Wat Sen, Luang Prabang
Haw Kam

Luang Prabang (Lao: ຫຼວງພຣະບາງ, pronounced Loo-ang pah-bang and also spelled Louangphrabang, is the former capital of Laos and a UNESCO World Heritage city.

Understand

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Set at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the town, and beneath a temple-topped hill, Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture, reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochina. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wrap-around teak balconies and 19th-century shuttered windows. All of this is set against a backdrop of verdant greenery and rugged mountains.

Luang Prabang is a relatively small city with an atmospheric and charming personality. With UNESCO so closely involved and a largely responsible group of local business owners, the pressures of mass tourism have been held at bay, but for how much longer remains to be seen. Restaurants in the main street cater for luxury tourists. More typical Lao venues can still be found along the Mekong.

History

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Luang Prabang rose to prominence as the capital of the first Lao kingdom (Lan Xang, land of the million elephants) from 1353. The city owes its present name to the Pha Bang, a revered Buddha image (now in the Royal Palace Museum) which was brought to the city by King Visoun during the golden age of Lan Xang in the early 1500s.

The fragmentation of the Lao kingdom at the end of the 16th century left Luang Prabang a militarily weak independent city state paying tribute to surrounding kingdoms. The 1887 sacking of the city by the Chinese Haw led the Luang Prabang monarchy to accept the protection of the French, whose influence led to the construction of the many fine colonial villas that sit harmoniously alongside traditional Lao architecture.

The city fell into decline in the latter half of the 20th century following the reluctant withdrawal of the French, and the 1975 revolution which brought an end to the Luang Prabang monarchy. The relative poverty of newly independent Laos perhaps helped save Luang Prabang from the ravages of 20th-century city planning.

The reopening of Laos to tourism in 1989 resulted in a remarkable turnaround in the city's fortunes, as crumbling timber houses and colonial mansions were sensitively restored and transformed into immaculate guesthouses and boutique hotels. In 1995 the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Get in

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By plane

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Visa-on-Arrival is available at the airport, costing US$40 (as of 2022) for most eligible countries, and $20 for citizens of China or Vietnam, plus an extra $1 service fee. You need a passport photo to obtain a visa. If you don't have one, they'll scan your picture from your passport and charge you an additional US dollar.

ASEAN nationals do not need a visa to enter Laos for stays not exceeding 30 days.

Visa extensions are possible at the immigration office opposite the Rama Hotel. The cost is US$2/day plus a US$2 form fee. The process is very easy. Turn up in the morning with your passport and one photo. Fill in a form (in Luang Prabang they do this for you) and come back in the afternoon for your extension.

A tuk-tuk costs 80-100,000 kip (Mar 2020). There is a taxi counter at the exit of the arrival hall. Taxis are a flat rate of 80,000 kip for 1–2 people (as of Dec 2022). If you're traveling light, a walk from the airport to the town center takes about 1 hour.

There are four ATMs just outside the arrival hall.

By train

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Luang Prabang railway station

Five high-speed, standard-gauge trains run daily from Vientiane via Phonhong and Vang Vieng, taking two hours to Luang Prabang. Three or four continue north to Muang Xay, Luang Namtha and Boten on the border with China. Another train crosses, allowing four hours for border formalities at Boten / Mo Han, then onward to Kunming South Station for high-speed connections across China. The southbound train leaves Kunming at 08:00 to reach Luang Prabang by 15:50 and Vientiane for 17:40.

Train is by far the fastest, most comfortable way to reach Luang Prabang, the problem has been short booking horizons and sold-out trains. See Laos#By train for the latest and consider booking through a travel agent.

2 Luang Prabang railway station is 12 km east of the old city. A seat on a shared minibus costs a fixed 40,00 kip ($2, January 2024). You find the minibuses once you leave the train station and go down the stairs. There's a tent where you can buy the tickets for the minibus. To get to the station from the city center, have your guesthouse or hostel call the minivan for you (do not follow the timetable from the van stop). The railway station is huge and clean. As of January 2024, there are toilets, Cafe Amazon and a small shop to buy drinks and snacks, as well as two ATMs outside the station entrance (to your left.)

By bus

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There are three bus stations, each a little bit out of the city, which serve different directions. Tuk-tuk drivers know which bus station to go to for which destination. Ask around for bus schedules.

Tickets can be bought at every travel agent in the city, which makes more sense than buying them at the bus station as there is only a difference of roughly 20,000 kip, which pays for the tuk-tuk from your accommodation to the bus station. Pick those agencies which absorb the shuttle ride from the fare quote as others do not. Compare quotes before booking. Book tickets in advance, particularly for VIP buses as they have reserved seats. You don't want to end up sitting next to the toilet.

The bus follows Rte 13 south, which has been upgraded and is now pretty comfortable. Comparing pluses and minuses for VIP sleeper/VIP seats to Express for night trips, not much difference. If taking the trip at night, there is no need for air-con. Those prone to motion sickness should know that this trip travels a winding, mountainous road.
For seats-only buses, there is no toilet and you should relieve yourself before departing because the stopover at the restaurant is 4 hours away, and the last is at the destination station. Check though, because not all tour companies offer free pick-up from a passenger's residence in the quoted price. Bus Station (southern) is about 3.2 km away by walking from the tourist area and a tuk tuk-costs about 20,000 kip (Feb 2012). Same thing with the Northern Bus Station, it's a more than 5-km walk.

BanNaluang Bus Station (South Bus Station)

To Departs Kip Duration (hr) Comments Updated
Sainyabuli 09:00, 14:00 100,000 Jan 2023
Phonsavan (Local) 08:30 80,000 Jun 2011
Phonsavan (air-con) 08:30 95,000 Mar 2020
Phonsavan (VIP) 08:30 120,000 Mar 2020
Vang Vieng (air-con) 09:30 90,000 6-7 hr Jun 2011
Vang Vieng (VIP) 09:30 105,000 Jun 2011
Vientiane (Local) 06:30, 08:30, 11:00, 14:00, 16:30, 17:00, 18:30 110,000 Jun 2011
Vientiane (VIP) 08:00, 09:00 (?), 19:30, 20:30 145,000 12 hr Jun 2013
Vinh (Vietnam) W and Sa, 18:30 200,000 Jun 2011
Hanoi (Vietnam) Daily except Th, 18:00 360,000 24 hr May 2012

A shared tuk-tuk from the South station to your hotel in town will cost 20,000 kip per person (Mar 2020).

By car

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Hwy 13 connects Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and Vientiane in the south and via Hwy 1 to the north. Hwy 13 is sealed and in relatively good shape during dry season all the way to Vientiane. Simply put, it is a long, bumpy and winding road trip. The road smacks of a lunar landscape and there are countless potholes due to poor quality surface, the top layer eroded to reveal the gravelly underlayer, which means a really bumpy ride. Although there have been incidents of violence along this stretch of road, it is now safe.

By boat

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Boats ply the Mekong to and from Huay Xai at the Thai border, stopping in Pakbeng where you can catch overland connections towards the northeast and the border with China. The trip takes 2 days (each day about 9 hours) by slow boat, or 6 bone-rattling hours by speedboat. There are also operators offering 2-day "luxury" cruises.

Expect to spend the night in Pakbeng if you're taking a slow boat (the safest option), or to arrive in Luang Prabang deaf, shaken and either exhausted or exhilarated from six hours in a speedboat. There is also a twice-weekly "one day comfortable boat" between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, but the cost is significantly higher.

Slow boats

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Slow boats leave every day, the last one at 11:00. The trip from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai costs at least 220,000 kip (Mar 2014), the trip to Luang Prabang from Huay Xai costs 900 baht (Sep 2011). The slow boat leaves Luang Prabang at about 08:30, from a pier that is 10 km away from the town centre (a tuk-tuk costs 50-60 baht per person) and arrives around 18:00 at Pakbeng. It is common to have to switch to a different boat in Pakbeng, so you may end up in a boat of higher or lower quality for the second half of the journey. Two day boats have comfortable (car) seats and it is no longer necessary to purchase any cushions. Arriving in Huay Xai, it's best to take a quick tuk-tuk from the border crossing to the city centre for 50 baht.

The slow boat is generally packed, so much so that there may not enough seats to go round. Arriving early will mean a longer day, but most likely a better seat, towards the front and away from the engine.

The slow boat trip proceeds in a pleasant 20–30 km/hr and offers nice views of nature and village life on the banks of the Mekong. Most of the passengers are foreign tourists. Occasional locals take the boat only for short hops between the riverside villages, but prefer to take the bus for the full distance from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. So you won't be able to observe any local boat travellers, as the boat ride offers just the usual sight of tourists drinking Beerlao for 20,000 kip.

As of January 2022, Huay Xay-Pakbeng-Luang Prabang tickets purchased directly at the slow boat pier are 220,000 kip, which is a bargain for one of the most scenic trips in the world. There is no need to book ahead a 2-day ticket all the way to Luang Prabang in Huay Xay. You can also just buy a ticket to Pakbeng (125 kkip) and the onward journey to Luang Prabang upon boarding in Pakbeng (115 kkip). See the Pakbeng page for more information on the slowboats.

There is no public boat service to Vientiane, but it may be possible to do the trip by private tourist boat when the water levels are high enough. Read more about fast and slow boats in the Laos country guide.

Speedboats

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If you choose to travel on the speedboat (a light canoe with a very powerful engine), a crash helmet and life-jacket should be provided. It is not recommended you travel in a speedboat without this essential safety equipment. It is also recommended that you make your bags as waterproof or water-resistant as possible and wear a rain jacket. The boat can generate quite a bit of spray, plus any showers you might encounter along the way will sting like needles against any exposed skin. On sunny days, sunscreen is invaluable as there is no roof or shade on these speed machines. The journey to Huay Xai can be reduced to as few as 4 hours in the wet season, with a lunch stop at Pak Beng. However, some consider this means of transportation less safe, especially in the dry season. Earplugs are strongly recommended. Those who are concerned about creating as little environmental impact as possible may want avoid speedboats, as they are heavier polluters than the slower options. Travel agents in LP will sell the tickets for 320,000-370,000 kip. You will need a minivan to take you the 10 km north to the fast boat pier.

There seems to be a reluctance to take foreigners on the speedboat. You sit there watching as speedboat after speedboat leaves without you on them. The phrases "come back tomorrow" and "just wait, wait", are repeated a lot. If you are in a hurry, an extra payment may encourage an earlier departure. This is definitely not a means of transport to be relied on. It is a good idea to work out with your fellow boat passengers to remove the seat dividers in the fast boat which allow you more space to move around as long as you don't mind a bit of contact. It will be better than being jammed in one place for the whole trip. The speed boats have been pulling a scam where you are dropped off 10 km outside of Luang Prabang at a small bamboo dock. Refuse to get off here and force them to take you two minutes further down river to the Luang Prabang boat dock. If you are forced to get off before Luang Prabang, the tuk-tuk driver may demand up to US$15 per person. The cost should not be more than US$5 for everyone in your party, but the tuk-tuk is your only option into town.

Luxury cruise

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The third option is to take a luxury cruise. The major operators are Luang Say, Nagi of Mekong, and Shompoo, all of which operate two-day cruises from/to Huay Xai that stop in Pakbeng for the night. Although the journey takes as long as taking the slow boat, these operators offer vastly superior facilities and equipment than public slow boats, and you should be prepared to pay a premium for it. Tickets for all operators can be bought at most travel agents in town. Prices per person, including twin-share accommodation in Pak Beng, vary from US$160 (Nagi) to US$425 (Luang Say), but prices fluctuate widely depending on season and demand.

All cruises follow roughly the same itinerary. Departure from Huay Xai pier is around 9 AM, with a stop to observe rural life along the Mekong and observe minorities. The journey to Pakbeng takes 7 to 8 hours, arriving in Pakbeng before sunset. On the second day the boat leaves at 08:00. A short stop is made to visit a hilltribe village where you can watch the traditional process of Lao whisky production. After lunch the boat stops at Pak Ou village at the mouth of the Nam Ou River, where you visit the Tam Thing Caves of a Thousand Buddhas. The boat arrives at Luang Prabang between 16:00 and 17:00.

Get around

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Map
Map of Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang's Old Town is only about 1.5 km long and 500 meters wide, which makes it small enough to comfortably cover on foot, and this is in fact the only way to climb Phousi Hill. The city is also quite flat, which makes cycling an attractive option, although the ever-increasing traffic makes this dangerous at times.

For longer trips, your options are basically negotiating with open-air tuk-tuks, or arranging a tour package with your hotel or a travel agent, which will likely see you crammed into one of the ubiquitous silver Toyota minivans. (Large buses and trucks are both banned in the old town.) Prices for both are always per person unless you explicitly negotiate a charter. Loca ridehailing is also available.

See

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Arts and crafts

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Local landmarks and culture

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Alms ceremony

Outside the city

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The main cascade at Kuang Si
Cascading pools at Kuang Si

The stunning Kuang Si Falls are Luang Prabang's top natural attraction. Cascading through multi-level limestone terraces, the color of the water usually varies between milky blue and a deep turquoise, although after heavy rains they can temporarily turn brown. Tuk-tuks and tours deposit you at the parking area, from where free electric golf carts next to the ticket booths shuttle around 1 km up the hill at the park entrance. From here, take the signposted "Discovery Trail" to the right, which takes you through the Bear Rescue Centre (below) to the base of the waterfalls.

There are three tiered pools that are safe for swimming, although you'll want to wear sandals or reef shoes since the rubble can be sharp. There are some basic toilets can be used as changing rooms, as well as the pleasant Green Jungle restaurant that serves up fried rice and the like ($2 and up). If you keep going up, you'll get to the main waterfall that cascades down from a height of nearly 60 meters, a gorgeous sight especially after rain when it fans out. The paved road to the left of the park entrance leads directly here, so it's also where all the tour groups are shunted, and there are plenty of picnic tables if you've packed a lunch.

A small trail to the left leads to the top of the waterfalls, where you'll find a few more pools and a guy with a boat offering a short punt up to the river. Beware that the signposted route way down the other side of the falls is much steeper than the way up and can be extremely muddy and slippery, so do not attempt this after rain or without proper shoes.

A seat on a shared tuk-tuk to the falls and back including 3–4 hours waiting time costs around US$6, while a private charter for 4-5 runs around US$22–25. The same in an air-conditioned minivan runs around US$12/50 shared/chartered. It's worth getting here as early as you can to beat the crowds and the heat, although the forest is nice and shady. The road is twisty but fully paved and takes around 45 minutes one way, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops both at the ticketing point and the park entrance. Every travel agent and hotel in Luang Prabang also runs Kuang Si tours, which typically tack on a mediocre lunch and a visit to one of the elephant centers.

Do

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Learn

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Cooking classes

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This is an enjoyable way to gain insights into Lao culinary methods and traditions. There are four substantial cooking class providers in the city, using Lao chefs and instructors. They differ somewhat in style and content, but all include transport, information about Lao cuisine, and eating the dishes afterwards.

Some of the hotels and guesthouses in town also offer small or private cooking classes for their guests.

Farm visit

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Buy

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Thai baht and USD are widely accepted but the exchange rates vary. There are some ATMs that accept Visa, MasterCard, Maestro and Eurocards. These ATMs are mostly on Sisavangvong Rd near the end of the Night Market. The ATMs dispense currency in Lao kip, and generally allow a maximum withdrawal of 1,000,000 kip with a charge of 20,000 kip. Banque Franco-Lao allows a maximum withdrawal of 2,000,000 kip with a charge of 40,000 kip. Multiple withdrawals are allowed to a daily maximum of 5,000,000 kip. If you arrive by plane, there is an ATM and a money changer at the airport which is only open for a few hours of the day. Also, their rates are significantly worse than the banks in town.

Money changers/exchange For Malaysians, it is best to change ringgit to baht, then change the baht to kip in Laos. This is because they give not so good rates in Laos for Malaysian ringgit.

There are a number of money changers who generally do not offer good rates, and are either on Sisavangvong Rd or in the permanent markets further east. One is next to the ATM near the Night Markets, another is about 50 m further north along the street, in front of one of the first restaurants (looks like a little tollbooth/shack). The rates offered may vary, so shop around before you change. Better maybe to use official money changing services at a bank which are easily found. There are reports of scam by using money changers to take cash advance. They will charge you more in US dollars with a different exchange rate than posted. Even after complaining it's not possible to cancel the transaction.

The Night Market (on Sisavangvong Road) caters to tourists with every kind of souvenir you could want and closes at about 22:00. Particularly good are the duvet covers, cushion covers, and pillow sets. They can even make one up to your dimensions by the next day. It is well worth a look and the hawkers are very pleasant to deal with and amazingly non-pushy by the standard elsewhere in Asia. Traders range from young children to the elderly who usually make crafts, art, and goods by themselves. Good-natured bargaining is advisable, but don't obsess over this and ruin your experience as well as giving the trader a bad day. The quality and design of goods is lower in the market than in the legions of increasingly chic stores in the city. There may be some souvenirs available made from endangered animals. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures (starfish, etc.), fur, feathers, teeth and other animal products. This is the best place to buy lower end souvenirs and hone your bargaining skills.

Laotian aesthetic sense is quite evolved. For instance check out some of the higher end stores:

Books

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Several book stores that sell photocopies to unsuspecting travellers operate in the area. It's worth checking copies as pages can be unreadable or even missing.

During lunch break or siesta time, which starts 12:00 to 13:30, the dry summer sun can be scorching. To spend time comfortably while waiting for the sun to mellow at around 15:30, hang around at the public library across from the National Museum about 4 or 5 buildings down from the US-sponsored reading room. There are old English language newspapers still in circulation. Or better still, surf the net for free from the six Internet stations.

Eat

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Or lam pork stew, probably Luang Prabang's most famous dish
Khai phaen roasted algae sheets

There are no multi-national fast food outlets in Luang Prabang. Restaurants line Sisavangvong Rd and the roads along the Mekong and Nam Khan. Food runs the gamut from standard SE Asian backpacker fare to more traditional Lao dishes, including buffalo sausage right up to very high quality French cuisine. There are also numerous market stalls for cheaper food, including baguettes, crepes, and pancakes.

Typical prices for Beerlao is 25,000 kip for a large bottle and 20,000 kip for a small, which generally are standard throughout the country. Most riverside places offer the same prices for beer and similar food, although prices for food can vary wildly. Shop around and don't be shy about asking prices if anything is unclear.

Probably the most recommended food is the Lao version of fried spring roll, vegetable at 3,000 kip or pork at 5,000 kip per piece.

A speciality of Luang Prabang worth trying is khai phaen (ໄຄແຜ່ນ), made by collecting green algae from the Mekong, drying it as sheets and jazzing it up with sesame seeds, chillies, oil, etc. The end product resembles Japanese nori seaweed, and it's widely sold from street stalls, but is not meant to be eaten raw! Instead, find any bar and try it flash-fried, which transforms chewy plastic into a delicious, crispy, salty snack that goes well with beer.

Other local specialities include:

Budget

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Colorful buffet at the Luang Prabang night market

Stalls along an alleyway between the night market end of Sisavangvong Rd and the Mekong offers superb Lao street food at bargain prices. Grilled salted catfish is available for 15,000 kip per fish, other types of fish for 20,000. For a somewhat spicy salad for about 10,000 kip, look for vendors with containers filled with cucumber, lime, tomato and sliced green papaya, where they will mix it on the spot with mortar and pestle. If you order BBQ meat from one of the vendors opposite the tables, they will heat it up for you over the charcoal, and you can grab a seat at one of the tables to eat. The tables are quite crowded; it is easier to get a seat later in the evening, after 20:30 or so. The entry to the alley is by the vegan restaurant near the food stall end of the night market, near the traffic circle where the tuk-tuk touts hang out.

Mid-range

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Splurge

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Drink

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There are a number of places to drink around Luang Prabang, though the late-night club scene is pretty much nonexistent. The liveliest and busiest bars are in a small cluster between Mt Phousi and the Nam Khong.

Luang Prabang's status means that curfews are strictly enforced here. Bars start winding down at 23:00 and close at 23:30 sharp. The only late-night options permitted are outside the main part of town, a discothèque patronised mostly by locals and bizarrely, a ten pin bowling alley.

If you do plan on staying out after hours, check the arrangements with your guesthouse first to avoid being locked out.

If you're simply looking to relax and enjoy the river views, most riverside restaurants have tables outside where you can sit back with a beer or two.

Sleep

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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under 120,000 kip
Mid-range 120,000-400,000 kip
Splurge Over 400,000 kip

Luang Prabang has the best selection of accommodation in Laos, with something to suit every budget. There is everything from tent sites under a roof for 20,000 kip per night up to super luxury at US$1,500 per night.

Don't expect though that the whole kit and caboodle that you can find in Vietnam or Cambodia, air-con, cable TV, Internet, can be found in LP for US$12.

While the big chains have yet to make an appearance, there's plenty of "boutique" accommodation, although this heavily overused word runs the gamut from quirky to luxury. Most of the lanes and alleys all through Luang Prabang have places to stay, with a large selection also found in the lanes south of the Post Office. Free Wi-Fi is quite common in budget guesthouses.

Budget

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Mid-range

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Splurge

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Colonial grandeur at the Amantaka

Contact

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Cope

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If you buy bottled water, don't throw out the bottle when it is empty. You will find water dispensers in many places, including in your hotel lobby, tour agents' offices, restaurants etc. If you can't find one along the backpackers' area, go to the lobby of the Phra Lang Phra Lao, a separate building besides the National Museum, beyond the huge King Sisavangvong statue, and fill it up. The water dispenser is on the right at the far end. There is also a free toilet.

Go next

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