Peng Chang-kuei
Born(1919-09-26)September 26, 1919[1]
Shaping-xiang, Changsha County, Hunan province, Republic of China
DiedNovember 30, 2016(2016-11-30) (aged 97)[1]
Taipei, Taiwan
OccupationChef of Hunan cuisine

Peng Chang-kuei (彭長貴, Xiang Chinese: [pən˩˧ tʂan˩˧ kwej˥];[2] September 26, 1919 – November 30, 2016[1]) was a chef specializing in Hunan cuisine. Throughout his culinary career, he based in Hengyang, Chongqing, Taipei and New York City. He was credited to be the creator of General Tso's chicken.

Career in Hunan and Chongqing

Peng was born on September 26, 1919,[1] in Shaping-xiang, Changsha County, Hunan Province, Republic of China.

In 1933, Peng became the apprentice of Cao Jinchen (曹藎臣), the fourth-in-line personal chef of the late Tan Yankai, a Hunan statesman and the former Premier of the Republic of China.[3] Peng followed Cao Jinchen to Hengyang, Hunan, when Cao found his own restaurant Yuloudong (玉樓東).[3][4]

Following the 1938 Changsha fire, Peng and his family moved to Guiyang and finally to Chongqing, the wartime capital. His father and elder brother died on the way.[3] While working in the Hunan restaurant Xiaoxiang Jiudian (瀟湘酒店) in Chongqing,[4] he was offered to be the personal chef of Zeng Guangshan.[3] Zeng, then in her 80s, was a native of Hunan and the granddaughter of Zeng Guofan, the commander of the Xiang Army and the mother of Lt. General Yu Dawei, the head of the Department of Weapons of the Ministry of War.[3][4] He was well connected to the senior figures of the Nationalist government while in Chongqing.[4][3][5] He cofounded Banyating (半雅亭) restaurant in Chongqing.[4]

After the Second Sino-Japanese War, he returned to Changsha. He was married for the first time (he remarried twice in Taiwan).[4] Before the communist takeover of Hunan in September 1949, he parted ways with his mother, wife, and children to follow the Kuomintang's retreat to Taiwan.[4]

Career in Taiwan and New York

In 1952, Peng found the Hunan restaurant Yuloudong (玉樓東) in Taipei, but it was destroyed by fire a few years later.[4] In 1955, he was in charge of the staff restaurant of the Overseas Community Affairs Council of the Republic of China.[4] In 1956, he found two restaurants in Taipei, Tianchanglou (天長樓) and Peng Yuan (彭園).[4] In 1959, he was in charge of the staff restaurant of the Central Bank of the Republic of China.[4] In the 1960s, he cofounded the restaurant Dung Wan Gok (Cantonese: 東雲閣) in Hong Kong, but it was destroyed in a fire five days before its opening.[3]

Peng emigrated to New York City in 1973 and opened his own restaurant, Uncle Peng's Hunan Yuan, near the Headquarters of the United Nations.[6] General Tso's chicken featured in his New York restaurant.[1][6][7][8][9] He returned to Taiwan in the 1980s to open a chain of Peng Yuan restaurants, later opening a branch in his hometown of Changsha.[1][6]

In 2008, Peng was interviewed by Jennifer 8. Lee for the documentary The Search for General Tso (2014).[10][11][12] In the documentary, Peng recalled in 1952 he was invited by the Republic of China Navy to be in charge of a three-day state banquet during Admiral Arthur W. Radford's visit of Taiwan.[11][12] Peng claimed Tso's chicken was served on Radford's menu on the third day.[11][12] According to U.S. diplomatic records, Radford's visit was during June 2–6, 1953.[13] An alternative story proposed by Taiwanese food writer Zhu Zhenfan (2009) claimed Chiang Ching-kuo, the son of President Chiang Kai-shek, paid a late visit to Peng's restaurant when Peng ran out of ingredients. Chiang was served an improvised dish, General Tso's chicken, by Peng.[14]

The earliest news account on Peng was on November 13, 1968, and 15-24 January 1969 under the identical news heading "彭長貴的故事", published by Economic Daily News (經濟日報) in Taipei.[15] It is not clear whether his stories about his invention of the Tso's chicken were featured in those 1968-1969 news report.

Personal life

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Peng was married twice. His first was in Taiwan in 1950 during which he had a son (b. 1953) but divorced shortly after. His married a second time in 1961 and had a son and a daughter.[4] There are claims he had seven children. Peng died from pneumonia in Taipei, Taiwan in November 2016.[7][16]

Notes

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f Langer, Emily (2016-12-02). "Peng Chang-kuei, credited as creator of General Tso's chicken, dies at 97". Washington Post. Archived from the original on 2018-01-07.
  2. ^ 鲍厚星; 崔振华; 沈若云; 伍云姬 (1999). 长沙方言研究. 湖南教育出版社. pp. 83, 85.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g 陳靜宜 (2009-03-01). "彭園掌門人彭長貴 靈感來了就是菜". 聯合報. Archived from the original on 2009-03-15.
  4. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l 林明德 (2016). "彭長貴與彭園湘菜". 料理·台灣. 中華飲食文化基金會. 29 (9). Archived from the original on 2023-03-20.
  5. ^ "Taiwanese chef who invented General Tso's chicken dies, aged 97". The Straits Times. 5 December 2016. Retrieved 29 July 2020.
  6. ^ a b c Grimes, William (2 December 2016). "Peng Chang-kuei, Chef Behind General Tso's Chicken, Dies at 98". New York Times. Retrieved 4 December 2016.
  7. ^ a b Everington, Keoni (2 December 2016). "Inventor of General Tso's Chicken dies in Taipei at age 98". Taiwan News. Archived from the original on 20 February 2021. Retrieved 4 December 2016.
  8. ^ Hanson, Hilary (2016-12-02). "Chef Peng Chang-kuei, General Tso's Chicken Inventor, Dies At 98". The Huffington Post. Retrieved 2016-12-03.
  9. ^ "General Tso's Chicken creator, Chef Peng Chang-Kuei, is dead". NY Daily News. Retrieved 2016-12-03.
  10. ^ 林少予 (2008-02-27). "老美最熟的老中 左宗棠…雞". 聯合報.
  11. ^ a b c "「尋找左宗棠」李鏡找到彭長貴 解開「左宗雞」身世謎". World Journal. New York City. 2019-07-19.
  12. ^ a b c 姚舜 (2014-05-28). "96歲湘菜祖師爺 明再掌廚左宗棠雞". 中國時報.
  13. ^ Jones, Howard P. (1985). "The Chargé in the Republic of China (Jones) to the Department of State". In Mabon, David W.; Schwar, Harriet D. (eds.). Foreign Relations of the United States, 1952–1954, China and Japan, Volume XIV, Part 1 [June 18, 1953]. United States Government Printing Office. p. 206.
  14. ^ 朱振藩 (May 2009). "左宗棠雞人比驕". 歷史月刊: 124. Later compiled in 朱振藩 (December 2009). 食林外史. 麥田出版.
  15. ^ 蕭玫玲 (2016). 民國時期官府菜探討 －以譚延闓與譚祖任為例 [A Study of Officials’ Cuisine in Republican China—Cases of Tan Yan-kai and Tan Zu-ren] (Thesis). Taiwan: National Central University.
  16. ^ Bateman, Joshua (December 6, 2016). "Remembering the Creator of General Tso's Chicken". Time. The chef, who had two children from a marriage in mainland China and five from a second marriage in Taiwan, was 97 years old by Western reckoning.

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