Night view on Belgrade, from the Sava river
Bohemian quarter of Skadarlija. With its mix of old-style kafanas and modern clubs, it is the second most visited tourist attraction in Belgrade after the Belgrade Fortress
Typical appearance of the splavovi, barges and houseboats adapted into the kafanas, restaurants, clubs and cafés, central venues of the modern city nightlife
One of the clubs on the splavovi at night (2011)

The vibrant and dynamic nightlife in Belgrade achieved international prominence in the early 21st century. Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, gained a reputation both due to the traditional nightlife, mostly represented by the kafanas, and the contemporary, modern nightlife, especially including splavovi, barges and floats adapted into the clubs and cafés.[1][2][3] Belgrade often makes the lists of the cities with best clubbing and partying,[4][5][6][7] discreetly shaping itself into the fun and accommodating metropolis.[8]

The splavovi (singular splav) are located along both banks of the Sava, with numerous clubs along the shores of Ada Ciganlija, and the right bank of the Danube. Despite the modern nightlife developed in time into various varieties to appeal to the foreign visitors and younger demographics, Skadarlija, a Bohemian quarter with traditional kafanas still remains one of the most visited Belgrade attractions, second only to the Belgrade Fortress.[9]

The city is especially popular in the surrounding region, with numerous weekend-visitors. The main appeals to the tourists include: generally good knowledge of foreign languages or lack of language barrier in the case of the former Yugoslavia; friendly atmosphere; abundant number of venues (bars, clubs, cafés, kafanas, restaurants); quality cuisine; relatively low prices of the alcohol, especially from the perspective of foreign visitors; lack of the nightlife regulations or the poor enforcement of the existing ones.[8][10][11]

The growing popularity of Belgrade as fun and entertainment hotspot, especially the "crazy splavovi", garnered criticism in time. Though still described as having the "legacy as an intellectual hangout",[6] and including the successful artistic revitalization of quarters like Savamala or Dorćol,[12][13][14] the prevailing image of Belgrade, even officially advertised as such, is that of a city of cheap fun. This typecast promotion made Belgrade's nightlife a focal point for the people searching for low-priced hedonistic, carefree distraction, having a much wider social impact: heavy drinking, drug abuse, crime, prostitution, influence on teenagers and youth and a development of the "reality TV shows influenced splavovi-culture".[15][16][17]

Traditional nightlife

Origins

White Bear Tavern in 2017. The venue provided hospitality and catering services for over 300 years (1650s–1960s)

Predecessors of modern nightlife were the kafanas, oriental style bistros. The very first one in Belgrade was opened during the Ottoman period, in 1522, in Dorćol. Believed to be the oldest such venue in Europe, it served only Turkish coffee.[18][19] This was only a year after the Ottoman conquest of Belgrade, and 33 years before the first kafana was opened in Istanbul in 1555. There are no historical sources to why Belgrade was so important at the time to have such venue so early.[20] Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi visited Belgrade in 1661 and counted 21 khans and 6 caravanserais. The largest, Caravanserai of Sokollu Mehmed Pasha had "160 chimneys", and some had harem sections.[21] When Austrians conquered Belgrade in 1718, among other reports to the imperial court in Vienna, they sent a report on kafanas naming them: "Crni orao", "Crveni petao", "Pet ševa", "Tri zeca", "Divlji čovek", etc. They especially addressed the problematic "Kod dve bule", notorious favorite place of the "debauched" Baron Franz von der Trenck.[22]

Belgrade remained rich in kafanas in this period as there were almost 200 kafanas and meyhanas, so production of alcoholic beverages in the city bloomed to meet the demand.[23] Austrian governor, Charles Alexander, Duke of Württemberg, was known for his love of the night life. He abolished all taxes on drink serving, and business blossomed. There were some 140 kafanas and pubs in the German section of the city, and over 200 in the Serbian sector. The former mostly served beer, and the latter wine and rakia. In the 1717-1723 period, four breweries were opened in Belgrade. Duke also organized balls in his palace. In the periods when the balls were organized, music in other parts of the city was forbidden. Common citizens were sometimes forcefully dragged to the balls. where they had to pay the entry fee of 17 kreuzers, which was too high. The aristocracy mostly used the commoners as a laughingstock at the balls, and those who refused to come or made problems at the balls, were jailed and whipped. A massive, lush dinners and feasts, known as traktacije, were organized. They included meals out of reach for the common people, like caviar, octopuses, salted herrings, fried pigeons, hot chocolate or imported wines. After the return of the Ottomans in 1739, this "baroque blitz" of Belgrade's nightlife ended.[24]

After the recapturing, at the corner of the modern Kralja Petra and Cara Dušana streets, kafana "Crni orao", the first such facility with the recorded word kafana in its name, survived. It served coffee and nargile.[25] The object was also important for other reasons. It was also the first brewery in Belgrade, and the first venue to work 24/7. On the floor above dwelled guardsmen, the crew of the fortress' Timișoara Gate. As their duty was 24/7, so were the kafana's working hours. The building survived until the Interbellum.[26]

White Bear Tavern was opened in the 18th century in the town of Zemun. The building was constructed in the first half of the 17th century and served as caravanserai (khan) at least since 1658. Popular venue stayed in business until the early 1960s.[27][28] It is the oldest surviving building in urban Belgrade, beside the Belgrade Fortress walls. However, Zemun developed independently from Belgrade and for the most part during history two towns belonged to two different states. Zemun became part of the same administrative unit as Belgrade on 4 October 1929,[29] lost a separate town status to Belgrade in 1934[30] and made a continuous built-up area with Belgrade only since the 1950s. Hence, the House at 10 Cara Dušana Street in Dorćol is usually named as the oldest house in Belgrade,[31][32] while the White Bear Tavern is titled as the oldest house in Zemun.[33]

The word kafana, introduced by the Ottomans (qahve hane), was derived from the Persian qahvah–khanah, meaning "coffee house". English version appeared for the first time in 1615, published by George Sandys after his travels to Constantinople.[18]

Golden age

Kafana ?, opened in 1823, the oldest still operational kafana in Belgrade

Prince Alexander Karađorđević codified hospitality objects in 1847, dividing them into mehanas and khans, with former given the rank of craft shops. For a long time venues remained unchanged: clothless tables, loosen chairs and benches, tinplate furnaces fired by the guests themselves, tallow candles or petroleum lamps light. A culture of spending hours in kafanas developed among the lower classes. They discussed daily events, politics, shared funny stories or sang with gusle. But development of westernized venues began, built after the examples in Vienna or Budapest. They became gathering spots for officers, clerks, landowners, and, unlike traditional kafanas, occasionally they had women guests. Princess Ljubica Obrenović was a regular visitor of the fancy "Manojlova bašta", in modern Zeleni Venac, where she was having a beer. It was the first Belgrade's kafana to serve beer, starting in 1835.[21][34] In time, the crumby-type kafanas mostly remained in suburbia.[21]

Staying up late was against the law, but people would regularly stay in kafanas after-hours. As Belgrade had no street lights at the time, the mayor Nikola Hristić ordered that every person walking at night must have individual, personal lamp, stipulating high fines. As people coming from the venues at late hours were already breaking the law, they had no lamps, trying to stay unnoticed by the gendarmes. A subculture of bribery developed as for the offenders, when caught, it was less expensive to pay the gendarme than to pay the fine, while the gendarmes were poorly paid anyway.[35]

Kafanas became centers of city's social life, as the entire political and cultural pulse of the city radiated from them. Some historians described them as the "most important institutions" from the 19th century to World War II. Prince Mihailo Obrenović also codified them in 1863, and ordered that women were not allowed to own the kafana nor to work in the village and road ones, but one, or exceptionally two, could work in city kafanas. The venues diversified into various types: mehana, bistro, gostionica, han, saraj, lokal, krčma, bircuz, birtija and later also restoran, hotel, etc. Though all of them offered drinks, some were also offering food, rest and sleepover. Also, many had music. At the end of the 19th century, downtown Makedonska Street had 40 houses, of which 22 were kafanas.[36] Kafanas were generally diversified: some served only coffee, other served only beer or offered only bean soup.[18] Another codification, this time by the municipality, followed in 1877. Kafanas were categorized - kafanas of the first order were allowed to have one female waitress.[37]

As hubs of the social life, kafanas soon diversified: "Esnafska kafana" (for craftsmen - bricklayers, masons, well diggers, carpenters, sawyers), "Makedonija" (farmers and traders), "Kod Albanije" (leaseholders), etc. Depending on the political affiliation of the guests, some kafanas turned into the debate clubs of the Serbian Progressive Party, People's Radical Party or Liberal Party. "Rajić" was the first kafana where modern ćevapčići were prepared c.1860.[38] Staple of the Serbian cuisine today, they were so popular that at one moment there were 300 ćevabdžinicas (ćevapčići grill shops) in Belgrade.[21] Fully named "Kod Rajića junaka serbskog", it hosted the festivities after the complete withdrawal of the Ottomans from Belgrade in 1867, organized by the prince Mihailo.[22][36]

Kafana "Kod Albanije", with the first public clock in Belgrade. Today location of the Palace Albanija

The first hotel, "Kod jelena", was built in 1843 but became known as "Staro zdanje". It introduced European tradition in entertainment and had the first ballroom in Belgrade. The first ball in Belgrade was held in 1838. They became more frequent after 1860 and had a strict timetable and etiquette. Opposed to this, the vogue of so-called "potato balls" spread among the lower classes, especially in the suburban kafanas. They were named that way as, opposed to the distinguished dances of the rich, at these dance party surrogates people were just jumping and jerking, as if they were kicking potato sacks.[36][39]

The first kafana which allowed guests to stay the entire night "?", since the mid-19th century, originally only twice a year, after the Christmas and Easter liturgies. Located across the Belgrade's Cathedral Church, it allowed the believers who remained long into the night in the churchyard to stay inside the kafana. On 6 February 1893 the first electrified streetlamp was lit in the city and some chroniclers accept this as the moment when "proper night life" began.[40]

In 1860 one of the best known kafanas, "Kod Albanije", was opened. A modern Palace Albania was built in 1940 on its location. Some of the venues had jovial names, like "Kod pocepanih gaća" [Chez Torn Nickers] and "Sedam Švaba" [Seven Swabians], or were named after the edifices they were close to ("Tri šešira" [Three Hats], because of the Dimović's hat store which occupied the house before and had three tin-made hats above the entrance; "Kod palidrvca" [Chez Matchstick], because of the nearby match factory). Kafana "Amerika" was known for Turkish delight, chickpeas and čočeks, but also for introducing belly dancers and was notorious for prostitution. Hotel and restaurant "Balkan" on Terazije was built in 1935 on the location of the former "Simina kafana" from 1860. Ranked as the highest category 1, it was a meeting place of the businesspeople, and was one of the few here women were allowed to work. "Zlatni krst", also in Terazije, advertised itself in 1862 as having "12 rooms and stable for 30 horses".[22][41]

A custom of unusual, exotic and funny names continued, often countering some neighboring or well established venue: "Pivni izvor" [Beer Spring], "Bosfor" [Bosporus] (next to "Dardaneli" [Dardanelles]), "Engleska kraljica" [Queen of England], "Zemljotres" [Earthquake], "Crna mačka" [Black Cat] (next to "Bela mačka" [White Cat]), "Žurka" [Party], "Kod tri seljaka" [Chez Three Peasants], "Astronomska kugla" [Astronomy Ball], "Kod bombardovanja Beograda" [Chez Bombing of Belgrade], "Gusarski brod" [Pirate Ship], "Dva panja" [Two Logs], "Jeftinoća" [Cheapness], "Musa Kesedžija", "Radosan Srbin" [Joyful Serb], "Srpski vlakovođa" [Serbian Train Driver], "Crni Arapin" [Black Arab],[18] "U modrim šumama" [In Blue Forests], "Kod dve misterije" [Chez Two Mysteries], "Kod Oroza" [Chez Trigger], "Vrući gavran" [Hot Raven], "Izgubljeno jagnje" [Lost Lamb] or "Kod žirafu vanevropsku zverku" [Chez giraffe, out-of-Europe beast].[42]

One of the most distinguished venues was '"Srpska kruna", built in 1869 and adapted into the hotel. It originated in 1853 at the corner of Knez Mihailova and Pariska streets. It was famous for its balls. Built by prince Alexander Karađorđević, it was sold to the Belgrade administration which moved in.[43] The new building, located across the Kalemegdan Park, today hosts the Belgrade City Library. It was part of the colloquially styled "Kalemegdan group of hotels", due to their location. The venues began to develop after 1867 and full withdrawal of the Ottomans from the city. The group included the "Nacional" inn, later also a hotel, built in 1868.[44] "Srpska kruna" architecturally preserved the appearance of the khan - squared, central inner yard - but in modern style. It had only 12 rooms but was famous for its large ceremonial hall, used for the European-style balls and concerts, though every ball had to start with the Serbian folk kolo Srbijanka.[21]

Kafana "Srpska kruna", as the starting point of the 1939 Belgrade Grand Prix race

"Dardaneli" became the most popular kafana after the 1896 reconstruction, a pivot for actors, writers, singing societies, and the central point of city's urban spirit and bohemianism.[19][45][46] It was founded in 1855 by Arif Bey, the Turk. Ownership changed a lot, being owned by a Serbian woman Stojana in 1858, as she received it as a dowry. It had billiard tables. Notable regular guests included Vojislav Ilić, Branislav Nušić, Antun Gustav Matoš, Stevan Sremac, Radoje Domanović, Janko Veselinović, Toša Jovanović, Đura Jakšić, and Milovan Glišić. It was affectionately called "people's university". When it was to be closed, regular guests organized "farewell ceremony" - some 70 people gathered, wearing fedoras and top hats, organized by the famous Bohemian actor Čiča Ilija Stanojević, and performed a dignified farewell "with great sadness and sorrow".[21][47] It was demolished in 1901, a modern National Museum in Belgrade was built instead, so the clientele moved to "Velika Srbija" and the already established kafana hub, Skadarlija. At the time, Belgrade was divided into quarters, and the Bibija stream, flowing down the Skadarlija, was an administrative border between the quarters of Palilula and Dorćol. As Palilula limited music to midnight, people would then jump across the stream in the Dorćol section to continue with festivities.[47]

As "Velika Srbija" itself was soon demolished to make way for the "Hotel Moskva", Skadarlija became the central nightlife point of Belgrade.[9][36] As of 2023, "Tri šešira", founded in 1864, is the oldest, still operational kafana in Skadarlija and second overall in Belgrade, after the "?" from 1823.[48] Even older "Gospodarska Mehana", from 1820, was closed in 2013.[49] It was situated close to the mouth of the Topčiderka into the Sava.[41] One of the oldest, "Grčka Kraljica", was opened in 1835 and closed in 2007.[50]

"Despotov Han" inn, predecessor of "Grčka Kraljica", holds the infamy as the first recorded brothel in Belgrade, dating from the 1840s. As the prostitution was always illegal, the sex workers had to move to the streets, while the venue continued as regular kafana. The last "officially unofficial" brothel from this period was located in the ground-floor house in the Čika Ljubina Street, behind the modern Instituto Cervantes building. The house was demolished much later, in the early 1990s. Prostitution was largely suppressed by the actions of the Circle of Serbian Sisters, founded in 1903.[51]

At the turn of the 19th and the 20th century, Belgrade had one hospitality or catering venue per 50 inhabitants.[18] After World War I, new venues were completely westernized. New hotels, with popular restaurants, were "Splendid", "Astorija", "Union", "Luksor", "Palace", etc. The social divide remained, though. Members of the lower classes couldn't afford fancy venues, like hotels "Slavija" or "Imperijal", to order Wiener schnitzel or Hungarian goulash, to listen to German or French singers or to watch magicians, jugglers and other artists. They were visiting small cookshops, soup kitchens and lowest quality venues.[21] Among the most luxurious and exclusive nightlife locales during the Interbellum was "Srpski Kralj", at the corner of Uzun-Mirkova and Pariska streets. The lavish hotel was described as an "ornament" of the city, with "equally beautiful interior and exterior". It was completely destroyed during the German bombing of Belgrade on 6 April 1941. After the war, the state nationalized the lot. Despite several initiatives, it was never rebuilt.[52] Instead, restaurant "Park" was opened, with majority of the lot becoming restaurant's garden. It was later renamed to "Central Park", before it burned to the ground in December 2012.[53]

On 30 December 1927, Ministry of Finance of the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes banned night life after 23:00: those who loiter and sit till the late hours, and it is past eleven, will be fined two dinars. Known as the "tax for nighttime sitting", it is considered the first official ban of night life in Serbia.[54]

Other important, now closed kafanas from this period included:

Manak's House, built in 1830, hosted meyhane in the 19th century. The house survived as one of the rare edifices from that period in Belgrade and is protected by the state

Zemun

As Zemun was a border town between Austria(-Hungary) and Turkey/Serbia, from 1730 to 1871 there was Kontumac, or the quarantine hospital, on the location of the modern City Park. As Zemun was an important trading post, Kontumac was also a duty-free zone. It contained residential quarters during stay in the zone. Having large number of people in one place, hospitality and catering services developed around the zone, and numerous kafanas were opened: "Kod zlatnog krsta", "Kod zlatnog točka", "Kod cara", "Kod zlatnog slona", "Kod zlatnog sunca", etc.[77]

Modern period

After World War II, night life dwindled. City was heavily damaged, population was cut by half, and it took a while to establish a proper public transportation grid to allow the commuting. Apart from the surviving "legends", new kafanas which became centers of night life in the 1950s-1960s were adjoined to the sports clubs and stadiums, like "Mladi Proleter", "Sinđelić", "Obilić" or "Stadion". Clientele often included footballers and other athletes. Another hub of night life included riverbank kafanas held by the fishermen, especially in Zemun. Popular entertainment and technological progress also hampered the importance of kafanas. Radio Belgrade began airing non-stop, including immensely popular comedy shows which emptied the streets, like the Joyful Evening (Veselo veče). In 1958 the broadcast of the Television Belgrade began.[40]

In the mid-1950s, renovated "Lotos Bar" was opened in Zmaj Jovina Street. A basement venue, it offered "artistic program" which included magicians, unicycle drivers, jugglers, fire eaters and, as the main attraction, barely dressed female dancers. It became instant sensation. As members of the new Communists political establishment became regular visitors and the bar slipped from not-so-hidden striptease club into the, also not-so-hidden prostitution locale, the working hours were constantly extended. In order to repeal the common people, the entry prices, and especially drinks, skyrocketed. Similar venues soon followed: "Kristal Bar", bars in the "Mažestik" and "Metropol" hotels, and numerous striptease clubs in the 1990s. By the early 2000s, all were closed.[40]

The street prostitution developed since the late 1960s. The sex workers operated on the access roads to the Pančevo Bridge and became known as stoperke ("hitchhiker girls"). As a result, a row of inns was built along the Pančevo and Zrenjanin roads. Another long surviving location was the Economy Faculty's Park, where gay and transsexual prostitution also developed. The park earned a moniker Picin park [Pussy Park], while the prostitutes were nicknamed kamenjarke ("stone walkers") after the nearby Kamenička Street. Transgender sex worker Vjeran Miladinović Merlinka became a celebrity in the 1990s. Another location, which in time became synonymous for prostitution was Plavi most ("Blue Bridge") across the highway between Konjarnik and Medaković. Old style brothels also continued, followed in the 1990s by the porn-shops and business escort agencies, some located even in Skadarlija. Since the 2010s, some elite prostitutes became reality TV stars, called "starlets", though they were continuously getting arrested for prostitution.[51]

New Belgrade, built across the Sava in earnest from 1948, notoriously had no night life, as for the long time it had no kafanas. Exceptions were "Fontana" in the neighborhood of the same name, "Pri Majolka", later renamed "Vojvodina", in the shopping mall "Old Merkator",[78] and the oldest "Džakarta", across the Studentski Grad,[79] better known by its original and present name "Tošin Bunar".[80]

As the first kafana on the boat, "Split" has historical importance as the precursor of splavovi. The restaurant was opened in 1970, but the ship was much older. On the orders of the Serbian Royal Navy Society, it was built in 1892 in Regensburg, Germany, as the luxurious paddle steamer, and originally named Emperor Nicholas II. It was sent mostly on diplomatic missions, like International Danube Commission. It was part of the ill-fated Kladovo transport in World War II. After the war it was renamed Split, docked under the Branko's Bridge, and adapted into the restaurant. The steerage was adapted into the private rooms and used for prostitution, so the police often raided the venue. The ship is since 1992 on the dry dock in Kladovo, being declared a cultural monument in 2006.[78][81]

In time kafanas evolved into the westernized restaurants, but many traditional ones survived, and remained part of Belgrade's tourist offer.[82] Even today kafanas have been described as the "soul of Belgrade".[9][83] Despite the development of the nightlife in modern sense in the 1960s, and diversification of the fun venues and their modernization to fit the younger population and foreign tourists, in the 2020s Skadarlija remains the second most visited attraction in Belgrade after the Belgrade Fortress, contributing to one third of the city's foreign currency income.[9][47]

Skadarlija

Main article: Skadarlija
Toma Zdravković (1938–1991), folk chansonnier, one of the most popular Serbian singer-songwriters, and a longtime performer in Skadarlija. Known for his personal bohemian lifestyle, he remained extremely popular with younger generations and his songs endured as the inevitable part of traditional nightlife

Skadarlija partially preserved the ambience of the traditional urban architecture, including its archaic urban organization, and is known as the main bohemian quarter of Belgrade, similar to Paris' Montmartre.[84] As similar Bohemian quarters, Skadarlija and Montmartre twinned on 22 October 1977.[85] It began to develop in 1830 with the settlement of Gypsies in the abandoned trenches in front of the ramparts, followed by the Serbs and the Turks after 1835. An aqueduct, essentially a wall through the center of the street, was later constructed to conduct the stream of Bibijin Potok underground.[86] The largest arch of the aqueduct was named Skadar, so in 1872 the street was named Skadarska Street.[86][87][88][89]

Soon after the aqueduct was built, the first khans, precursors of later kafanas, were built along the foothill of the wall.[86] Skadarlija began to acquire its bohemian character in the last few decades of the 19th century, and particularly after 1901 and demolition of "Dardaneli".[9] In the early 20the century there were 15 kafanas in Skadarlija, including: "Tri šešira", "Dva jelena", "Zlatni bokal", "Bandist", "East", "Guild", "Vuk Karadžić", "Bums Keler", "Miloš Obilić", "The Two Sergeants" and "Mala Pijaca". The first three still exist, accompanied by newer restaurants like "Ima dana" [There Will Be Days], "Skadarlija" or "Dva bela goluba". In the late 19th century, "Pašonin Bulevar" at the beginning of the street, was the very first Belgrade's music hall.[90]

The renovation and restoration of Skadarlija began in 1968 in accordance with the designs made by the group of prominent artists. They managed to preserve its existing values and introduced modern facilities without interfering with its historical features. In the late 1960s, Skadarlija regained fame as the center of young and bohemian artists.[9][91] Since 1993, the official opening of the summer season in Skadarlija (restaurants are open the entire year) has been marked by rising a "bohemian flag".[92] There is a special code of conduct for the restaurants and their employees. It includes the types of dishes on the menus, types of uniforms, table clothes or music allowed, and the knowledge of foreign languages.[9] The symbol of Skadarlija is a Fedora hat, mentioned in numerous folk songs, especially in the starogradska musical style, a form of older urban folk music, another emblematic feature of Skadarlija.[47]

After decades of performing in restaurants and outdoors, some performers became synonymous with Skadarlija: singers Toma Zdravković, Silvana Armenulić, Olga Jančevecka.[93] Especially popular was Sofka Nikolić. The first folk music star of newly formed Yugoslavia in the 1920s and 1930s, she published dozens of records, becoming one of the most commercial female singers in Europe. Musicians from Europe and United States were visiting her in Skadarlija, including Josephine Baker, who befriended her. Called "Queen of Skadarlija", Nikolić withdrew in 1939 when her young daughter, her only child, died.[94][95][96][97]

Čubura

Main article: Čubura

Another neighborhood synonymous for bohemian life was Čubura. Like Skadarlija, it was once an outer village-turned-suburb, along the local stream, Čuburski Potok.[98] Differences included the clientele as Skadarlija was considered to be a fancy and fashionable place while Čubura used to be a gathering place of common people, and decades long communal neglect of Čubura compared to constant renovations in Skadarlija, which gave Čubura a certain flavor. In 1941, on the short distance along the Makenzijeva Street there were 30 kafanas.[99] Čubura was described as "one vast kafana, open all hours".[99]

After 1945, "Vltava" (originally named "Toplica") became a layer's gathering place, "Mala Vltava" of the former political prisoners from the Goli Otok while the more affluent citizens gathered in "Trandafilović".[100] "Orač" was originally opened in Savinac. Though opened in 1949 on the location of former broadcloth making shop, it was remembered as "being much older". The venue was famous for its grill menu. Public protests and petitions followed its closing in 1996, when it was relocated to another location in Čubura, where former Vltava used to be.[101] It was closed in January 2015.[102] "Mlava", at 52 Cara Nikolaja, was an iconic kafana, known for "having a soul". Never a fancy locale, it reached its heyday in the 1970s and got "frozen in the 1980s", with traditional interior. It hosted equally bohemian, artistic elite, local population and construction workers from the nearby sites. By the 2010s it regained iconic status of the small, pampered oasis with the younger clientele and foreign visitors, but still was closed on 1 March 2013 as one of the last remaining "true Belgrade kafanas".[103][104]

"Trandafilović" was founded in 1929, and demolished in 1961 when authorities planned to cut the old plane tree in restaurants yard. After public protests, including poet Libero Markoni [sr] who physically prevented workers from cutting the tree, authorities backed off. New building on the same location was finished in 1967 and the kafana moved in again. In the 21st century it was closed and turned into the household chemicals shop.[101] The plane tree survived and under it, a bistro named "Trandafilović" was opened. Modern Čubura Park was built where the "Kikevac" kafana was located. As it was the central gathering point of the migrants from Crna Trava, the most famous builders in Serbia, a monument dedicated to the nameless "Crna Trava builder" was erected in the park in 2019.[105]

Unlike preserved Skadarlija, Čubura's bohemianism was completely extinguished by the 2020s. Kafanas were closed one by one and the "spirit of Čubura" disappeared.[106] One of the last kafanas, "Kolubara", was transformed into the betting facility while the famed "Čuburska lipa" was demolished in early 2018. It was named after the linden tree, planted in 1924, brought from Lipik spa. The tree was also cut.[107] "Sokolac", at the corner of the Maksima Gorkog and Sazonova streets, was closed in 2017.[108]

Other kafanas

Other famed venues, outside of Skadarlija, include:

On the left, the Hotel Moskva, often being named as the most beautiful building in Belgrade, is renowned for its restaurant and, especially, pastry shop. On the right, famous Moskva Šnit cake
Sign of the Grmeč kafana, one of three members of the infamous "Bermuda Triangle"

The Bermuda Triangle is a colloquial name for three rivaling kafanas in the Makedonska Street ("Kafana Federation"). At various points of time, all three were closed, but two were later reopened:[18][134] The bohemian clientele included city's best known artists, writers, actors, journalists, musicians and city luminaries, like Momo Kapor, Pavle Vuisić, Mika Antić, Raša Popov [sr], Minimaks, Bata Živojinović, Ivo Andrić, Zoran Radmilović, Olivera Marković, Miloje Orlović [sr], Borislav Mihajlović Mihiz, Đoko Vještica [sr], Zuko Džumhur, Bogdan Tirnanić. The name emerged in the 1960s, as many writers and journalists would "disappear" between three kafanas, sometimes for several days. The name was popularized in the early 1980s by the journalist Radmila Jovović. Journalists of the nearby Politika gathered in "Grmeč", of the Radio Belgrade in "Pod Lipom", while "Šumatovac" was a neutral, joint territory. The venues were also known for one of the symbols of the old-style Serbian kafanas: red-white checkered tablecloths. When Knez Mihailova Street was turned into the pedestrian zone in 1987, journalists asked the same for the Makedonska Street (where five additional kafanas formed "Octagon" with the Bermuda Triangle), but the motion wasn't adopted.[135][136][137]

Bakelite insulator from the first telephone line in Serbia, opened in 1883. It was on the façade of the "Tri Lista Duvana" until the building was demolished in 1989. Now exhibited in the PTT Museum [sr]

Well known venues closed since the economic collapse in the late 1980s, include:

Others: "Marš na Drinu" (Dorćol, known for the secretive Serbian New Year celebrations during Communism), "Beli grad" (Zeleni Venac), "Morava", "Plitvice" (Šumice), "Složna braća" (demolished to make way for the Hotel Park), "Vardar" (Cvetni trg), "Tabor" (Vračar), "Mala Astronomija", "Velika astronomija" (both in Savinac),[155] "Arilje", "Zona Zamfirova" (Cvetni trg, opened in 1937, demolished in 2011),[156] "Prešernova klet" (Dečanska Street, since 1952, first slot club, then Black Turtle pub), "Dušanov grad" (Terazije),[157] "Kragujevac", "Bosna", "Rad", "Starac Vujadin", "Stara varoš" (Zeleni venac).[158][159]

Cultural and historical significance

Zlatna Moruna, gathering place of the Young Bosnia revolutionaries in the 1910s

Historian Dubravka Stojanović singles out kafanas from other institutions of the civil society (salons, clubs, associations), as the first institute of the new society, both in terms of chronology and importance. She described it as the first democratic space for which no "invitation" (literacy, membership card, party discipline) was needed. Due to the volatile history in the Balkans, various kafanas served as gathering places and recruitment centers for numerous wars and rebellions: "Crni Konj" (Zadarska Street; for individual fighters in the Serbian-Ottoman Wars), "Kragujevac" (Karađorđeva Street); Garibalidians, Italian volunteers in the Serbian-Turkish Wars of 1876–1878, "Zlatni Krst" (Serbian volunteers for the same conflict), etc.[18]

Kafanas were also important for the economy. First public places for drafting contracts and merchant treaties were kafanas. This is why they originally developed around the main merchant areas and old khans. They were socially important as they allowed for the poor classes to participate in economic activities, too. Most important in this sense were "Zisina kafana" (opened before 1826 in Savamala), "Kod Paje kantardžije" and nearby "?". Kafanas hosted numerous firsts in Belgrade: bank (First Serbian Bank, in "Staro Zdanje", went bankrupt in 1875), exchange office, labor market, stock exchange (in "Bosna", corner of Karađorđeva and Travnička, in 1895), insurance office, private medical office, photographic studio. Every guild had "its own" kafana.[18]

Kafana's importance in Belgrade's history is such that numerous historical or anecdotal events occurred in them:[22][36]

As of 2023, on the administrative territory of Belgrade, there were 18 former or still operational catering and tourist facilities which were declared cultural monuments:[44]

Ruski car Tavern, built in 1926 in the main commercial and pedestrian zone, the Knez Mihailova Street. A cultural monument since 1987
Building Location Built Protected Notes
Meyhane of Uzun Mirko [sr] Mislođin, Obrenovac <1806 1969 outside of city proper
Janić Kafana [sr] 19 Karađorđeva Street, Ostružnica early 1800s 1972 outside of city proper
Janić Shops [sr] 4 Karađorđevih Ustanika Square, Ostružnica early 1800s 1971 outside of city proper
Kafana ? 6 Kralja Petra Street, Kosančićev Venac 1823 1981 still operational
Hammam of Prince Miloš 14 Admirala Geprata Street, Savamala 1837 1948 not operational
Manak's House 7 Gavrila Principa Street, Savamala <1840 1963 part of the Ethnographic Museum
Old Meyhane in Veliko Selo [sr] Maršala Tita Street, Veliko Selo <1850 1981 outside of city proper
Old Meyhane in Barajevo [sr] Bagrdan, Barajevo <1850 2001 outside of city proper
Old Meyhane in Ušće [sr] Ušće, Obrenovac c.1850 1968 outside of city proper
Hotel Srpska Kruna [sr] 56 Knez Mihailova Street, Kalemegdan 1869 1981 city library
Hotel Nacional (Belgrade) [sr] 9 Pariska Street, Kosančićev Venac 1869 1984 administrative building
Steam Mill 15 Vojvode Mišića Street, Savamala 1902 1987 Radisson Blu Old Mill hotel
Hotel Bristol 50 Karađorđeva Street, Savamala 1912 1987 closed in 2018
Kafana Ruski Car 7 Knez Mihailova Street, Republic Square 1926 1987 still operational
Hotel Prag [sr] 27 Kraljice Natalije Street, Savamala 1929 2013 still operational
Hotel Avala [sr] Avala, Beli Potok 1931 2007 still operational
Hotel Mažestik [sr] 28 Obilićev Venac Street, Obilićev Venac 1937 1997 still operational
Hotel Metropol 69 Bulevar kralja Aleksandra, Tašmajdan 1957 2001 still operational

Modern nightlife

Belgrade Youth Center, founded in 1964, dance hall from 1966, disco club from 1969

Prolonged dance evenings "till dawn" (igranke) were the precursors of modern nightlife after World War II. In the new, Communist regime, new types of music became almost obligatory, like the kozaračko kolo [sr], but in the period immediately following the Allied victory this music was mixed with Russian romances, jazz, swing and boogie-woogie. Western music especially became popular after the film Sun Valley Serenade with Glenn Miller's music reached Yugoslav cinemas. Dances included tango, waltz, foxtrot, slowfox, and especially popular trucking, or treskavac in Serbian ("shaking dance"). However, with political changes regime's attitude soon switched. By the end of 1945 the American music was labeled as "capitalist fun which spoils our youth and leads into sexual and other pathologies". Accused of undermining discipline and public moral, the trucking was officially banned in the early 1946. By 1951 the state propaganda attacked boogie-woogie ("eccentric, vulgar and decadent"), while entire public campaign was orchestrated in 1952 against jazz, which "influenced the animal sensations". This first post war period of dance nights lasted from 1945 to 1963.[168]

First night clubs, referred to as disko[teka] in Serbian, were opened in the second half of the 1960s as a result of the popularity of rock and roll. First rock and roll news can be found in press already in 1956. Public reaction lacked the disputes and rage of the previous types of music, like jazz or contemporary dance in the late 1940s and early 1950s. It appeared that the older generations didn't perceive rock and roll, nor the accompanying way of dancing or dressing as a problem, so the reaction was cold and indifferent.[61] By this time, Yugoslavia was more open to foreign influences compared to other Communist states, citizens freely travelled abroad, and no one stopped creation of numerous rock bands, called vokalno-instrumentalni sastavi, or VIS ("vocal-instrumental band").[169]

At first, the penetration of rock and roll was slow, but in time gained momentum so the media couldn't ignore it. One of the pioneer promoters was Nikola Karaklajić, chess master and editor at Radio Belgrade. His TV show Concert for crazy young people was the most popular. It premiered in January 1967 and was aired once a month until 1969. Another popular TV show was Maksimetar (1970-1972). Among the printed media, the most influential was Džuboks, which debuted on 3 May 1966.[61]

Shy 1960s

Entry in the clubs was free or the fees were symbolic. Some had passes, but they were easily obtained. Still, the security guards had a great latitude letting someone in. People were searched and checked whether they are underage or intoxicated. First clubs were small and located in private houses and apartments with city authorities being bent on closing them.[61]

Euridika

Predecessor of the future disco clubs opened in Vračar, in a private house at 33 Molerova Street in 1961, becoming one of the most important cultural hotspots in the late 1960s. The club was an offshoot of the Youth Theater DADOV [sr], founded in 1958. The idea was that, through drinks and dance nights, the money for the theater will be collected. Once a week, a Club of the popular music lovers gathered here.[61] The building itself was built in 1921 and was the pre-war house of the Tomić family. Performers, some of which launched their careers here, included Elipse, Safiri, Zlatni Dečaci, Dobri Drugovi, Crni Biseri, Crni Panteri (founded by the students from Congo Kinshasa), Boba Stefanović, etc. When Crni Panteri performed Shake Your Hips, the ecstatic audience trashed and broke the furniture. The audience was mostly divided in two groups: the Beatles fans and the Rolling Stones fans.[170][171] It was closed in the late 1970s.

Youth Center - 202

Belgrade Youth Center, at 22 Makedonska Street, was opened in 1964, while Dancing Hall was introduced on 16 October 1966. Live performances included the most popular rock bands of the day, like Siluete, Crni Biseri, Džentlmeni, Zlatni Dečaci. Club had a matinée (15:00-19:00) and night programs (19:30-21:00). It was adapted into the discothèque "202" in 1969 in collaboration with Radio Belgrade 202 station which directly broadcast the program from the club. The disco was noted for the lack of problems or incidents and as a meeting place of the children from the wealthy families ("working class youth almost couldn't be seen in it").[61][172] In the late 1970s, it became the gathering place for the punk enthusiasts.[61]

Kod Laze Šećera

Jevrem Grujić's House, location of the Belgrade's first disco club "Kod Laze Šećera" in 1967

First proper disco in Belgrade, "Kod Laze Šećera", was opened on 24 April 1967. It was announced that Lord Snowdon would attend the event, but he didn't show up. The venue was located at 17 Ive Lole Ribara Street (today Svetogorska), in the Jevrem Grujić's House, in Stari Grad. It was close to the Atelje 212 theatre, so at the opening almost the entire acting troop was present, so as the dramatists, authors, painters, etc., including Mira Trailović, Jovan Ćirilov, Ivan Tabaković, Dušan Matić. Founder of the disco was Lazar Šećerović, a translator, bon vivant and direct descendant of Jevrem Grujić. At the time of opening, other discos existed only in Paris, London and Milan, while it was 10 years before the famous Studio 54 in New York City was opened. Working hours were from 18:30 to 1:00, chaste compared to the modern times. The music was mostly soul: Aretha Franklin, Otis Redding, The Temptations, Dusty Springfield. The venue was small, situated in the basement, but still was a major improvement in the nightlife offer in the city, credited with "democratization of fun".[172][169]

The club introduced several other "firsts", like girls without male companions, people dancing alone or after parties when selected groups would move to the upper floor for more quiet fun. The club was also called "Lola", after the street, and was hailed as the "only disco between Trieste and Vladivostok". Guests included members of the international jet-set who visited Belgrade: Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, Catherine Deneuve, Judi Dench, Nina Ricci, Omar Sharif, Marisa Berenson, Alain Delon, Claudia Cardinale. During the day, rock bands were practicing in the club. The venue also hosted the first pop art exhibition in Yugoslavia, which included Roy Lichtenstein's graphics and Andy Warhol's lithographs.[169][173]

Opening was supported by the basketball club KK Crvena Zvezda. Though all the necessary permits were obtained, not everything went smooth. Municipal authorities debated about it, and some described it as a "lair for the young alcoholics, junkies, debauchers and rich kids." Owners claimed that the venue is a clean and decent location, adapted with taste which included the green Italian wallpapers and black floor linoleum. They also defended the club naming celebrities who were regular guests: Milena Dravić, Vera Čukić, Arsen Dedić, Branko Pleša, Biljana Nevajda. Neighboring citizens were against the club. They tried administratively to prevent it from being open but when that failed, they sabotaged the venue as they could, like throwing garbage at the guests who were entering the house. Concerns showed to be substantiated in the beginning, as the guests were making loud noise at the entrance and unbridled youngsters, mostly of wealthy parents, were causing too much of a commotion with their cars, vespas and motorbikes. Owners later placed two guards outside who had a specific duty to keep the noise down.[61]

The club came under the attack of numerous bans and regulations, including the one which allowed dancing, but banned music. The authorities also accused the club of playing "enemy music", of destroying the morality of the Socialist youth and declared it a CIA headquarters in Yugoslavia. Military generals in the state's Supreme Defense Council concluded that club has to be closed.[169][173] Fighting both the authorities and the neighbors proved too much for the owners, so they closed the club in 1968. Still, it remains as the first such venue in entire Yugoslavia and the wider region of the Communist ruled states.[61] For a while, secret parties continued to be organized.[173]

KST

KST, short for "Klub studenata tehnike", was unofficially established in 1952 for the students of three technical faculties (architecture, electrical engineering and civil engineering). It was located in one of the laboratories, almost in the basement, at 73 Bulevar Revolucije, today Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra. High School for Technical Engineering, to which the faculties were subordinated at the time, made the club official in March 1954 which was used both for studying and dance parties.[61][174][175][176]

Disco was opened on 29 February 1968. Originally, it had only one magnetophon. The music was various: funk, soul, disco, rock and roll, twist, waltz.[61][174] The club was known for promoting young musicians and some of the most important Yugoslav rock-groups performed here in their early days, like the Riblja Čorba, Poslednja Igra Leptira, Haustor or Partibrejkers. The first "unplugged" concert in the Balkans was performed here by the Bijelo Dugme. Many groups recorded albums here. In time, it became "another house" for musicians, and the club which "makes DJs". The club also organized theatrical and poetry evenings, freshmen welcome parties, fashion shows and the famous pre-New Year's Eve masquerade balls.[175][176] Performers included greatest stars of Serbian acting, like Ljuba Tadić, Olivera Marković, Snežana Savić [sr], Tanja Bošković, Petar Kralj and Ljuba Moljac. The venue also became an important place for public debates and discussions.[177]

The club was always known for the relaxed, home-style dress code (sweaters, hoodies, plaid shirts, no heavy make-up, high heels, tight jackets, etc.). As one of the first students' and night clubs in the city, and the only one from this period that still works, KST achieved cult status among the city youth.[175] A 2019 documentary about KST was filmed by Zoran Bulović, commemorating venue's 65th anniversary.[177]

SKC

"Studentski Kulturni Centar", shortened to SKC, was opened in 1968 at 48 Kralja Milana Street. It was later regarded as the way for Yugoslav president Josip Broz Tito to appease the riots which erupted as the 1968 student rebellion. After punk music arrived in Belgrade, the visitors mostly belonged to the punk subculture. In time it became the "safe haven" for avant-garde artists and alternative rock music in the 1970s, and the emerging New wave music since the late 1970s, including the regular performances of Idoli, Električni Orgazam and Šarlo Akrobata.[61][178]

It became the central stage of the alternative cultural life in Belgrade and numerous bands began their careers or performed in the venues basements, improvised studios and workshops, next to the most popular bands of the era. The SKC have two main spaces inside: small club on the ground level and larger hall at the first floor. Parts of the building serve as the café and as the bookstore, and the venue also hosts art exhibitions.[178] As of 2023, SKC is still operational.

Joyfull 1970s

At the start of the decade the night life for the young was still undeveloped. Reports lamented that, "unfortunately", kafanas were still predominant. The alcohol was freely served to the minors, while in some venues dinner was obligatory. Modern kafanas, adapted for the youth, didn't exist. There were only several dance halls where "better bands" performed, the rest organized "typically dilettante and irresponsible" dance parties. Only few had jukeboxes or other "automated musical machines". Most popular disco clubs were "Youth Center", "Go-Go Dancing" in Tašmajdan and "Disco Club 202" in the old synagogue in Zemun. All youth venues had expensive tickets.[179]

However, later in the 1970s, Belgrade began to resemble other world metropolises. Numerous internationally important events developed: theatrical festival BITEF, film festival FEST (1970), musical festival BEMUS, Belgrade jazz festival (1973), Belgrade review of Yugoslav film (1973), etc. Regarding night life, fashion or music, everything was generally toned down from the wild 1960s. Major influence came from the Western Europe, mainly through Italy, and was considered as something modern and advanced. Rock and roll was especially popular.[61]

By the mid-1970s, disco clubs turned into the exclusive venues and the entry fees became too high, though some included a drink. Drinks, in general, also became expensive as various inspection rarely visited the venues, so visitors smuggled alcohol into the clubs. Though the largest crowds were during weekends, the clubs were open during the entire week, usually having only one non-working day, varying from club to club. Working hours mostly didn't extend after 2 a.m. In order to avoid the intent of the authorities to close them, the clubs secured patronage of some state-owned institution, usually a sport society, and were registered as the "restaurants with music".[61] In 1978, a modern caffe bar "Zlatni papagaj" was opened in the Đure Jakšića Street. It was planned as the standing bar for quick drinks, so it had no chairs.[26]

In the late 1970s, a "Dijalog" was opened in Ušće, the first restaurant on the proper boat, as opposed to the later ones opened on the barges. After Slobodan Milošević came to power in the late 1980s, he was interviewed on "Dijalog" by The Times correspondent Dessa Trevisan.[180]

Crveno i crno

Disco club "Crveno i crno" was opened in 1970, in the Miloša Pocerca Street, in West Vračar. It soon achieved the cult status. The club was opened by Dejan Dodig Džamba, with the assistance of the Youth Organization of Savski Venac. Entry was free, but it lasted only for a season and was closed in 1971. Youth Organization tried to open another disco club on the same location by themselves, but they were unsuccessful.[61]

Cepelin

In 1971, "Cepelin", the best and the most famous disco in Yugoslavia was opened. Some chroniclers consider it the first proper disco club in Belgrade, open to everyone.[181] It was located at 28 Ilije Garašanina Street, in Tašmajdan. Its opening was described as night life's "excelleration". At the opening night, state and military top officials and members of the diplomatic corps were present. The caviar was served from the Josip Broz Tito's plates. At the peak of its popularity, "Cepelin" had 10,000 members. It had three dance floors, state of the art sound system and the interior was patterned after the famed London club "La Valbonne": floors covered with the black artificial leather, dominant brass ornaments, luxurious booths, plush covered armchairs, twenty different types of mirrors, 1,000 colored lightbulbs, and strobe lights above each dance floor.[172] It also had blacklights, projector which emitted psychedelic music videos on the walls which were mostly black. The rooms were stuffy and the colors of the lights changed depending on the DJ who was working that night. Parts of the walls and furniture were in red, with colorful flower prints.[61]

The most popular persons in the venue included DJ Mister Čupko, and the head-to-toe tattooed main bouncer, nicknamed Oumpah-pah after the comic book character. Đorđe Božović Giška and his entourage were the regulars.[181] The club was located next to the Fifth Gymnasium and sponsored by the Tašmajdan Sports and Recreation Center. It was opened by Saša Nikolić and had working hours of 16:00-21:00 (matinée, for the minors) and 21:00-24:00, for adults, with strict rules on not allowing the minors to stay during the later program. DJs, including Saša Radosavljević and Raša Petrović, were located in the glass booth above the dance podium. It was renovated and expanded in the mid-1970s and included live performances from the most popular Yugoslav rock bands. Most frequent performers were the Korni Grupa. "Cepelin" was closed in 1980.[61] It was closed abruptly, citing renovation. When it was reopened, it was a different venue, renamed to "Taš".

Akvarijus

Hotel Mažestik, where the club of the same name was situated

Though "Cepelin" was unrivaled, "Akvarijus" was the only one which could attract some of the "Cepelin" visitors. "Akvarijus" was located at 7 Deligradska Street near the Slavija Square, in the basement of the painter Radovan Trnavac Mića [sr] house. It had mostly fancy clientele with deep pockets (šminkeri), consisting of rich lawyers, politicians and athletes. The clientele differed from the other similar venues as the club was attended by the exclusive members of the city elite (sports, film, fashion) and soon became well known outside of Yugoslavia. Music included Bee Gees, Boney M, Éric Charden, Amanda Lear.[172] Once a week, "Akvarijus" was showing animated films.[61]

"Akvarijus" was opened by Dodig in 1972, after he left "Crveno i crno". The club was sponsored by the Radnički Sports Association [sr]. Though its name means aquarius, it was actually named after the large aquarium which occupied the central room. As its fashionable visitors mostly had no fixed working hours, so didn't the club: it was open every day, all night. It was small, consisting of three rooms. Central room had a bar, one room was adapted for sitting and third was for dancing. The venue was closed in 1983.[61]

Other clubs

Rebel 1980s

By this time, DJ's became stars in their own right. The most popular was Zoran Modli.[61]

Akademija

Building in which the famed club Akademija was located 1981–2011

At the end of 1981, "Akademija" club, one of the most famous and influential in Belgrade, was opened at 53 Knez Mihailova Street, in the dark basement of the Gallery of the Painting Academy, hence the name. It was a rock and roll venue, a meeting place of the rockers, artists, politicians' children, young and avant-garde rebels, etc. The original line-up of Ekaterina Velika gathered here (Milan Mladenović, Margita Stefanović, Bojan Pečar). Other musicians who performed included Električni Orgazam, Partibrejkers, Psihomodo Pop, Toni Montano, etc. Visitors of the elite discos avoided it completely as it was considered a "hole which shocks and provokes". "Akademija" was an important part in the growing up and maturing of generations to come and survived until 2011, when it was finally closed,.[172][183] Despite the public protests, petitions and online activism from the fans and the celebrities, city refused to help with the situation and the debt-collectors closed the venue.[174][184][185]

"Akademija" is described today as a "separate state" during the 1980s, and "city phenomenon", West-oriented, which forged a new culture of having fun, influenced by the unique concerts on the stage which was right next to the audience.[186][187] With the neighboring "Zvezda", it was the main gathering point of the Belgrade youth of the decade.[188] They are described as meeting point of two Belgrades - one, which smelled on beer, tobacco and marijuana, and the one with fragrances of the Western perfumes and Italian leather shoes. It was inconceivable at the time that one person would visit both venues.[181]

Zvezda

Rivaling club "Zvezda" was opposed to "Akademija" in every way, including the location: it was right across, at 51 Knez Mihailova Street, at the back entrance into the basement of the Grčka Kraljica restaurant.[181] Opened in 1983, it became the symbol of the fanciness, with diametrically opposite interiors, music and general concept from "Akademija". In order to get a membership card for "Zvezda", people needed political and other connections, but the best pass was a modern and attractive look.[172] This included expensive imported perfumes and wardrobe.[181] Rivaling clubs were so different, that just by someone's attire, you might guess where they will enter.[183] After "Zvezda" was closed, another club, called "Bassement" was opened instead in the 2000s, but that club was later closed, too.[185]

Duga

Club "Duga" was located at 5 Sredačka Street. It was patterned after the wishes of the rich and opened with an idea to gather the rich and famous, pretty girls and show-business stars. It soon achieved a status of the "club for the famous".[172] "Duga" was opened in 1981 in Zvezdara. It was the most exclusive venue in its time.[61] The club was a rearranged basement of the private house and over 200,000 Deutsche Marks were spent on the adaptation which was work of architect Ilija Gligorijević. It was said that an average, rich customer would "spend per night as much as a factory worker earns in a year". However, one visitor ignored the fanciful dress code and artificial manners: legendary actor Zoran Radmilović, who lived in the vicinity, would regularly come in slippers for a coffee.[183]

JAT

Beograđanka skyscraper. Club "Šestica" was on the 6th floor

One of the first barges, opened in the late 1970s. It was originally intended only for the employees of the JAT Airways, but soon became a gathering place for the regular clientele, becoming a famous venue in the city. It was derelict by the 2000s, when it was sold to a private owner. Before it was renovated, the barge detached and was taken by the river downstream. The owner took emergency measures to keep it afloat, but in January 2019 it sank under the heavy snowfall. The river barge itself was considered one of the best, produced in Smederevo.[189]

Other clubs

In the mid-1980s, an expansion of new disco clubs began. Best known were:[61]

The 1980s saw the origins of the splavovi, which will experience a full expansion later in the 1990s:

Criminal 1990s

Splavovi or barge clubs in the neighborhood of Ušće

The 1990s in Serbia were marked with calamities: break-up of Yugoslavia, wars, economic sanctions, collapse of the standard of living. Criminals began occupying the clubs and night life in general. Fashion and aesthetics of the turbo-folk became a norm while shootings and killings in disco clubs became regular events.[172] Turbulent period was marked by the shootouts, murders and executions, often in the popular city clubs. Visiting these venues was a high risk.[182]

Disco clubs lost the top position in night fun, as young people turned to the folkotheques (disco clubs with turbo-folk music) and splavovi, or barge-clubs.[181] Among the most popular barges were "Lukas", where singer Aca Lukas started his folk career, assuming the splav's name as his own alias, "Mozzart" (which sank after 2000) and "Triton". By the time the 1990s ended, the splavovi almost completely covered the banks of the Sava and spread into the Danube.[172] First splavovi open for visitors originated in the late 1970s and the first restaurant, named "Argument", was opened in 1983.[17] Barge "Blek Pantersi", owned by the music bend of the same name, was opened in 1990. It was popular until it burned in 2008.[190] The splavovi experienced a boom after 1991 and by the 2010s spread for almost 15 km (9.3 mi) along the Sava. As of today, they remain publicly connected with criminals and numerous incidents.[17] By 2021, there were over 200 cafes, restaurants, kafanas and discos on the barges.[191]

From the summer of 1996, the splavovi from Ušće spread along the bank of Staro Sajmište, too. The barges in Staro Sajmište were the first where "urban" splavovi appeared and the entire sub-culture originating in the venues became mainstream. This barges had "historical importance" for the expansion and acceptance of the venues as an authentic part of the Belgrade's nightlife and tourist offering. However, the constant public conflict between the cheap fun and criminal on the barges, and the solemnity of the neighborhood given its war history as a Sajmište concentration camp, continued for decades. Ultimately, all barges were moved out of Staro Sajmište by the late 2010s.[17]

Second half of the 1990s saw a development of electronic music venues so as a techno and rave scene with international DJs, despite the international sanctions.[192] A strict division developed, with folk venues on the one, and underground, alternative techno clubs on the other side, with the mainstream rock music almost disappearing.

Estrada

The splav opened in 1988 on the Sava Quay under the name "Pingvin", which was soon changed. The first purposely built barge-discotheque, it was a blueprint for all the future venues of this type. It was the first barge with a DJ, and a separated dance floor and booths for sitting. It was well visited since the opening, but the clientele changed in time. Originally, it was made from the "roamers" from all over the city, but with the general criminalization of the society, it became the gathering point for the members of the criminal clans from Zemun and New Belgrade.[17]

Nana

Main rival of Duga", at 3-a Koste Glavinića Street in Senjak. Originally, it was known as an elegant little nightclub with a more urban and sophisticated atmosphere than "Duga".[172] During its "sophisticated" days, "Nana" was known for not playing folk music. Before the criminals began to gather in it, for a while it was a favorite place of the foreign diplomats as many have residences in Senjak. A venue which had a dress code (obligatory suit since 1987),[183] it was "discovered" by the criminals, who began to gather, organizing in local clans. It gained the notoriety of being the first club in which the murder occurred: Andrija Lakonić Laki, unofficially claimed by many to be a police snitch, was murdered in "Nana" on 24 March 1990. The murder revealed connections between the criminals and the secret police. Darko Ašanin and Vesko Vukotić were accused. The trial dragged on, with many criminals and policemen appearing, including the inspector Miroslav Bižić, who was accused of hiding the evidence and helping Vukotić to flee the country. The case was never closed. Bižić, who left the police, was assassinated in 1996, while Ašanin was murdered in June 1998. These crimes also remained unsolved.[193]

The club was closed and later reopened but became a "place to be avoided".[182] On 17 December 2017, Aleksandar Savković, member of the FK Rad's supporter group, was killed in front of the club and another person was wounded.[193]

Lukas

Hotel Metropol, location of the club "Sunset"

Though opened in 1985, its fame rests in the 1990s. It was located on the left bank of the Savar, in Ušće. By the mid-1990s it became extremely popular and became gathering place for the members of two criminal clans, Voždovac and Zvezdara. On 27 November 1994 there was a major shootout, which included the river police. Several clan members were wounded, while Bojan Banović, member of the Voždovac clan was killed. Shootings continued in the times to come. As of 2017, a splav with a different name is on the location.[182] One of the first to play turbo-folk music, the "Lukas" has been described as the "monument to the 1990s".[17]

Sunset

The club was located in the Hotel Metropol, at 69 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra. Miroslav Kurak, a participant in the assassination of a journalist Slavko Ćuruvija in 1999, was a co-owner. The club was known for its mixed clientele: businessmen, members of the diplomatic corps but also numerous gangsters, including Rade Ćaldović Ćenta and Milorad Ulemek Legija, later convicted of the assassination of Serbian Prime Minister Zoran Đinđić. Employees of the club used the last floor in the hotel. In 2002, police raided the premises and discovered huge amount of guns. Several days later, a fire broke out on this floor, officially due to the bad wiring.[182]

Industrija

The most popular techno rave club. It was located at 19 Vasina Street and played only electronic music.[192] Described as a place with "numerous fairytales, myths and truths" told about it. The venue later hosted the "Ilegala" café, while today it is a bakery.[185] "Industrija" is described as "writing the history of the Serbian electronic scene" and the "place where everything started". It was opened in 1994 in the former boiler room of the Philosophy Faculty. DJs of the developing electronic music included Deki S.T.R.O.B., Mark Wee, Vlada Eye, Velja Innvision, Gordan Paunović, Vlada Janjić, Boža Podunavac, X-periment, TTP, Sugardaddy O. Despite international sanctions imposed on Serbia at the time, foreign DJs performed 2-3 times a month, including Moby, Mark EG and DJ Hell.[194]

Underground

Barney York at Industrija on 6 May 1995
Opposed to the alternative scene was the enormously popular turbo-folk, a major figure being Svetlana Ceca Ražnatović. Her private life, with connections to criminal, mirrored the social paradigm of the era, further boosting her popularity[195]

Located in the cave below the Belgrade Fortress, it was known for the specific type of music: acid jazz, funk, drum and house. It enjoyed a cult status for years but after the change of proprietors, the choice of music also changed and the club began playing folk music. It was closed later.[185]

Other clubs

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