Offset figure-eight bend
NamesOffset figure-eight bend,
flat figure-eight bend[1],
abnormal figure-eight bend[2]

The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.[1][3][4] The knot may capsize (invert) under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly.[5] Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. Once the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.

An offset figure-eight knot inverting itself

More secure knots for this purpose are the Flemish bend (the "figure eight bend"), (doubled) offset overhand bend, or double fisherman's knot.

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Moyer, Tom (1999-11-09). "Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot"". Rope and Gear Testing. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  2. ^ "Rock Climbing Tech Tips: Joining Two Ropes". Chockstone.org. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  3. ^ "Rappel Knot Fails, Climber Falls to Death on the Goat Wall". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  4. ^ "Fall on Rock, Failure of Rappel-Knot Came Undone, No Hard Hat, West Virginia, Seneca Rocks". Accidents in North American Mountaineering. The American Alpine Club. 1995.
  5. ^ Dahlberg, Robin. "Cross load test of common climbing knots". Vimeo. 0:08-0:35. Retrieved 2020-06-10.
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