Waraji (草鞋（わらじ）) (IPA: [w̜aɺadʑi]) are light tie-on sandals, made from (usually straw) ropemaking fibers, that were the standard footwear of the common people in Japan.^[1]

Use

Waraji resemble other forms of traditional Japanese footwear, such as zori and geta, with a few key differences. They were historically the simplest form of outdoor footwear (sandals of any type were not worn indoors).^[1] Waraji, due to their cheap and rustic nature, are considered to be a very informal type of footwear, and are not worn with formal kimono. They are typically not worn with tabi socks,^{[citation needed]} and are woven so that the wearer's toes generally protrude slightly over the edge of the shoe.^[2][1]

Waraji were once common footwear in Japan. There are records of waraji in the Heian period (794–1185 CE), with the possibility of waraji having existed before this time.^[3] In the Edo period (1603–1867 CE), geta were worn in cities, but anyone making a long journey wore waraji.^{[4][better source needed]} They were also worn for energetic or prolonged labour.^[1] Their light weight and grip were valued.^[5]

In modern-day Japan, waraji are worn by Buddhist monks,^[2] and by some fishers of mountain streams.^[5] Zori and geta are worn far more commonly by the general population.

Construction

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  Waraji were traditionally made in the home, as shown here (September 1914). Note twine warp, held between hands and toes, and loose-fiber weft, to his right.

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  Pictorial instructions on how to weave zōri (similar to waraji) in Hida Minzoku Mura Folk Village; most Japanese no longer regularly make waraji.

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  These rough festival zōri were made like the instructions, but the straps were wrapped in fabric before they are twisted together.^[a]

In constant use, rice-straw waraji only last three or four days,^[3] or roughly 24 hours of active use^[1] and so people would have to make about a hundred pairs a year, on average, if they wore them constantly. As waraji could be homemade from cheap materials, and many people learned how to make them in childhood, that was not a problem.^[3] Waraji could also be cheaply bought. Travellers carried a supply and discarded them when they were worn out.^[1]

Materials

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  Waraji woven entirely from rice straw (somewhat finer straw, and more tightly packed, than the festival zori above)

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  Waraji with two different-coloured fibers for the warp and weft. Side loops are made from the outer warps of the opposite side; each is woven as a weft across, made into a side loop, and woven back again, trapping the loop

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  Finely-woven waraji from a museum exhibit at the Ninja Museum of Igaryu, showing multiple fibers, indigo dye, and loops secured with whipping

Rice straw is the common and traditional material for weaving waraji.^[2] Long straw (not broken by the processing methods) must be beaten to soften the fibers before use.^[6] Most other ropemaking fibers can also be used, such as cotton, hemp, palm fibers, or even strips of rag.^[2][6] The straps of the waraji might be covered, often with paper.^[1] Cardboard soles are used on some modern commercial designs.^[7]

Tying

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  These waraji are made as in the instructions above, but two small loops are woven on each side (instead of one big foot-crossing loop), and the leftover-warp loops at the heel are retained. A separate rope is then woven through these loops to attach the waraji to the foot.

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  A method of tying the waraji without a fastening around the ankle. (Gion Matsuri, 2009)

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  Another more complex tying variation; the leftover heel loops are drawn through the rear set of side loops, with a separate piece of rope threaded between them. (Jidai Matsuri, 2009)

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  Another tying variation, worn over tabi

There are a number of different ways of tying waraji straps; even historically, there was no standardised method of attaching the shoes to one's feet.

Ceremonial use

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  Waraji hung as offerings in Kyoto

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  A giant o-waraji in Asakusa Temple, Tokyo

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  A pilgrim performing kaihōgyō laces waraji over tabi, 1954

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  The worn-out waraji of monks who have completed the kaihōgyō, 2009

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  An o-waraji is carried into the sea at a waraji festival, Nakiri-jinja, 2006

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  straw- and rag-woven sandals hung as offerings

Traditionally, waraji were donated to temples as offerings for healthy feet and protection on journeys.^[8] This practice, while now less common, is still followed.^[3] More modernly, giant waraji ('o-waraji') kept in temples are touched as a charm for tireless endurance in walking.^[8]