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((Short description|Traditional Japanese outfit worn those in the Japanese imperial court))
((more citations needed|date=February 2014))
((Italic title))
[[File:Emperor Akihito 199011 1.jpg|thumb|right|Emperor [[Akihito]] wore the imperial ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) ((transliteration|ja|((ill|Kōrozen no Gohō|ja|黄櫨染御袍)))) at the [[Enthronement of the Japanese emperor|enthronement ceremony]] in November 1990.]]
The ((nihongo||束帯|'''sokutai''')) is a traditional [[Japan]]ese [[Japanese clothing|outfit]] worn only by [[courtier]]s, [[Aristocracy|aristocrats]] and the [[Emperor of Japan|emperor]] at the [[Imperial court in Kyoto|Japanese imperial court]]. The ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) originated in the [[Heian period]], and consists of a number of parts, including the ((transliteration|ja|ho)) (outer robe), ((nihongo||笏|[[shaku (ritual baton)|shaku]])), a flat ritual baton or [[sceptre]], and the ((nihongo||冠|[[kanmuri (headwear)|kanmuri]])), a cap-shaped black lacquered silk hat with a [[pennon]].<ref name=":0">((Cite web|title=Dress - Japan|url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing|access-date=2021-03-24|website=Encyclopedia Britannica|language=en))</ref> 

The exact composition of the ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) differs from person to person, and depends on a person's rank and whether they are a civil or military official, with military officers wearing the garment's outermost layers with split front and back panels, and civil officials having fully sewn panels. Colour also varies by rank, with colour symbolism having held great importance in Heian period Japan.

No longer worn as everyday clothing, the ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) is preserved as formalwear worn by male members of the Imperial court, including the [[Imperial House of Japan|Imperial family]] and government officials, such as the [[Prime Minister of Japan|Prime Minister]]. The ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) is typically reserved for the most formal occasions, such as [[wedding]]s and [[Enthronement of the Japanese Emperor|enthronement]] ceremonies. On such occasions, women such as an empress or princess wear a ((transliteration|ja|[[jūnihitoe]])), the ((transliteration|ja|sokutai))'s female counterpart.

The Japanese emperor's court dress is made up of loose-fitting white trousers and a loose yellow outer robe that is styled after a Chinese robe but is tucked in at the waist, and decorated with the textile pattern consist of [[Fenghuang]], [[Paulownia]], Bamboo and [[Qilin|Kirin]]. When wearing the sokutai, the emperor carries an ivory tablet, inspired by the Chinese [[Hu (ritual baton)|Hu]], which was carried by Chinese emperors as a symbol of imperial power.<ref>((cite web | url=https://www.iz2.or.jp/fukushoku/f_disp.php?page_no=0000165 | title=黄櫨染の御袍 |publisher=Costume Museum |language=ja |access-date=12 August 2023 ))</ref><ref>((cite web | url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/sokutai | title=Sokutai &#124; Traditional, Ceremonial, Formal &#124; Britannica ))</ref>

== Structure ==
[[File:Sokutai in Heian period.png|thumb|''Sokutai'' of the [[Heian period|Heian Period]] (794-1185)]]

a:((nihongo||冠|Kanmuri))<br>
b:((nihongo||袍|Hō))<br>
c:((nihongo||飾太刀|Kazari Tachi))<br>
d:((nihongo||笏|Shaku))<br>
e:((nihongo||平緒|Hirao))<br>
f:((nihongo||下襲|Shitagasane))<br>
g:((nihongo||表袴|Omote Bakama))<br>
h:((nihongo||大口袴|Ōkuchi Bakama))

==Colour symbolism==
[[File:Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako in formal wedding robes.jpg|thumb|Newly-wed [[Naruhito|Emperor Naruhito]], then Crown Prince, wearing the princely ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) ((transliteration|ja|((ill|Ōni no Hō|ja|黄丹袍)))) and holding a ((transliteration|ja|shaku)), 9 June 1993]]
Similarly to the ((transliteration|ja|[[jūnihitoe]])), the ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) uses colour symbolism, though unlike the ((transliteration|ja|jūnihitoe)), colours are more restricted, specifically denoting [[List of Japanese court ranks, positions and hereditary titles|court rank]]:

# First rank: purple
# Second rank: purple
# Third rank: purple
# Fourth rank: maroon
# Fifth rank: crimson
# Sixth rank: dark green
# Seventh rank: light green
# Eighth rank: dark blue
# Basic rank (ranks below eighth): light blue

Persons without rank typically wear mud brown or light yellow; the darker, fuller shade of yellow was reserved for the emperor. Though exact shades varied highly, with a number of colours detailed as having minuscule shade differences and thus different names, the highest-ranking shades were all achieved through dyeing fabric with the [[Lithospermum erythrorhizon|gromwell]] plant, an expensive and prolonged process that could take over a year to achieve.<ref>((cite web |url=https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1473&context=tsaconf |title=The Impact of Synthetic Dyes on the Luxury Textiles of Meiji Japan |last=Parmal |first=Pamela A. |year=2004 |publisher=Textile Society of America |type=Symposium Proceedings (474) |format=pdf |access-date=2 September 2021 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200721104553/https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1473&context=tsaconf |archive-date=21 July 2020 |quote=The roots [of the plant] are collected and dried for two to three months to mature the color. While this occurs, the silk is pre-mordanted((nbsp))[...] the mordanting process involves repeated immersion of the cloth or yarn in the alum bath and drying over a two- or three-month period. To prepare the dyestuff, the gromwell roots are softened overnight in 60°[celsius] water and then pounded to release the dye. The silk is then repeatedly immersed in the bath, aired to allow more oxygen to penetrate the cloth and then steeped in the dye until the desired color is achieved. When the dyeing is completed the cloth is placed in dark storage for as long as a year while the color continues to mature.))</ref> Due to the difficulty of obtaining a number of dyestuffs used to produce the purple and maroon colours worn by the highest-ranked officials, these colours were changed to black sometime during the Heian period.((fact|date=July 2022))

==Composition==
The innermost layer of the ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)) was the ((nihongo3|((lit|short sleeve))|小袖|[[kosode]])), a white garment that covered the wearer to knee level. This was worn with a pair of ((transliteration|ja|ōkuchi-[[hakama]])), a pair of long red ((transliteration|ja|hakama)) worn on top of the ((transliteration|ja|kosode)) and tied off to the wearer's left. Similarly to the ((transliteration|ja|jūnihitoe)), which used a white ((transliteration|ja|kosode)) and a pair of red ((transliteration|ja|hakama)) as a base layer, both of these would have been worn as both undergarments and sleeping clothes.

A ((transliteration|ja|hitoe)) (((lit|unlined garment))) was worn over the top of the ((transliteration|ja|kosode)) as an upper garment; a number of layers of ((transliteration|ja|akome)) were worn above the ((transliteration|ja|hitoe)), the exact number and fabric of which varied based on the season. The ((transliteration|ja|ue-no-bakama)), a shorter white hakama with an open fly, was worn above the ((transliteration|ja|akome)), tied off to the right. The ((transliteration|ja|shitagasane)), a typically white garment with the characteristic "tail" of the ((transliteration|ja|sokutai)), was worn on top of the ((transliteration|ja|akome)), covering the upper body of the wearer. The ((transliteration|ja|hampi))—a sleeveless vest often featuring embroidery—was worn over all these layers. The final outer robe—the ((transliteration|ja|ho))—was then worn over the ((transliteration|ja|hampi)); this outer robe followed the design of the Chinese ((transliteration|zh|[[Yuanlingshan|yuanlingpao]])) in its cut, but with a distinctively Japanese style, with the robe tucked at the waist, such that the hemline ends midway between the knees and floor.<ref name=":0" />

== References ==
((reflist))

== External links ==
((Commons category))
*[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/wayou/index.htm The Costume Museum | The Heian Period]
*[http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9068548/sokutai Encyclopædia Britannica: ((transl|ja|Sokutai))]

((Japanese clothing))

((Use dmy dates|date=March 2017))

[[Category:Japanese full-body garments]]
[[Category:Robes and cloaks]]
[[Category:Court uniforms and dress]]
[[Category:Japanese words and phrases]]


((japan-culture-stub))
((fashion-stub))

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