Warburton's parents were farmers in Nottinghamshire, and he was educated at King's School, Canterbury, then studied archaeology, anthropology and English at the University of Cambridge. He subsequently did an MSc in landscape ecology at Wye College in Kent.
Notes from obits
Only publication: The Birds And Flora Of The Saltee Islands (with Perry in 1977),
He was initially employted as a landscape architect with the Derry Development Commission in 1972.
Hello Marina
I thought I'd reach out to you as I wanted to discuss what I fear may be a sensitive issue as I have a few concern about the use of photos of paintings of people in English Wikipedia articles that were created by the Wiki Unseen Project.
The project itself looks a brilliant way to recognise people's achievements and a wonderful way to involve individuals and communities in appreciating what Wikipedia has written about them. And some of the artworks the project has produced do look really impressive, and it's great that Wikipedia is being used as a catalyst for such creativity. My concern is that this encyclopaedia should never be using paintings to give an artist's impression of what someone looked like as the main Infobox image whjere a modern day photograph is available and more suitable. Wherever possible, a photograph should be used. My rationale is as follows, and I'm hoping you will understand where I'm coming from when I explain my thoughts.
The artists, as skilled as they are, are stated to be using photographs to create their own artistic interpretation of what a person looked like. In the case of a deceased person such as XX and YY, there is a perfectly usable 'Fair Use rationale' for uploading a copyright photographic image of them. Put simply, there is no chance of ever getting another photograph of that person alive ever again that can be used as a Creative Commons image, so 'fair use' applies on English Wikipedia. See XXXX.
If an artist is using a photograph of a deceased person as inspiration from which to draw a portrait of that person, then the photo could, in almost all conceivable circumstances be uploaded as 'fair use'.
If the artist is drawing a living person who is sitting for them, then a photograph could just as easily be taken and used here. That would be more encyclopaedic.
If the artist is drawing a living person from a photograph, then that would deemed to be a 'derivative work' and not be acceptable for uploading to Wikimedia Commons without the consent of the original image rights owner. It would also be less encyclopaedic than the photograph, so why not get permission to upload the photograph itself?
If the artists is not basing their work upon either a photograph, video or the real person, then it would be just the artist's own imagination and interpretation and this would therefore not be usable as it would be deemed original research.
If the artist is themselves notable, then showing their works of other people is perfectly legitimate on the artist's page, and maybe also on occasions on the subject's Wikipedia page.
But where a photograph is available of a deceased person - irrespective of their cultural origin or background, then I do not feel Wikipedia is the place to showcase an artists work of that person. It is akin to Original research and not valid for the encyclopaedia.
Artist's representation of a person created by projects such as Wiki Unseen are fine to be uploaded to Wikimedia Commons because there they have additional uses and opportunities for re-use, not just within a Wikipedia page.
Artist's representation of a person created by projects such as Wiki Unseen are fine to be used as a demonstration of how Wikipedia and its unfortunate biases can inspire people to be creative and highlight lesser known figures.
My views above are my own, but are not restricted to representations of people. I have been equally unhappy to see non-scientific 'artwork' created by amateurs used to recreate what a fossil organism might once have looked like in life. I have also had to explain to amateur artists that their own artwork have no place on Wikipedia, where they are seen more as an attempt to promote their artistic skills than to represent the people they are interpreting.
None of this is to decry the Wiki Unseen project itself - just that products from that project should not be used in lieue of accurate photographic imagery under a fair use rationale of that person.
I appreciate my thoughts might be taken as criticism of the project, which it most certainly isn't, just that having the goal of putting drawing of people made from photographs rather than the photographs themselves does not serve the encyclopaedia as effectively as little to
First, I should probably declare from the outset that I'm embarassed to say I'm one of those white, male cis, Northern hemisphere editors (albeit over 60!) who tend to predominate here, but I do what I can to redresss the balance whenever possible. So please bear in mind if I may say something that is not the most sensitive, it will be becasue of my sheltered narrow or sheltered upbringing rather than any intent to cause offense.
Secondly,
say that I think the project is a great way to involve people in recognising the achievements
{re|MMiller (WMF)} I've been mulling over my reply above, and wanted to expand on the idea of 'practice tasks'. Currently, we have three task levels: Easy; Medium and Hard. Within Easy we have two ticked options (copy editing, and adding links). Have you considered renaming Easy to Easy & Practice, with 'Practice' being a third ticked option? Then, as one swipes through the editing suggestions, alternating within the first ten or so suggestions, would be various practice suggestions, which could be 'guided' rather like the current editing suggestions are. These could be:
Practice Task
Practice Task
Practice Task
Create a Userpage
Add a Link to another Wikipedia page
Add a citation.
Consider adding a few lines about your interests in editing Wikipedia.
But don't share any personal information that may identify you.
Write a sentence in your Sandbox like: 'I live in Canada',
then highlight Canada and click the 'link' icon to link to that country.
Write a sentence in your Sandbox like:
'The diameter of the Earth at the equator is ???? kilometres'.
Then search online for the most reliable-looking source you can find.
Enter the number, then click the 'Cite' button to add that source as a reference. Complete as many fields as you can to create the very best citation.
In the UK, the hen harrier suffers illegal persecution by gamekeepers and their employers on shooting estates, particularly those managed for red grouse shooting, resulting in local and regional extinction in many areas, particularly in England where in 2013 for the first time since the 1960s hen harriers failed to nest successfully[1] despite abundant suitable habitat capable of holding several hundred pairs.[2][3][4] Because of this they are now very rare in many parts of the UK, and under threat in many more areas.[5][6][7]
This problem received a high profile in October 2007 when police investigating the alleged killing of two hen harriers on the Queen's estate at Sandringham in Norfolk interviewed Prince Harry and a friend, William van Cutsem, during their investigation.[8][9] No charges were brought as police were unable to obtain sufficient evidence to prosecute.[3][10][11]
Since the assumed threat to red grouse is the main reason for the persecution of this species in the UK, a project funded by Scottish Natural Heritage, the Game & Wildlife Conservation Trust, the RSPB and Natural England was launched at Langholm Moor in Scotland from 2007. The Langholm Moor Demonstration Project (LMDP), a 10-year investigation, costing £3 million, is intended to see whether grouse and raptors can live side-by-side harmoniously.
A similar project, the Joint Raptor Study (also referred to as the 'JRS' or 'the Langholm Study'), was run on Langholm from 1992 to 1997. The study made many findings and a host of peer reviewed papers were published on the work, in addition to the final report. Among the most often quoted findings were that long term declines in red grouse populations were "extremely unlikely" to be due to raptor predation and were attributed to habitat degradation/loss, and that raptor predation was the most likely explanation for the failure of grouse stocks to recover at Langholm once the population had fallen to a low level.[12] The project ended in 1997, although a follow up supplementary feeding trial was run by the same team in 1998 and 1999. Grouse shooting on the moor was abandoned for the 1998 season onwards.[13][14]
While the Langholm Project is working on practical solutions, another project is focusing on raising awareness about the plight of hen harriers and inspiring people to care about them. Despite its status as England's most threatened bird of prey, most people have never even heard of a hen harrier.[citation needed] Though once seen, it is rarely forgotten. In October 2011, the RSPB began Skydancer, a four-year project with the aim of protecting and promoting the conservation of hen harriers across their remaining breeding grounds in northern England.[15] Skydancer is funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund and United Utilities, and supported by the Forestry Commission.
Public concern over the continued failure of shooting estates to change their approach to moorland predator management led in 2013 and 2014 to the unofficial designation of a day in August as 'Hen Harrier Day', with events planned on various northern uplands of England to highlight the plight of illegal Hen Harrier persecution. [16][17] An epetition to HM Government to ban driven grouse shooting in England was launched at the same time.
[18]
References
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^Cite error: The named reference Etheridge1997 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^ abCite error: The named reference birdguides was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
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^Cite error: The named reference rspb2 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
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^Cite error: The named reference shootingtimes was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference guardian was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference Redpath1997 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference shootingtimes2007 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference rspb4 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference RSPBSkydancer was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Birders Against Wildlife Crime. "Hen Harrier Day". Retrieved 28/6/2014. ((cite news)): Check date values in: |accessdate= (help)
The problem is that, because this wikiproject is still just a sub group of WikiProject Mountains, I'm uncertain how best to configure both bots.
Seeking consensus on minimum editing experience prior to becomeing a Teahouse Host.
Furtherr to the threads above, this is an attempt to gain consensus on whether we need to have the minimum
The Teahouse is a friendly place where users can get answers to question on editing. There is nothing stopping anyone answering a question here at any time - they do not need to sign up as a Teahouse Host. IP editors can and do make valuable contributions, too. Any experienced editor can sign themselves up at Host Landing
pasted text
Because this Project is still only a 'task force' under WP:MOUNTAINS, our article talk page templates work slightly differently than others. As a result, my attempts to create two pages have , I would welcome help to get these two pages functioning properly.
I do get the feeling there is quite an over-use (and probable misuse) of the term 'extirpated' on Wikipedia (search results). For riling up feeling against the serious and quite alarming decline of taxa, I think it's a great, really evocative term to use. It reflects the true feeling of active grubbing up, of excision or of complete annihilation of a plant or animal from some region, habitat or site. But I don't feel it correctly sums up the loss and therefore the conservation status of a species when that loss happens by accident, by ignorance, by non-native introductions, and not by direct human action or intent. Whilst a non-human event like extreme heat can be described as extirpating a species like the Karner Blue(ref) in an 'active voice', I still feel a more passive description of its status should be 'locally extinct' unless there is clear evidence that it was actively removed at the hands of man, and with intent. Not all agree: I found this article which propounds extirpation as a term - even citing our very same Wikipedia article to claim that one is synonymous with the other. Within a population dynamics context, we say that a species went locally extinct, later to document its return. Conveying our findings matters, for when we use local extinction, an essentially nonsensical phrase, rather than extirpation, which is what is meant, then we contribute to, if not create outright, a problem for public understanding of conservation, particularly as local extinction is often shortened to extinction in media sources. The public that receives the message of our research void of context and modifiers comes away with the idea that extinction is not forever or, worse for conservation as a whole, that an extinction crisis has been invented.
Negretti
Henry Angelo Ludovico Negretti (1818–1879) was a maker of scientific instruments and founder of Negretti and Zambra
Early life
Negretti was born Enrico Angelo Ludovico Negretti in Como, Italy on 13 November 1818.
He was one of seven children. His father was was Paolo Negretti (1785–1851) and his first wife, Costanza, daughter of Gaetano Corti.
He and his brothers sought employment abroad, rather than follow their father in operating a horse-drawn coach service over the St Gotthard Pass.
[1]
How do I create two separate Hot Article feeds, where one project is a dependant of another, and where they share the same wikiproject template?
Specifically, I'd like to create a feed for WP:WikiProject Mountains of the Alps task force, which uses the same template as its parent, WP:WikiProject Mountains, namely:
WikiProject Admin Nominators...lost text... ...what the transition from non-admin to admin is like. I would encourage new admins to write about their experiences over that first 6-12 month transition period- their apprehensions, the challenges and the support they received. I admit I haven't checked if one already exists, but a Barnstar saying, effectively, "for great work - you have the makings of a superb admin" could be a way of populating a category that could useful for highlighting future candidates for mentorship/support prior to an RFA. If the change between non-admin and admin work is hard for non admins to appreciate, I'd invite more
TotD
Can't see the wood for the trees? Try using Syntax Highlighter!
When editing a page, it can sometimes be difficult to separate article content from all the other text, such as references, wikilinks, hyperlinks and template text.
To help you distinguish them, turn on 'Syntax highlighting' which shows different colours for different types of content. Just click the marker pen icon () in the editing toolbar. It's just to the left of the 'Advanced' option.
Article text remains black, but wikilinks appear blue, template content appears purple, whilst reference opening and closing commands appear green.
looks like this in source editor (=wikimarkup editor):
Over 7,500 [[cultivar]]s of the culinary or '''eating [[apple]]''' ('''''Malus pumila''''') are known.<ref name="Elzebroek">((cite book|last=Elzebroek|first=A.T.G.|author2=Wind, K. |title=Guide to Cultivated Plants|publisher=CAB International|location=Wallingford|year=2008|page=27|isbn=1-84593-356-7|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YvU1XnUVxFQC&lpg=PT39&dq=apple%20cultivars%207%2C500&pg=PT39#v=onepage&q=&f=false))</ref> Those varieties marked ((smallcaps|agm)) have gained the [[Royal Horticultural Society]]'s [[Award of Garden Merit]].<ref>((cite web | url= https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf | title = AGM Plants - Ornamental | date = July 2017 | page = 63 | publisher = Royal Horticultural Society | accessdate = 2 April 2018))</ref>
With Syntax highliting turned on, it looks like this
Over 7,500 [[cultivar]]s of the culinary or eating [[apple]] (Malus pumila) are known.
<ref name="Elzebroek">((cite book|last=Elzebroek|first=A.T.G.|title=Guide to Cultivated Plants|publisher=CAB International |year=2008 |page=27 |isbn=1-84593-356-7 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YvU1XnUVxFQC&lpg=PT39))</ref>
Those varieties marked ((smallcaps|agm)) have gained the
[[Royal Horticultural Society]]'s
[[Award of Garden Merit]].
<ref>((cite web | url= https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf | title = AGM Plants - Ornamental | date = July 2017 | page = 63 | publisher = Royal Horticultural Society | accessdate = 2 April 2018))</ref>
There are roughly the same number of currently very active Teahouse hosts as
As you will know, a number of names of Teahouse hosts and their selected photos that appear in a random manner inside the Teahouse header. At one time HostBot used to select these names, but that ceased a few years ago, and the featured names are now very out of date.
I have worked through all 29 names, and some seventeen are no longer active here (or their entries are duplicated for some reason), whereas a similar number of other editors are currently very active, but don't appear at all. I propose to swap these around so that visitors actually see the names of currently active editors.
I'm pining the following hosts as they do not yet have any entry in the
Butler
Samuel Butler (1750-1812) was an actor and founder of the Georgian Theatre Richmond, and six? other theatres in Northern England.
Early life
Butler was born in York, and became apprenticed to a corset-maker. On completion of his apprenticeship he pursued a life in acting. REF YP
He eventually joined a touring company of actors, owned and managed by M J Wright. There, whilst performing in the town of Guiseborough, Butler met Wright's wife, Tryphosa. Subsequently, upon Wright's death, Butler who eas then aged 23 married Tryphosa, then aged 46. REF YP
Formation of Theatre
In 1778, Butler applied to the Mayor of the Corporation of Richmond to create a theatre in the town, saying that he: "wished to accommodate the town and county in a more commodious manner and would with their approval and assistance erect a proper theatre" He successfully lease a site there, on condition that he cleared the site and constructed the theatr building at his own risk, paying 5 pounds(units?) per annum,. REF YP
Construction started on May 12, and the theatre was compketed and opened on September 2nd. REF YP
In 1797, Butlers wife, Tryphosa, died and he subsequently married Francis Maria Jefferson, having inherited inherited Tryphosa's theatre company. He and Francis subsequently had two children, -,a daughter born in 1800 and a son, Samuel William, who was born in 1803.REFYP
Butler died in 1812, and was buried in St Mary's Church, Beverley where a memorial plaque placed in the south transept includes the following quotation from Shakespeare: "A poor player who struts and frets his hour upon the stage and then he is heard no more." REF YP
l The company by then comprised theatres in Richmond, Beverley, Harrogate, Kendal, Northallerton, Ulverston and Whitby.
l Francis Maria took over the running of the company after Butler's death. It was run by Butler's son, Samuel William c.1820 until he emigrated to America in 1830.
Whilst voting on the 2017 Community Wishlist Survey, I came across this mention of the Special:Nearby function. . .
Draftspace Articles
Draft:National Pollinator Strategy
Jane Glaister
Jane Margaret Glaister OBE (born 1953) is a cultural heritage specialist and former president of the Museums Association who was awarded her OBE in 2005 for her contribution to museums.[1]
Education
Glaister (nee Whitfield) was educated at Kelvin Hall School in Hull between 1964 and 1971. She subsequently studied for a BA degree in English and History and then joined a Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO) project based in Nigeria. After that she did postgraduate studies in anthropology before beginning her fourty year career in the the museums and culture sector.[2]
Career
Bagshaw Museum, Red House Museum & Oakwell Hall
In 2001 she became the director of arts, heritage and leisure at Bradford Council, and in 2002 was elected president of the UK Museums Association.[3]
She was made redundant by Bradford Council in 2011[4] and in 2012 became the acting chief executive of the Scarborough Museums Trust.[5]
Between 2000 and 2006 she was director at Eureka!, the national children's museum (DUPLICATE DIRECTOR REF)
Allso held directorships of various length tenures at Museums Association(The(2000-2007), Alchemy Anew (2003-4); Creative Industries Development Agency (2011-2015); Creative And Cultural Industries Limited (2005-2013)
Giovanni Gnifetti (13 April 1801-4 December 167) was a parish priest and mountaineer from the village of Alagna Valsesia in Italy. In 1842 he became the first person to successfully reach the 4,554 metres (14,941 ft) summit of the Signalkuppe on the Monte Rosa massif in Italy.
He served as the chaplain and deputy parish priest in Alagna before becoming its priest in 1834, a post he retained until his death.
It was largely as a result of his book, Nozioni topografiche del Monte Rose that many Italian and foreign tourists began to visit the region.[1]
Honours
In 1856 the king of Sardina, Vittorio Emmanuelle II, honoured Gnifetti with the order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus, and in 1866 the Turin Alpine Club gave him honourable membership.[1]: 383
Although known in the German language as the Signalkuppe, this high summit is known in the Italian as the Punta Gnifetti. The mountain refuge, the Gnifetti Hut (Italian: Cabane Giovanni Gnifetti), in the Aosta Valley is also named in his honour.
commas after dates at start of sentences. e.g. In February 1987, the road running between . . .
A troop garrison, known as the Casermetta, was active for many years at the Col de la Seigne,[when?]
format of World War II / second World War (both formats used)
italics for emphasis
The English-language titles of compositions (books and other print works, songs and other audio works, films and other visual media works, paintings and other artworks, etc.) are given in title case, in which every word is given an initial capital except for certain less important words (as detailed at WP:Manual of Style/Capital letters § Composition titles). The first and last words in a title are always capitalized. Capitalization in foreign-language titles varies, even over time within the same language; generally, retain the style of the original. Many of these items should also be in italics, or enclosed in quotation marks.
any organisation abbreviations? If so- use template
Titles: Use italics for the titles of works of literature and art, such as books, pamphlets, films. The titles of articles, chapters, songs, television episodes, research papers and other short works are not italicized; they are enclosed in double quotation marks.
Words as words: Use italics when mentioning a word or letter (see Use–mention distinction) or a string of words up to one full sentence
Use italics for phrases in other languages and for isolated foreign words that are not common in everyday English
His list, entitled "Statistique minéralogique des environs du Mt-Blanc", catalogued...
In February 1987 the 'Underground Neutrino Observatory' reported the detection of a neutrino event
Valley authorities introduced a 'climate and energy action plan', committing the region to
the authorities now strictly enforce a 'no wild-camping' ban above
By 1989 there had been calls for the creation of an 'International Park' for Mont Blanc...
dd the Mont Blanc Massif to UNESCO's 'Tentative List',
rland, working under the umbrella group, 'proMontBlanc', continue to raise t
Known as the 'Mont Blanc Thermometer', it aims to record, monitor an
All the French parts of the Mont Blanc massif, plus the neighbouring Aiguille Rouges range, have been listed as a Zone naturelle d'intérêt écologique, faunistique et floristique (ZNIEFF). This does...
up launched 'Strategy for the Future' –– a strategic to
Glaciers cover 110 square kilometres (42 sq mi) of the Mont Blanc massif,[6]:26 although other sources quote a larger glaciated area of 170 km2 (66 sq mi) . . . Go find a third source.
s own individual and distinctive response time to changes in snowfall and climate .. . .might need to explain what this ‘response’ means
In 1892 a water pocket, which had - a huge water pocket
alpine climbers found a body on the Glacier du Talèfre, close to the Couvercle Hut. –wikilink to Talefre Glacier.
It had re-emerged, having been carried 3,048 metres (10,000 ft) -round this down
Minerals: The mountaineer and explorer, Edward Whymper, noted that the basin of the Glacier de Talèfre was "considered good hunting ground for crystals - change to English name.
Flora: High up in the middle of the Glacier de Talèfre, completely surrounded by ice, -change to English name
Outstanding tasks
The article is generally underlinked - many people won't know what "biotite mica" or "vascular plants" are
DONE - 1st pass wikilinking done. 2nd TO FOLLOW
DONE Conversely, details of climate data might be better presented in table form rather than as prose.
The article would benefit from a run-through for MOS issues:
DONE adjectival measurements should use hyphens,
DONE *Formatting is generally inconsistent - sometimes books include publisher locations and sometimes not
DONE some publication names aren't italicized when they should be, etc
I appreciate that a lot of work has gone into this article, but in my opinion it needs some fundamental reworking.
The article's structure is confusing, particularly in the history section - we start with a chronological account and then jump into a thematic organization, including subsections that are only sort of historical in nature. We also seem to be missing pieces of the story - for example, there's mention of plane crashes as an aside under Glaciers, but no mention of these anywhere in the history. Normally we'd expect to see significant events of this type described in the history narrative.
COMMENT Regarding plane crashes: Because the article is about a large range of separate mountains, I deemed the story of a couple of plane crashes on one mountain as not being that significant to the history of the massif as a whole, yet more significant in relation to demonstrating the huge flow of glacier ice downhill over many decades.
There's an overemphasis on tourism details throughout.
Addressed
DONEblockquotes shouldn't have quote marks,
Tables can be hard to interpret. For example, what is your definition of "largest" in the Glaciers table? Where does the information under Observations come from?
DONE - gave clarification of why larger glaciers are emboldened, plus clarification of Observations.
'see also' shouldn't repeat links included inline,
COMMENT: I'm afraid I could not find any instances of 'See Also' links appearing as inline links, too. However, I have now taken the opportunity to add a link to the Swiss Alps and French Alps articles inline, so have removed them from See Also. Although the
there shouldn't be spaces between footnotes,
Images: *There are a lot of them, to the point that they're disrupting the layout and causing blank space. Some of them seem to be more 'artistic' than encyclopedic. For example, the ibex image is visually interesting but doesn't really give us a sense of what the full animal looks like.
DONE - images removed that were creating blank-space when tables were not expanded. Alternative ibex picture used.
File:Zentralbibliothek_Zürich_-_Vallée_de_Chamonix_Traversée_de_la_Mer_de_Glace_-_400017818.jpg: if the author is unknown, how do we know they died over 70 years ago? This is a 20th-century image so it's quite possible they did not
DONE. I relied on what appeared to be a clear public domain Licensing statement on Wikimedia Commons for this Zurich library image, but have now removed it as you highlighted potential concerns.
France does not have freedom of panorama, so depictions of statues and buildings need to include details on the copyright status of the pictured thing as well as the photo itself
DONE(above) - removed three images.
Further reading is hand-formatted while References are templated,
DONE(above)
Daily Mail is not usually considered an RS.
DONE - two new references added.
For all your cite web templates, you should use the title of the website rather than the URL of the website if that website really is the larger "work" in which the cited page is being published.--JFH (talk) 17:47, 27 May 2016 (UTC
DONE
Sourcing
Spotchecks found a few instances of material not supported by cited sources. For example, I don't see mention of a pollution-reduction rationale in this source
DONE: Reference was in the previous sentence, but this has been repeated and sentence also reworded.
You're using the URL of the website hosting the document cited in footnote 4 as the website parameter. This makes it show up as the italicized "work". In this case, I'd say "International Boundary Study" is a series and "Italy – Switzerland Boundary" is the title. All that website is doing is hosting an already published document.
DONE The mean annual temperature in Chamonix is 7.3 °C (45.1 °F), whilst average rainfall is 1,055 millimetres (41.5 in).[2]
DONE On the southern side of the massif, the mean temperature in Courmayeur is slightly lower at 6.3 °C (43.3 °F), whilst average rainfall is slightly higher, at 1,139 mm (44.8 in).[3]
DONE In both Chamonix and Courmayeur the driest month is April; the warmest month is July and the coldest is January.
DONE Average January temperatures for both towns lie between −2.1 °C (28.2 °F) and −2.8 °C (27.0 °F).[2][3]
MB Scraptext
Merrick, Hugh (1974). "1-4, 8". Companion to the Alps. London: B.T.Batsford Ltd. ISBN0-7134-2768X.
Rébuffat, Gaston (1991). The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 finest routes. Kent: Diadem Books Ltd. ISBN0-906371-39-2.
New Gouter Hut, France. Opened 2013, capacity 120 people, wardenedNew Gouter Hut with solar panels. Able to accommodate 120 people, the hut is so popular it still needs to be booked weeks in advance.Interior of Petit Mont Blanc bivouac hut (mountain refuge)
File:Mont Blanc depuis Valmorel 2.jpg|thumb|alt=Snow-covered mountains of the massif|view of the south face of the Mont Blanc massif from the col de la Madeleine
Alpine ibex (Capra ibex), foraging for scraps beside Petit Mont Blanc bivouac hut, Mont Blanc massif, Italy
East ridge (Glacier approach, then rock climb, AD)
Mont Blanc edit notes
Members of the England–based Alpine Club were instrumental in many of the first ascents, usually accompanied by guides from the towns of Chamonix or Courmayeur, such as Michel Croz, Michel Payot and Émile Rey, as well as the Swiss guide, Christian Almer.[12][13
is Almer listed? Check the timeline on the Chamonix.net website
There are over 100 different routes to the summit of Mont Blanc, and of varying degrees of difficulty and danger. All require good fitness, acclimatisation to high altitude, mountain competence and favourable weather conditions. In peak season an estimate 350-400 people per day attempt the summit, with an failure rate of between 40%-100%. In 2012 there were 13 fatalities amongst those attempting to reach the summit.[6]
Normal Routes
Four (??) classic climbing routes lead to the summit of Mont Blanc:
[7][8]
Le-Grand-Couloir showing the route up towards the Gouter Hut
Gouter Ridge (Normal Route)Grade PD. This is the most popular route, known in French as the Voie Des Cristalliers or Voie Royale. Starting from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, the Tramway du Mont-Blanc (TMB) can be taken to reach the Nid d'Aigle (2,372m). The ascent begins by heading towards the Refuge de Tête Rousse (3,167 m) close to the Tête Rousse glacier, then up steep rocks (II) to cross the Goûter Couloir or Grand Couloir, considered very dangerous because of frequent afternoon stone-fall, leading with fixed cables up to the new Goûter Refuge (3817 m) where climbers stay for the night (4 to 6 hours from Nid d'Aigle). From the Goûter Hut, the route then leads up over snow and ice to the Dôme du Goûter (4,304 m), on past the emergency Refuge Vallot (4,362 m) and the steep and narrow L'arête des Bosses (Bosses Ridge) to reach the summit of Mont Blanc (c.5 hours from hut).[5][9]: 207 [10]
First complete ascent on 18 July 1861 by L Stephen, F. Tuckett ith M. Anderegg, J.Bennen and P.Perren.[10]: 55
The route was first climbed on September 17, 1784 by Jean François and Marie Couttet Cuidet. [citation needed]
The Traverse of Mont Blanc, also known in French as La Voie des Trois Mont Blancs or just La Traversée, is a long route graded at PD+.
Starting from Chamonix, the Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi is taken towards the Aiguille du Midi, from where climbers descend a steep, exposed snow arete to the Col du Midi on the Vallee Blanche[citation needed], to reach the Cosmiques Hut (3,613 m) where they spend the night. Very early the next morning the ascent begins, firstly over the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m) then over the shoulder of Mont Maudit (4,465 m) to reach the col de la Brenva, some 500 metres below Mont Blanc summit.[5] Time from Hut to sumit: 6.5-7hours). This popular route is less exposed to danger than the Gouter Route, although under certain conditions both Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit can develop slopes with very high avalanche risk. The first ascent 13 August 1863 by Robert William Head with guides Julien Grange, A. Orset and J. Perrod.[10]
The Grands Mulets Route or historic itinerary remains the normal route for spring skiers, and a reliable route of summer descent for climbers encountering bad weather as it is less exposed to strong winds and has fewer route-finding difficulties than the Gouter Route. However, it is a long glacier ascent, with significant crevasses, exposed to serac fall in ascent, though quickly passed in descent. The climb to reach the Grand Mulets Hut is often regarded as being often technically more difficult than anything found above. (6.5-7hours from Hut to summit)
First complete ascent: 29 July 1859 E.Headland, G.Hodgkinson, C.Hodson and G. Joad with F. Couttet and two other guides.Cite error: A <ref> tag is missing the closing </ref> (see the help page).: 199 [11]: 21
The Miage — Bionnassay — Mont Blanc crossing is usually done in three days, and has been described as a truly magical expedition of ice and snow aretes at great altitude.[12]: 199 The route begins from Contamines-Montjoie, with the night spent in the Conscrits cabin. The following day, the Dômes de Miages is crossed and the night spent at the Durier Hut. The third day proceeds over l'Aiguille de Bionnassay and the Dôme du Goûter, finally reaching the summit of Mont Blanc via the Bosses ridge. Descent to the valley via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul completes the traverse to Chamonix via the Aiguille du Midi cableway.
Miage Face
Brenva Face
Freney Face
Mountaineering dangers
The Mont Blanc Massif averages nearly 100 fatalities a year. A published estimate suggests there have been 6,000-8,000 alpinist fatalities in total, more than on any other mountain.[12]: 208
^ abcFarinetti, T (1867). "Necrologia: Il Parocco Giovanni Gnifetti". Bullettino Trimestrale del Club Alpino Italiano (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano. 2: 379–382. Retrieved 25 April 2017.
^ abCite error: The named reference ChamWeather was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
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