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Yeomen of the Guard processing to St George's Chapel, Windsor for the annual service of the Order of the Garter in 2006
Yeomen of the Guard processing to St George's Chapel, Windsor for the annual service of the Order of the Garter in 2006

A livery /ˈlɪvəri/ is an identifying design, such as a uniform, ornament, symbol or insignia that designates ownership or affiliation, often found on an individual or vehicle. Livery will often have elements of the heraldry relating to the individual or corporate body feature in the livery. Alternatively, some kind of a personal emblem or badge, or a distinctive colour, is featured.

The word itself derives from the French livrée, meaning dispensed, handed over. Most often it would indicate that the wearer of the livery was a servant, dependant, follower or friend of the owner of the livery, or, in the case of objects, that the object belonged to them.

In the late medieval phenomenon of bastard feudalism, livery badges worn by the "retainers" of great lords, sometimes in effect private armies, became a great political concern in England.[citation needed]

Etymology

In the 14th century, the word "livery" referred to an allowance of any kind, but especially clothes provided to servants and members of the household. Such things might be kept in a "livery cupboard".

During the 12th century, specific colours denoting a great person began to be used for both his soldiers and his civilian followers (the two often overlapped considerably), and the modern sense of the term began to form. Usually two different colours were used together (and often with a device or badge sewn on), but the ways in which they were combined varied with rank. Often the colours used were different each year.[citation needed] In addition to embroidered badges, metal ones were sewn on to clothing, or hung on neck-chains or (by far the most prestigious) livery collars. From the 16th century onwards, only the lower-status followers tended to receive clothes in livery colours (whilst the higher status ones received cash) and the term "servant", previously much wider, also began to be restricted to describing the same people. Municipalities and corporations copied the behaviour of the great households.[1]

The term is also used to describe badges, buttons[2][3] and grander pieces of jewellery containing the heraldic signs of an individual, which were given by that person to friends, followers and distinguished visitors, as well as (in more modest forms) servants. The grandest of these is the livery collar. William, Lord Hastings the favourite of King Edward IV of England had a "Coller of gold of K. Edward's lyverys" valued at the enormous sum of £40 in an inventory of 1489. This would have been similar to the collars worn by Hastings' sister and her husband Sir John Donne in the Donne Triptych by Hans Memling (described in Sir John Donne).[4] Lords gave their servants lead or pewter badges to sew onto their clothes.[5] In the 15th century European royalty sometimes distributed uniform suits of clothes to courtiers, as the House of Fugger, the leading bankers, did to all employees.[6]

Footman c. 1780 in braided livery
Footman c. 1780 in braided livery

This practice later contracted to the provision of standardized clothing to male servants, often in a colour-scheme distinctive to a particular family. The term most notably referred to the embroidered coats, waistcoats, knee breeches and stockings in 18th-century style, worn by footmen on formal occasions in grand houses. Plainer clothing in dark colours and without braiding was worn by footmen, chauffeurs and other employees for ordinary duties. For financial reasons, the employment of such servants, and their expensive dress, died out after World War I except in royal households.[7]

Livery at European courts

State livery at the Dutch court
State livery at the Dutch court
Belgian court livery c. 1960
Belgian court livery c. 1960

Most European royal courts still use their state liveries on formal occasions. These are generally in traditional national colours, and are based on 18th-century clothing with fine gold embroidery. Only male royal servants normally wear livery. Knee breeches are worn, normally with white silk stockings; one exception being the Spanish court which prescribes red.[8]

United Kingdom

At the British royal court, scarlet state livery is still worn by footmen, coachmen and other attendants on state occasions. The full-dress scarlet coats are handmade, and embroidered in gold braid with the royal cypher of the monarch. Gold buttons and other trimmings are of designs and patterns which date from the 18th century, and the full state dress worn by footmen includes scarlet breeches, stockings and a sword. On other formal occasions, a 'semi-state' dress is worn: a scarlet tail coat, black trousers and a white stiff shirt and bow tie. Normal day-to-day dress (as worn by footmen on duty in the palace, except on special occasions) consists of a black tail coat and trousers, white shirt and black tie and a scarlet waistcoat with gold trimming.[9] Pages wear similar daily, semi-state and (very occasionally) state liveries, but in dark blue rather than scarlet. The uniform clothing issued to full-time royal staff is tailor-made, but the seldom-worn full-state dress is not bespoke; the usual practice is to select individuals whose height fits the existing ceremonial coats held in storage.[10]

Pages of Honour to the Queen wear scarlet (or, in Scotland, green) frock coats with blue velvet cuffs, edged all round with gold lace, with white breeches and hose, a short sword and other accoutrements.[11]

Scarlet is the livery colour of the sovereign and of the royal court. The Queen also has a family livery colour, however, known as 'Edinburgh Green', which she and the Duke of Edinburgh chose in the year of their marriage, 1948. Five years later, at her coronation, while the Queen's attendants wore scarlet the page in attendance on the Duke wore a green livery edged in silver. Subsequently, Edinburgh green has been the colour used for their private cars and carriages (whereas the official vehicles are painted in a royal livery colour of maroon (or 'claret') and black).[12]

Belgium

At the Belgian court liveries in traditional colours are still used at state occasions. The coats are red, and have black cuffs with golden lace. Royal cyphers are embroidered on the shoulders. The breeches are of yellow fabric. The semi-state livery worn for less formal occasions has black breeches.[13]

The Netherlands

At the Dutch court the full state livery is blue (nassaublauw). The breeches are yellow, and cuffs are red.

Sue one's livery

Further information: Livery of seisin § Inquisitions post mortem and livery of seisin

The phrase "to sue one's livery" refers to the formal recognition of a noble's majority, in exchange of payment, for conferring the powers attached to his title, and thereby freeing him from dependence as a ward.[14]

Modern usage

Royal livery of claret and black, as used on state cars and carriages in the UK
Royal livery of claret and black, as used on state cars and carriages in the UK
New York City taxicab in mandated yellow taxi cab livery
Transilien rolling stock livery in Paris, design by the French agency RCP Design Global
Transilien rolling stock livery in Paris, design by the French agency RCP Design Global
Porsche 935 in iconic Martini Racing livery
Porsche 935 in iconic Martini Racing livery

From this core meaning, multiple extended or specialist meanings have derived. Examples include:

Historical military usage

The term "livery" is now rarely applied in a military context, so it would be unusual for it to refer to a military uniform or the painting design of a military vehicle. The modern military equivalent for "livery" is the term "standard issue", which is used when referring to the colors and regulations required in respect of any military clothing or equipment.

Early uniforms were however regarded as a form of livery ("the King's coat") during the late 17th and early 18th centuries in the European monarchies.[18] During this period, officers of the French Garde du Corps (the Royal Bodyguard) successfully petitioned not be required to wear uniforms while on duty within the palace at Versailles, since this livery suggested that they were servants rather than aristocrats.

Coach Design bodied Mercedes Benz O500RF-3 13.5m
Coach Design bodied Mercedes Benz O500RF-3 13.5m

Further reading

References

  1. ^ Françoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane; Dress in the Middle Ages; pp. 133-5, Yale UP, 1997; ISBN 0-300-06906-5.
  2. ^ Tin-glazed earthenware livery-button, ca 1651, Victoria & Albert museum jewellery collection
  3. ^ Close, Lesley (2009). "Button gallery: livery". Hammond Turner & Sons Birmingham button makers. Hammond Turner & Sons. Retrieved 18 March 2010.
  4. ^ National Gallery Catalogues: The Fifteenth Century Netherlandish Paintings by Lorne Campbell, 1998, ISBN 1-85709-171-X - Hastings' collar p389 n88
  5. ^ Jonathan Alexander & Paul Binski (eds), Age of Chivalry, Art in Plantagenet England, 1200-1400, Royal Academy/Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London 1987, Cat 448; see also Steane, John, The Archaeology of the Medieval English Monarchy, Routledge, 1999, ISBN 0-415-19788-0, ISBN 978-0-415-19788-5
  6. ^ Georges Duby ed., A History of Private Life, Vol 2 Revelations of the Medieval World, 1988 (English translation), p. 578, Belknap Press, Harvard University
  7. ^ "Except at public functions, the last time I saw a footman in livery was in 1921": George Orwell writing in the Tribune of 3 March 1944
  8. ^ "Panoramio - Photo of Acto de presentacion de cartas credenciales en Madrid de los nuevos Embajadores". www.panoramio.com. Retrieved 21 January 2018.
  9. ^ Allison, Ronald; Riddell, Sarah, eds. (1991). The Royal Encyclopedia. London: Macmillan. pp. 313–314.
  10. ^ "Permanent Style". Retrieved 21 January 2018.
  11. ^ "Dress and insignia worn at His Majesty's court, issued with the authority of the lord chamberlain". Archive.org. Retrieved 2016-03-30.
  12. ^ Allison, Ronald; Riddell, Sarah, eds. (1991). The Royal Encyclopedia. London: Macmillan. p. 153.
  13. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2015-10-18.((cite web)): CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  14. ^ Nelson, Alan H. (2003). Monstrous Adversary: The Life of Edward de Vere, 17th Earl of Oxford. Liverpool University Press. p. 71. ISBN 978-0-85323-678-8.
  15. ^ CORGI Eddie Stobart Curtainside Truck. Image of die-cast, 1:64 scale model of Stobart including authentic livery.
  16. ^ Examples of the diverse range of vehicle livery
  17. ^ Harper, Douglas. "livery". Online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved 2015-01-03.
  18. ^ Mollo, John (1972). Military Fashion. p. 30. ISBN 0-214-65349-8.