New York Fashion Week (NYFW), held in February and September of each year, is a semi-annual series of events in Manhattan typically spanning seven to nine days when international fashion collections are shown to buyers, the press, and the general public. It is one of four major fashion weeks in the world, collectively known as the "Big Four", along with those in Paris, London, and Milan.[1][2] The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) created the modern notion of a centralized "New York Fashion Week" in 1993, although cities like London were already using their city's name in conjunction with the words fashion week in the 1980s. NYFW is based on a much older series of events called "Press Week", founded in 1943.[3] On a global scale, most business and sales-oriented shows and some couture shows take place in New York City.
A centralized calendar of citywide events (including those affiliated with WME/IMG) is kept by the CFDA,[4] and was acquired from calendar founder Ruth Finley.[5]
The annual economic impact of New York Fashion Week upon New York City was estimated at US$887 million in 2016.[6]
Main subject
Opening Day for fashion show in New York, seen in Harpers Bazaar magazine from the early 20th century, precursor to the modern-day New York Fashion Week
The first New York Fashion Week was created in 1943 by Eleanor Lambert, press director of the American fashion industry's first promotional organization, the New York Dress Institute.[7]
The event, the world's first organized fashion week, was called "Press Week", and was created to attract attention away from French fashion during World War II, when fashion industry insiders were unable to travel to Paris to see French fashion shows.[8] It was also meant to showcase American designers for fashion journalists, who had neglected U.S. fashion innovations.
Press Week in New York was a success, and fashion magazines like Vogue, which were normally filled with French designs, increasingly featured American fashion.[8]
By the mid-1950s, the event was known as "Press Week of New York". Spring 1951 (held February 1951) was the 16th Annual Press Week of New York.[9]
Consolidation as "7th on Sixth"
In 1993, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, CFDA, led by president Stan Herman and executive director Fern Mallis,[10][11] consolidated the citywide events known as "New York Fashion Week" by staging them in a cluster of white tents in Bryant Park.[12][13][14] The event was branded with the trademark "7th on Sixth".[15]
21st century
Internationally, most business and sales-oriented shows and some couture shows have taken place in New York City since 2010. The emphasis, however, has perennially been financial. New York's LGBT fashion design community contributes very significantly to promulgating fashion trends, and drag celebrities have developed a profound influence upon New York Fashion Week.[16]
In 2001, "7th on Sixth" was sold to IMG.[17] The exhibition was canceled in September 2001 in light of the September 11 attacks. The 9/11 terrorist attacks occurred on what should have been the fourth day of NYFW. The exhibition they were having to feature a maternity designer was canceled as well as all remaining events .
In 2007,[18]Mercedes-Benz became title sponsor of the IMG-produced events, adding New York to its roster of international "Mercedes-Benz fashion weeks",[19] and dubbing it "MB Fashion Week New York".[20]
In September 2011, New York designers began live-streaming runway shows, in order to reach a greater audience. The following London, who began in February 2010.[23][24] Streams were originally offered on YouTube, and later on other sites.
In 2013, IMG and its New York Fashion Week events were sold to William Morris Endeavor (WME) and Silver Lake Partners for $2.3 billion.[25][26]
In 2014, the CFDA acquired FashionCalendar.com from Ruth Finley. The company had managed it (originally in the paper, then in digital format) for more than 60 years.[27][28]
In January 2015, Mercedes-Benz announced its departure as title sponsor from WME/IMG's events.[29] Producer Kanye West announced he would gladly take over sponsorship of the event.[30]
In March 2015, WME/IMG announced that it had acquired MADE Fashion Week, which takes place during WME/IMG's events.[31][32]
The primary location for New York Fashion Week is Spring Studios at 50 Varick Street in Lower Manhattan. Locations have included a waterfront carnival, converted railway terminals and a former post office.[35]
In February 2014, Dr. Danielle Sheypuk became the first wheelchair-using model to appear in a show for New York Fashion Week; she modeled for designer Carrie Hammer.[36][37]
In September 2014, Karen Crespo became the first quadruple-amputee to walk at New York Fashion Week, also for Carrie Hammer.[37][38]
On December 12, 2014, a New York state court approved a settlement in a lawsuit by community activists over whether allowing the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents in Damrosch Park was a violation of the public trust doctrine. In accordance with the settlement, the City of New York, the New York City Department of Parks and Recreation, and Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts agreed not to renew their contract with IMG. As a result, the February 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was the last one staged in Damrosch Park.[39]
In 2014, New York State passed legislation designating models under the age of 18 as child performers, restricting the hours they can perform and requiring additional documentation.[40]
2015
Actress Jamie Brewer became the first woman with Down syndrome to walk the red carpet at New York Fashion Week, which she did for designer Carrie Hammer.[41]
In December 2015, the CFDA announced that it had hired the Boston Consulting Group to study revising the format of New York Fashion Week to adapt to changes brought about by social media. One option being explored is to bifurcate the event, with private showroom appointments of next season's designs for buyers and public fashion shows displaying in-season merchandise for consumers.[42][43][44]
The first New York Fashion Week dedicated menswear shows, called "New York Fashion Week: Men's", were produced.[45]
2016
The season ended with a number of designers either experimenting with, or planning to adopt, a "see now, buy now model", with items available from the runway immediately after (or even during) the show, rather than six months later.[46] The charge was led by brands such as Burberry,[47] although experiments in the format can be traced back to earlier shows by designers such as Diane von Furstenberg.
Attendance
Admission to shows at New York Fashion Week is typically in the form of accreditation, with specific events by invitation only. Most of the time attendees are other designers, celebrities, and social media influencers.[48]
No "official" New York Fashion Week
In spite of CFDA's claim to run the "official" New York Fashion Week calendar,[49] and as further purported by publications such as Women's Wear Daily,[50] it has been pointed out in publications such as The Fashion Law that CFDA has "little, in any, legal rights in the NYFW name".[51] Therefore, trademark rights remain unclear, at best.
Trademark litigation
In 2013 Fashion Week Inc., founded by business executive Trisha Paravas, registered the trademarks "New York Fashion Week", "NYFW" and "NYFW The Runway Shows" to use in conjunction with the production of its consumer-based fashion shows after realizing the current slate of New York Fashion Shows were invitation-only and designed for industry professionals and media.
Trisha Paravas launched bi-yearly shows in December 2013 and initially called them "New York Fashion Shows". After her first few shows drew increasing interest, she decided to rebrand it. At the time, Paravas claimed there was no trademark filed for "New York Fashion Week", and filed for "New York Fashion Week" trademark, along with the abbreviation "NYFW".[52]
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) lacked registrations for the "New York Fashion Week" trademarks, and tried to cancel Fashion Week Inc's registrations. Nonetheless, the CFDA was unsuccessful in its effort to have Fashion Week, Inc.'s "New York Fashion Week" trademark cancelled.[53][54]
On August 12, 2016, the court denied Paravas and Fashion Week Inc.'s motion for a preliminary injunction.[59] Judge Koeltl held that although Fashion Week, Inc. does have rights in the New York Fashion Week trademark, those rights are "limited" to "online entertainment ticket agency sales". On the other hand, the court held that the CFDA and WME IMG enjoy rights in the mark for the "broad ambit of organizing and producing fashion shows".[60]
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