Offset figure-eight bend
NamesOffset figure-eight bend,
flat figure-eight bend[1],
abnormal figure-eight bend[2]

The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.[1][3] The knot may invert itself under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly.[4] Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. If the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.

An offset figure-eight knot inverting itself
An offset figure-eight knot inverting itself

More secure knots for this purpose are the Flemish bend (the "figure eight bend"), (doubled) offset overhand bend, or double fisherman's knot.

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Moyer, Tom (1999-11-09). "Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot"". Rope and Gear Testing. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  2. ^ "Rock Climbing Tech Tips: Joining Two Ropes". Chockstone.org. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  3. ^ "Rappel Knot Fails, Climber Falls to Death on the Goat Wall". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  4. ^ Dahlberg, Robin. "Cross load test of common climbing knots". Vimeo. 0:08-0:35. Retrieved 2020-06-10.