8 |
| Bouldering | 15 | 2 | 5 | 5 | 24 |
| Speed | - | - | 25 | 25 | - |
| Combined | - | - | 5 | 5 | 7 |
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2017 | 1 | 4 | 5 | |
| 2018 | 1 | 6 | 7 | |
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2022 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 4 | 10 | 10 | 24 |
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
On September 15, 2021, Nonaka redpointed Mr. Hyde 8c+ (5.14c) in Céüse, France.[14]
