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((short description|Type of Sari))
((Use dmy dates|date=February 2019))
((Use Indian English|date=February 2019))
[[File:Sambalpuri saree1.jpg|thumb|alt=sambalpuri saree design]|right|200px|An intricate ''bandha'' ([[Odisha Ikat|Ikat]]) weave of Sambalpuri sari]]
[[File:Sambalpuri saree pallu.jpg|thumb|alt=mayur design sambalpuri saree pallu]|right|200px|An intricate weave of Sambalpuri sari pallu]]
A '''Sambalpuri sari''' is a traditional handwoven ''bandha'' ([[Odisha Ikat|ikat]]) [[sari]] (locally called ''"sambalpuri bandha"'' sadhi or saree) wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is produced in the [[Sambalpur district|Sambalpur]], [[Balangir district|Balangir]], [[Bargarh district|Bargarh]], [[Boudh district|Boudh]] and [[Sonepur district|Sonepur]] districts of [[Odisha]], India. The sari is a traditional female garment in the [[Indian subcontinent]] consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters in length that is draped over the body in various styles.<ref name= Roshan>Alkazi, Roshan (1983) "Ancient Indian costume", Art Heritage; Ghurye (1951) "Indian costume", Popular book depot (Bombay); Boulanger, Chantal; (1997)</ref>

Sambalpuri saris are known for their incorporation of traditional motifs like [[shankha]] (Conch), [[chakra]] (wheel), phula (flower), all of which have deep symbolism with the native Odia culture. The colours red, black and white represents Lord [[Jagannath|Kaalia]] (Jagannatha)'s face colour. The salient feature of these saris is the traditional craftsmanship of the 'Bandhakala'- the [[Tie-dye]] art reflected in their intricate weaves, also known as Sambalpuri "[[Ikkat]]".  In this technique, the threads are first tie-dyed and later woven into a fabric, with the entire process taking many weeks. These saris first became popular outside the state when the late Prime Minister [[Indira Gandhi]] started wearing them. In the 1980s and 1990s they became popular across [[India]].<ref>[https://www.urmiweaves.com/blogs/news/how-sambalpuri-cotton-sarees-are-suitable-for-all-seasons"How sambalpuri sarees are suitable for all season"] ((Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220113164102/https://www.urmiweaves.com/blogs/news/how-sambalpuri-cotton-sarees-are-suitable-for-all-seasons |date=13 January 2022 )) ''[[Hindustan Times]]'', 5 September 2009.</ref> To provide protection to the weavers practicing this art, the handloom silk saris manufactured in [[Sambalpur]] and [[Berhampur]] (Berhampur Patta) in [[Odisha]] were included in the [[Government of India]]'s [[Geographical Indication]]s (GI) registry.<ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20121107091314/http://www.hindu.com/2009/03/08/stories/2009030850440200.htm "'Sambalpuri saree' and 'Berhampuri pattu' to get GI recognition soon"] ''[[The Hindu]]'', 8 March 2009.</ref><ref>[http://nopr.niscair.res.in/contents/jipr_toc/2006/JIPR%2011%282%29%20%28IPR%20News%29.pdf "Sambalpuri saree set to be protected"] [[NISCAIR]] Online Periodicals Repository, March 2006.</ref>

==The Sambalpuri sari==
((multiple image
| align = left
| image1 = Jaya Jagannatha.jpg
| width1 = 200
| alt1 = 
| caption1 = 
| image2 = 1 icon of Jagannath Jaganath Jagannatha, abstract Krishna of Hinduism.jpg
| width2 = 150
| alt2 = 
| caption2 = 
| footer = Two versions of Jagannath iconography
))
<!-- Deleted image removed: [[File:Sbpsaree.jpeg|thumb|225px|right|Sambalpuri Saptapad sari. The oldest form of sambalpuri tye and dye hand woven textile.]] -->
[[File:Sambalpuri bandha.jpg|right|200px|thumb|Sambalpuri baandha sari]]
[[File:Sambhalpuri Saree (Blue).jpg|thumb|Sambhalpuri Saree]]

The Sambalpuri [[sari]] is made from fabric woven on a [[hand-loom]].  Varieties of the Sambalpuri sari include Sonepuri, Pasapali, Bomkai, Barpali, and Bapta saris, which are in high demand. Most of them have been named after their places of origin and are popularly known as ''Pata''. Paintings on Tussar saris depicting Mathura Vijay, Raslila and Ayodhya Vijay owe their origin to ‘Raghurajpur patta paintings’.
<!-- Deleted image removed: [[File:SoniaSBP.jpg|thumb|225px|right|[[Meera Shankar]], Indian Ambassador to the USA wearing a Sambalpuri sari]] -->

== Fabric and design ==
[[File:Sambhalpuri Saree (Red).jpg|thumb|Sambhalpuri Saree (Red)]]
Baandha fabric is created using a [[tie-dye]] technique. The yarns are tied according to the desired patterns to prevent absorption of dyes, and then dyed.<ref>((Cite web|url=https://www.bsmjsambalpuri.in/2023/02/a-glimpse-at-sambalpuri-saree-of-odisha.html|title = A glimpse at Sambalpuri Saree of Odisha))</ref> The yarns or set of yarns so produced is called 'Baandha'. The unique feature of this form of designing is that the designs are reflected almost identically on both sides of the fabric. Once the fabric is dyed it can never be bleached into another colour.<ref>((Cite web|url=https://nidhishekhawat.hatenablog.com/entry/2020/02/13/170702|title = The History of Indian Sarees: A Legacy for Centuries| date=13 February 2020 ))</ref> 

This versatile technique enables a craftsman to weave colourful designs, patterns and images into a fabric capable of inspiring a thought or conveying a message. Traditionally, craftsmen created Baandhas with images of flora or fauna or with geometrical patterns. More recently,((When|date=February 2011)) new types of Baandha depicting portrait, landscape and flower pods are being designed. 
 
It is believed that this art migrated to Western Odisha along with the Bhulia community who fled Northern India in the year 1192 AD after the fall of the [[Chouhan]] empire at the hands of the [[Mughals]]. Since then and up to the year 1925 it flourished in Western Odisha in a limited number of designs and in vegetable colours and consisted mostly of saris used by the womenfolk of the [[Odisha]]. 

== Development ==
<!-- Deleted image removed: [[File:Sambalpuri women.jpg|thumb|120px|right|A Sambalpuri urban woman wearing a traditional Sambalpuri Bapta Pata sari]] -->
((advert|section|date=February 2020))
Today the Baandha fabric is popularly known by its geographical and cultural name ''Sambalpuri'' owing to the pioneering efforts of Sri Radhashyam Meher, who brought about a radical improvement in the skills of the craftsmen and the quality of the products. Other master craftsmen who contributed to the development of Sambalpuri textiles were [[Padma Shri|Padmashree]] [[Kailash Chandra Meher]], Padmashree [[Kunja Bihari Meher]], ''Padmashree Chatrubhuja Meher'' and ''Padmashree Krutharth Acharya'', Handloom Technologist Mr. Ramkrishna Meher. Sambalpuri textiles today include furnishing materials, dress materials and saris in [[silk]], [[cotton]] and [[mercerised cotton]] in a variety of colours and many different designs. Baandha craftsmen are also masters of the 'extra warp' and 'extra weft' style of designing which can be seen in almost all forms of Baandha textiles.

== Important handloom clusters of Odisha ==
((unreferenced section|date=November 2021))
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! style="width:225px;"|Serial No.
! style="width:225px;"|Category of cluster
! style="width:225px;"|Name of district
! style="width:225px;"|Name of cluster
! style="width:225px;"|Number of clusters
|-
|1 || A || Bargarh || Attabira, Bargarh, Bheden, Barpali, Bijepur, Padampur, Sohela, Bhatli
 || 8
|-
|2 || A || Subarnapur/Sonepur || Birmaharajpur, Sonepur, Ulunda, Binika
 || 4
|-
|3 || A || Boudh || Boudh || 1
|-
|4 || B || Balangir || Patnagarh, Agalpur, Bangamunda || 3
|-
|5 || B || Nuapada || Khariar (Sinapali)
 || 1
|-
|6 || B || Sambalpur || Rengali || 1
|}

==Further reading==
* ''The Orissan art of weaving'', by Kesabachandra Mehera, Publisher: Keshab Chandra Meher, 1995.
* ''Indian ikat textiles'', [[V & A Museum]] Indian Art Series. by Rosemary Crill, Victoria and Albert Museum. V & A Publications, 1998. ((ISBN|1851772421)).

== References ==
((Reflist))

==External links==
((commons category|Sambalpuri sari))
* [https://www.urmiweaves.com/blogs/news/how-sambalpuri-cotton-sarees-are-suitable-for-all-seasons]

((Saree))
((Odia culture))
((Odisha))
((Western Odisha))
((coord |21.515076|83.916572|display=title))

[[Category:Geographical indications in Odisha]]
[[Category:Odia culture]]
[[Category:Figured fabrics]]
[[Category:Handloom sarees]]
[[Category:Bargarh district]]
[[Category:Subarnapur district]]
[[Category:Tourist attractions in Sambalpur]]

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