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Sindhi clothing are a part of the Sindhi culture. Sindhi women and men wear the Shalwar Qameez or the Kurta with Pyjama. Women also wear Sari or ghagra. However, before the adoption of the Shalwar kameez, kurta, the Sari as well as other articles of clothing, Sindhis had their own traditional costumes.
Original dress code of Sindhi women was Lehnga Choli with long veil, up until the 1840s, women started wearing the suthan underneath the lehnga, later on around 1930s with time Sindhi women stopped wearing lehnga and only wore Sindhi suthan and choli got replaced by long cholo, and men originally wore Dhoti or Lungi and a long or short angrakho or Jamo later angrakho was replaced by Sindhi kurta called Pehriyan and dhoti/lungi was replaced by Sindhi salwar/suthan/kancha.[1]
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In the past, Older Sindhi women wore paro (petticoat), thick poplin cholo (blouse/Tunic), and chaadar (a sheet of veil). Some wore sleeveless hip length Shirt with a waist-length koti (blouse) with sleeves, on top, and a malai satin, Sussi or Bandhani paro or suthan (culottes or palazzo). The younger women wore velvet or amber pyjama (suthan) both at home and outside. Also they wore a long skirt (jablo) on top and a thick poplin blouse and a Rawa/Gandi/Pothi (long and wide muslin, tie and dye or ajrak printed headscarf/veil). Middle aged and young ladies wore churidar pyjama (sorhi suthan). Over time, older ladies started to wear the Salwar Kurta with Slippers (Sapato, Jutti, Khusso or Mojri).[2][3] When women of good family leave the house, they hide the Suthan under a wide Paro (or Peshgir, petticoat), which conceals the person from the waist to the ankles. Over the upper part of the body they throw a Rawo (or Salur, large white veil). Among females of the Sayyid race, especially in the northern parts of Sindh, wear the Burko/Chadree of Arabia and Persia is much used. Hindoo women wear the Paro larger and longer than the Muslimah; they usually prefer the Cholo without a Gaj, and throw a white veil over the head.[4][5] Sindhi women are fond of wearing a multitude of ornaments. These are also distinguished by some minutiae make in the ornaments and jewels of muslim and hindu, but these are unobservable. The most important ornament for a married muslim sindhi women is the Nath, or bullo/bulli/phuli (Nose jewel) which shows their marital status. In Sindh, the bangles worn peculiar are the large rings of ivory covering the fore arm;[6] these are worn by all sects, religions and classes. But nowadays glass bangles and gold or silver "kangar/Karo" "bracelets" are more commonly used.[4]
The original dress of the Sindhi male was a Dhoti worn by hindu men and "Lungi" (sarong) by muslim men, jamo/angrakho (top) and achhi pagirhi (White Turban) and a block printed shawl called ajrak or other shawls locally made.[3] Men also carry different colored floral/checkered piece of cloth on shoulder or as turban, also used as handkerchief.[2] Rich men wore Sherwanis (long coats) with gold buttons. Some poor men also wore a "Puthiyo or Kiriyo" a cotton jacket resembling a Mirzai of India, with a sash around waist called bhochhan. The Sadri or Phatui (a waistcoat of rich or colored stuffs) was also worn by some men. During a cold season men wore a long coat in the shape of "Kaba" (a long coat made of white cotton, resembling European night shirt) wadded with cotton or a "Nimtano" (a coat of the same description, with arms down to the elbows). The rich are fond of handsome furs; the poor content themselves with afghan posteen a Masho, or Chogho (cloak made of felt goat's and camel's hair). The slippers were of two kinds 1st "Jutti", made of red or yellow leather, in shape not unlike those worn by the Egyptians, and 2nd, "Ghetalo" of the same material embroidered with cloth or silk. Wealthy men when travelling, wear a kind of leather top boot called "Mozo", in the hills a sole made of the leaves of a kind of dwarf palm called "Teesh" was used to protect the feet.[7] The traditional clothes of Sindh can still be seen on men and women today.
The Sindhi culture is one of the most diverse cultures of the world, the traditional clothes of Sindhi people are various, which differs from region to region, tribe to tribe even sometimes within tribe it differs a bit, as much as that clothes become a mark of identification of one's region and tribe, specially for a Sindhi women clothes. For Sindhi men, Sindhi style Salwar Khamis are common everyday dress nowadays, Sindhi Salwar/Suthan have very less pleats, other style of salwar is Kancha which has wide (Pancha) cuffs, used to be worn back in time,[7] Sindhi Khamis is usually shorter, before the adoption of Khamis, Sindhi men used to wear Short angrakho called Angelo, later Sindhi Pehriyan/Peheren (collarless Kurta tunic) tied at either side or in center resembling Sindhi Angelo was common, both Angelo and Pehriyan was sometimes used to be embroidered with Sindhi Bhart (embroideries) and mirrorwork. Sindhi men also wear embroidered vests (Ganji) under the Khamis. Some men in rural areas wear Sindhi lungi (only muslims) called "Godd", whereas hindus wore Dhoti or Treto and a long Jama.[8] With clothes Sindhi men wore Sindhi patko or pagg (turban), youngsters wore Sindhi cap. Different shawls like Ajrak, Lungee (silk, cotton and wool made shawls) or any other locally made shawls or handkerchiefs were carried on shoulders.
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During the medieval period and prior to the Mughal rule, the costumes worn by the people of Sindh resembled the dresses worn in Iraq and adjoining countries.[9][10] The dresses included short tunics and Iraqi style long robes. If any drawers were used, they were of the Iraqi style, such as the pantaloons which were also adopted in neighbouring Multan and also in the coastal areas of Gujarat.[11] However, the use of such Iraqi clothes in Sindh was limited to Mansura,[12] the Arab capital city, established in 712 C.E.[13] and was not universally adopted throughout the region. Arab rule in Sindh ended in 1050 C.E.[14] Further, alongside these dresses, Sindhis also wore other traditional attire.
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| Type | Dress |
|---|---|
| Introduced | Historic |
The traditional Sindhi drawers are the shalwar[15] style adopted from Iraq[16] and neighbouring countries. The Sindhi shalwar, also called kancha,[17] can be described as wide pantaloons[11] which do not begin to gather at the knees as does the modern Sindhi suthan, and are wide at the ankles.[17] The Sindhi shalwar is plaited at the waist.[18] Both garments are loose down to the ankles, where they are gathered. Both garments have the same origins in the pantaloons of Iraq,[19][20] which are still worn by the Kurds.[21][22] The Sindhi suthan resembles with pants of kurds, whereas Sindhi kancha resembles with Bakhtiari lur people of Iran.
The Sindhi shalwar however, was not universally adopted in the region, where it was limited to Mansura. In time too, Arab rule which introduced the Iraqi dress, ended in the 11th century. Accordingly, the traditional Sindhi shalwar qamees.
It is not until the migration of people from Balochistan beginning during the 15th century C.E.[23] and picking up pace during the 18th century C.E.[24] that the use of the shalwar in Sindh was introduced on a wide level. However, the Sindhi shalwar, as the earlier version worn in Mansura, is not as wide and loose as the Balochi shalwar, which is very wide and loose.[25]
A suthan is traditionally tight fitting below the knees or around the ankles whereas any style of shalwar is loosely gathered at the ankles and does not tighten towards the lower parts of the legs.
Although it was not customary for women to wear the suthan during the early 19th century, men were seen wearing the traditional pantaloon style Sindhi shalwar/suthan during this period.[26] However, the suthan was not universally adopted by members of all religions to begin with,[27] but in 1872 it was noted that the use had spread to a wider audience.[28]
Sindhi women are fond of rich and expensive clothes. The wealthier orders have a number of dresses made of brocades, gold and silver stuffs, fine velvets, painted silks, satins, and other such articles of luxury. Married and unmarried girls usually dress in bright colors like red, pink, maroon, purple, blue, orange, green etc colours; old women and widows wear white or neutral colors.[4]
Sindhi women traditionally wore different styles, fabrics and embroideries of Sindhi Cholo/Choli with Soossi Shalwars or Pajamo under bandhani, Sossi, printed or satin made Skirt and a long veil (Rao, Gandhi, Poti), today Sindhi women most commonly wear the Sindhi Salwar and Cholo with a long and wide veil having Sindhi embroideries called bhart. Bhart varies from tribe to tribe and region to region, Traditional dress called Paro/Jablo/Peshgir/Ghaghro/Ghaghri (Skirt) Cholo/Choli/Polko/Kanjeeri (tunic) is also worn today in some parts of Sindh, some muslim women wear Cholo instead of Choli a long and loose tunic reaching below knees or sometimes till ankles, Sindhi traditional women clothes are most vibrant and colorful with Sindhi embroideries and mirror work, the various local floral prints, the Bandhani fabric (tie and dye technique, which is believed to be originated from Sindh), the block printed fabric and the Sussi fabric is also very famous of Sindh. A full embroidered front of Cholo tunic is called Gaj. Some Sindhi jat and Memon women in "Lar" region of Sindh wear a long thobe like dresses called "Jubo" in Sindhi, while others wear frocks with Sindhi Gaj embroidery called (Âggoti), and some baloch & Sindhi women in Sindh wear a frock like dress with a pocket infront called (Ghagho meaning frock in Sindhi).[29] The traditional clothes are worn with traditional silver and gold jewellery as well, The white full arm bangles are famous from Mohenjo-daro, originally made out of ivory but today made from plastic.
Before the advent of the suthan and Sindhi cholo, the traditional dress was lengha (jablo) choli which is still worn by women in various parts of Sindh. Women in the Tharparkar district wear a ghagra, a heavier version of the lehnga, with either a loose or fitted choli,[30] or a kancera, a fully embroidered, backless blouse, held on by small cap sleeves and strings.[31]
Another upper garment is the gaji (pullover shirt) which is worn in the mountain areas of Sindh. The gaji is composed of small, square panels, embroidered on silk and sequins. The neck line of the gaji is cut high, and round on one side, with a slit opening extending the other. Unmarried girls wear the opening to the back and married women, to the front.[31]
The original outfit does not require a woman to wear a suthan underneath the lengha, and up until the 1840s, the skirt was commonly worn on its own.[32] Accordingly, the suthan for women is a relatively late adoption.[33] In parts of Sindh, the skirt is worn without the suthan.[34]
By the 1930s,[1] the suthan, similar to the Shalwar became the traditional lower garment worn by women in Sindh.[35] The Sindhi suthan, also called chareno, is similar to the Punjabi suthan of the Punjab region,[36] is heavily pleated, voluminous on the thighs, slightly narrowed on the knees, gathered in at the instep[17] and pleated to the ankles.[37][38][39]
The Sindhi suthan was traditionally accompanied by the Sindhi Cholo (tunic) and Paro (petticoat/Ghagra)[40][41] but now is worn with a cholo (kameez) only which is loose fitting,[42] and is made in a variety of ways, including the traditional method of the cholo opening at the front to the waist,[43][44] with very wide sleeves.[45] The traditional cholo can reach down to the ankles.[46]
Women generally wear a dupatta or odani (Veil) with the Sindhi suthan and Sindhi cholo suit to cover their head and shoulders. In the past, women wore a thin muslin scarf (rawa) bigger than the present day dupattas.[2]
Very loose ankle length garment in hand loom or hand-blocked material with a hood attached, with tie string at "V" opening in the neck and side slits at lower part extending to lower hem. Worn with or without hood in the villages of Sindh and can also be embroidered.[47][48]
The Saluka is a tight fitting waistcoat which was worn by some Sindhi and the Punjabi women.[49]
Gaj are a traditional embroidered tunics. It is a solid embroidery with mirrorwork, pompoms, sequins, cowries, shells, beads and buttons over the woman's shirt it usually covers the area, starting from neck up to the stomach. It incorporates variety of stitches and colors. Sometimes, it is made on separate piece of cloth and then attached to the garment.
Saris were and are only worn by Sindhi Lohana, Waniya, Khatri and Brahmin Hindu women,[8] the educated and trading communities of Sindhi hindu women who adopted Sarees from other regions of India.[50] In the 20th century, Sindhi women took to wearing net and chiffon sarees embroidered with gold or silver thread, and velvet blouses. Sometimes georgette sarees were paired with crocheted blouses In Sindh sarees were draped both ways in front pallu and back pallu saree style.
Some educated Memon, Shaikh and Khuwaja community women also wear Saris on special occasions like weddings, parties, events etc.[51][52]
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The other outfit worn by males is the modern Sindhi Suthan with the traditional Peheren (Sindhi shirt) which is also called Angerkho,[1] a short form of the Kurta and fastened to the side.[53] An alternative name for the top is Angeli which is short and left or right crossed, covering the chest, the shoulders and the arms. The sleeves are long and pleated. Large and wide pleats cover the belly.[37] The other upper garment is the traditional garment similar to a long gown.[54]
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Main article: Sindhi cap |
Sindh has its own variety of hats/caps and turbans.
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There are three different kinds of turbans:[7]
The lower orders prefer clothes dyed with indigo to white dresses[7] as latter show dirt too much, some people especially Fakirs, Dervishs and malangs wear green, black, red and orange color turbans. The black color is associated with Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai, Red color with Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, orange with Sachal Sarmast, and green with Shah Noorani, these all are sufi saints of Sindh.
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Ajrak: the block printed shawl known as Ajrak used by men, the ancient Indus Valley Civilization art of Sindh, the traditional ajrak has various designs of maroon or crimson, white and black color, it is a symbol of Sindhi culture.[58]
Maleer: a block printed ajrak for women and bridegrooms (doshalo),[59] sometimes it is embroidered with mirrorwork, in today's times various designs and colors of maleer are worn by women as modern clothes like salwar kameez, sarees, jackets etc.[60][61]
Lungi/Lungee: made of silk, cotton and wool, in both bright and soft colours with beautifully woven broad borders of silver and gold thread. The use of bright, bold and vibrant colors with gold zari on the Lungi make its worth and significance, these are worn as shawl and as turbans on ceremonious occasions.[62][63]
Sindhi khadi/thari shawls: these are handwoven khadi shawls worn in winters, these are most beautiful usually in black and white colors with multi color stripes, other colors are also used for making these shawls.[64][65][66]
Abochhini: are beautiful shiny silk embroidered with mirrorwork wedding shawls for brides in Sindh.
Loi/Loee: these are simple handwoven lightweight winter shawls, these are made usually in cream colors.[67]
Sindhi Rawa/Chadars: Sindhi traditional dupattas are long and wide, which are beautifully embroidered with mirrorwork on plain, printed or bandhani cloth, today worn when women go outdoors to cover their head and body.[68]
Men and women wear the straight cut Punjabi[69] shalwar kameez using local prints, embroideries and designs.
The Sindhi kurta is the traditional straight cut variety worn in neighbouring Punjab[70][71] which is becoming increasingly popular in Sindh[72] but uses local patterns to embroidery the garment and also makes use of mirrors. The local art of bandhani (creating patterned textiles by resisting parts of a fabric by tying knots on it before it is dyed) is utilised which is believed to have originated in Sindh and spread to Gujarat via Rajasthan[73] and is also practiced in the Punjab region. Sindhi kurtas are also made out of heavy applique called "Tuk" and the kurtas are often called Tuk kurtas.[74] Ajrak prints are also used.
Western clothes are also worn by young boys and girls.
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